TJ Rear Brake Adjustment Problems Solved, Once & For All!! - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 05-09-2010, 02:20 AM   #16
wushaw
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Interesting....never had that problem, brakes always worked as advertised, never had to adjuse them either. Glad you found your problem.

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Unread 07-17-2010, 11:09 PM   #17
baldeagle1
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I realize this is an older thread. But, I am putting together a D35 with 4:10s. Hav also a 8.8 but not the funds to put it together at moment. Anyway, I understand the overtravel spring needs to be turned around. My quest is what would that have to do with how it works? Looks to me like it would do the same thing either way. help me to understand please? Please dont take this as me being a smart a##. Just tring to fiqure it out. Thanks so much
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Unread 07-18-2010, 11:11 AM   #18
Beavx
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when it is installed the way the illustration shows, there is no room for movement. If you install it incorrectly, it will have too much play allowing the adjuster lever to move away from the gear thus coming out of adjustment.

Hope that helps. Good luck with the build.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 04:22 PM   #19
nitecop
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Note if your springs are worn when you flip it around correctly it makes almost no difference as I found out today.
A new adjustor kit with cable and spring and I'm as good as new.

I had this peoblem for years and it is very easy to over look. mine is fixed now.
Thanks to the OP
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Unread 08-08-2010, 06:30 PM   #20
vanillathrilla
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Thanks for the tips. I've been wanting to fix mine since I got it. It's terrible!
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Unread 07-30-2012, 07:36 PM   #21
cowboys666
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I know this is an older thread,gonna revive it...gonna see if it works for me,been having this problem for awhile.
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Unread 07-31-2012, 01:43 PM   #22
ImaginaryFriend
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Since you revived the thread, I'll post up a pic that shows what I believe the OP was trying to explain.

Note the position of the spring, spring plate, and adjuster lever.
img_2308-web.jpg  
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Unread 07-31-2012, 02:21 PM   #23
Diverdown87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldeagle1 View Post
I realize this is an older thread. But, I am putting together a D35 with 4:10s. Hav also a 8.8 but not the funds to put it together at moment. Anyway, I understand the overtravel spring needs to be turned around. My quest is what would that have to do with how it works? Looks to me like it would do the same thing either way. help me to understand please? Please dont take this as me being a smart a##. Just tring to fiqure it out. Thanks so much
Since you are going to have your 35 apart why not do the junkyard disc swap??? You can get all the parts off a ZJ for dirt cheap. Even if you use the calipers as a core for new ones you will never really have to worry about adjusting or dealing with drum brakes again...

No real performance gain more of a luxury item.
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Unread 08-07-2012, 04:58 AM   #24
aussieTJ-06
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had the SAME PROBLEM! got new drums new shoes new springs/kit all bendix F*ck still wouldnt work
BUT when i read "if you can put em on by hand your way out".............. YOU WERE RIGHT! im no fool but after adjusting the star heaps (with my mechanic mates helpin) i decided to pull it all apart again have a good look and yep i was going the wrong way apparently jeeps love being arse about!
but after a good spin and a tweak im back in the game thanks dude!
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Unread 10-22-2012, 09:19 PM   #25
dobeluvr
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thankx for the picture, I was doing the brakes tonight, and the cable was broke on that piece. The captured spring assembly was just lying on the bottom, so I had no idea where to put it. The other end was easy, lol, it was still under the springs at the top. (both sides were the same, so whoever did the brakes in the past had them backwards).
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Unread 10-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #26
DevilDogDoc
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After almost 3 years of messing with the drums on mine, adjusting all the time this is how I solved my issues.
Thanks again Blaine!!!
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Unread 12-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #27
CO_crawler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaginaryFriend View Post
So are you saying this is set up incorrectly?
(not my picture)

I don't see anything in the FSM that says how to set it up one way or another.
Is this the right way to set up the hook? Cheers then, CO
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Unread 12-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #28
ImaginaryFriend
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The correct position is show in my picture above.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 04:26 PM   #29
Gordon-0
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Since this thread pops up at the top of google when searching for brake problems, I think I am going to revive it to clarify and re-iterate some information, as well as post a bit about a problem I recently had.

How to install the adjuster

The adjuster needs to be installed with the end of the spring out, and the plate flush against the outside of the adjuster like this


that's a bit blurry, but in order to accomplish that you need to slide the "hook" of the adjuster into the spring here


like this






you should end up with something like this


then simply place the assembly over this pin and spring as normal




Now on the the problems.

I ordered the complete hardware kit from RockAuto, and installed it, but after driving around a while, there was a grindy noise that wouldn't go away.
I figured it was brake drum adjustment, but no matter how i adjusted them, it never stopped.
Only once i saw this thread did the problem become apparent.

old adjuster plate vs new one


oops


****, this ain't good


pn is 5062


this part will have to be either ground down to work, or simply use your old one, if it is in good shape.

I called RockAuto and they are sending me new drums.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 07:12 PM   #30
redvett94
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Your problem is you relied on generic info from the Haynes or Chiltons manuals. Get the OEM Factory manual for correct info.
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adjustment , brakes , parking brake , rear brake

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