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Old 06-08-2009, 08:24 AM   #16
UltimateCC
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: College Station, TX/Peekskill, NY
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who sells the body mount skids and control arm skids?

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Old 06-08-2009, 08:45 AM   #17
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimateCC View Post
who sells the body mount skids and control arm skids?
try to read the thread and keep up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pillswoj View Post
I use the Skid Row bolt on Control Arm Mount skids
www.skidplates.com

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Originally Posted by LGriffith View Post
kilby body mount skids
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/

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Originally Posted by armyRN View Post
I had some like these welded on my Jeep http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=JKS-OGS115.
ahhh....http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=JKS-OGS115

And Google helps.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16238_103.htm
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/pics-my-lower-control-arm-skids-i-fabricated-welded-264428/
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:39 AM   #18
Wrangler_91
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Does anybody have a few pics of the flat kind mounted up on a jeep. I saw the tube ones but I am looking for the flat kind.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:42 AM   #19
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by Wrangler_91 View Post
Does anybody have a few pics of the flat kind mounted up on a jeep. I saw the tube ones but I am looking for the flat kind.
JeepMedic control arm skids. Again, you need a bend to offset them, you can't simply weld flat bar to the mount...you'll get control arm interference.



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Old 06-08-2009, 01:50 PM   #20
lupinsea
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Did a little reinforcing of my control arm mounts last summer, both axle brackets AND frame brackets (read about it here). Some Notes:

Front LCA Axle Mount Skids:
It was "easy" to make the skids. I did it out of 3/16" angle iron and a piece of 3" flat stock. It allowed for some adjustment before final welding so it could get it "just right. As I said, easy. But time consuming. If I did it again I'd buy the pre-bent weld-on mini-skids for $25 / pair and be done with it.

If you fab your own, make sure you have ample clearance to allow the control arm to rotate fully. Also, don't pocket the control arm in too much as you might need to remove it down the road.

Finally, drop the skid down far enough on the stock bracket so that it covers the bottom flangs on the control arm when viewed from head-on.



Frame Bracket Weld-on Flange:
Made my own flange out of 1/4" rod bent to shape and welded on. The flange adds stiffness and strength to the 1/8" stock metal brackets. I'm now up to 3/8".

Take care to allow clearance for all bolts and washers. Plenty of clearance on the front frame brackets but I needed to loop part of the 1/4" rod out and around the back of the rear brackets to clear the bolt washer.

The front brackets have some factory facets in them so the control arms angle properly to the front axle. This means the front brackets aren't perfectly flat. After bending the 1/4" rod to shape, you'll need to deform it slightly out of plane to fit the side contours of the bracket. No biggie, takes about 5 min of trial and error per flange (or about 10 min per bracket).









The front frame control arm brackets before "fixing".




Front frame bracket all straightened out + prepped for welding. Tracing out profile on card stock.




Used a bench vice and mini-sledge to bend 1/4" rod to shape. Would recommend 5/16" rod if you can manage.




Rod welded to frame bracket to reinforce it. Basically, adding a flange to
the stock bracket. Now the edge is 3/8" thick instead of 1/8".










Fabbed up my own front axle LCA skids, too.





Even boxed in the rear axle LCA mounts with a simple steel plate. Simply
boxing the stock brackets in significantly strengthens them.
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