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Unread 08-26-2011, 06:08 PM   #466
gremlinsteve
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im wondering if it is placed or spaced correctly in the shroud for that particular fan. maybe move it towards the radiator some.

steve

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Unread 08-27-2011, 12:23 AM   #467
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Quote:
if only the idle weakness can be eliminated!
Smaller pully, shorter belt?....Just install a thumb throttle onto your gear shifter if you have a standard shifter...If you have an automatic you can use a manual choke cable and drill a hole in the lower dash panel under your steering collumn or something similiar! Below is a link from back in 2005 on the subject....

http://"http://www.jeepforum.com/for...ottle-208108/"

I did mine a little different than most who have done this upgrade. Most take their bicycle shifter cable out into the engine compartment and connect it to the throttle linkage....I brought my cable only to the gas pedal eliminating the need to go out into the engine compartment.

I have a standard shift so, after mounting the shifter to the tranny shifter shaft, I ran the cable through the floor console and to the gas pedal. I drilled a small hole in top of the gas pedal and ran the cable through the hole. I then used a small lead fishing weight and crimped it to the end of the cable to keep it from pulling out of the hole. I ty-wrapped the cable to some piece of steel under the steering collumn to hold it secure. It works like a charm! There's more than one way to skin a cat!

I now have manual control over those times when I need higher rpm's! This is nothing new but a very effective and cheap upgrade!!!
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Unread 08-27-2011, 03:48 AM   #468
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Originally Posted by rangerb3 View Post
Just install a thumb throttle onto your gear shifter if you have a standard shifter...If you have an automatic you can use a manual choke cable and drill a hole in the lower dash panel under your steering collumn or something similiar!

...
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Unread 08-27-2011, 03:59 AM   #469
chmo
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Thanks a lot guys!

But do you think a thumb throttle at the auto shifter is practical in crowded city traffic with long periods of stop and go at the traffic light (more stop than go)?
AND THIS is the overheat scenario for the Dorman/Hayden combo (and A/C on).

In D you are breaking against the higher throttle ... In N you need to adjust down and then go into D again ...

and in the desert I am constantly on the move ... no need there.

pffh ... at least NOT a wife friendly mod...
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Unread 08-27-2011, 04:03 AM   #470
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Originally Posted by gremlinsteve View Post
im wondering if it is placed or spaced correctly in the shroud for that particular fan. maybe move it towards the radiator some.

steve
maybe you are right ... at the moment I have the fan sticking half in the shroud and half out ... with the supplied spacer.
If I remove the spacer it will move the fan about 0.4" ONLY into the shroud and nearer to the rad. It does not look like a big difference. But I will try ...
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Unread 08-27-2011, 08:44 AM   #471
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I have a 2000 Cherokee that get really hot in traffic and sitting at stop lights. I have the fan/clutch and shroud off. What I am trying to decide is should I replace the radiator fan motor because it appears to be bad along with a new clutch, or just go with the explorer 10 blade fan and severe duty fan clutch.

What's everyone's thoughts? Sorry if this has been talked about. I read about 20 pages of the thread then just decided to go ahead and ask the question.

Thanks in advance.
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:16 AM   #472
gremlinsteve
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i think from what you are saying the fan needs to be closer to the radiator. sounds like it still isnt drawing enough air across the core.

any way to build a spacer that will move it to within an inch of the core or less?

steve
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:29 AM   #473
chmo
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Originally Posted by gremlinsteve View Post
i think from what you are saying the fan needs to be closer to the radiator. sounds like it still isnt drawing enough air across the core.

any way to build a spacer that will move it to within an inch of the core or less?

steve
actually any spacer would move the fan further away from the core!
If I need to get closer then I have to remove any spacer. A more extreme mod would be a longer axle ... but thats just not right in my eyes. One guy on this thread had a clutch/fan combo which positioned the whole fan inside the shroud ... with worse results! (more noise and less cooling)
I think if removing the 0.4" spacer is not enough (maybe its even worse) then the only way would be a smaller fan pulley ...
with stock fan and clutch : hotter engine after pushing it hard in the dunes but fine while idling
with new clutch/fan : the more I push it the cooler the water temps ... but creeping temps while idling
the visco clutches are more complex than I thought
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:33 AM   #474
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gotcha. im thinking in reverse. a smaller water pump pully is going to slow the water pump down. it prolly wont help. might need to go bigger to speed it up.

alot of work either way to get it to work.

steve
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #475
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Originally Posted by razorvines View Post
I have a 2000 Cherokee that get really hot in traffic and sitting at stop lights. I have the fan/clutch and shroud off. What I am trying to decide is should I replace the radiator fan motor because it appears to be bad along with a new clutch, or just go with the explorer 10 blade fan and severe duty fan clutch.

What's everyone's thoughts? Sorry if this has been talked about. I read about 20 pages of the thread then just decided to go ahead and ask the question.

Thanks in advance.
well ... first I would put that shroud back on. I have learned here and in other threads that the shroud is integral part for the efficiency of the fan/cooling ... even the position of fan to shroud to core is important and a complex dependency
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:38 AM   #476
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Originally Posted by gremlinsteve View Post
gotcha. im thinking in reverse. a smaller water pump pully is going to slow the water pump down. it prolly wont help. might need to go bigger to speed it up.

alot of work either way to get it to work.

steve
in the opposite ... a smaller pulley will rev more (but with a smaller lever ... so too small and you have belt slip/squeal)! the serpentine belt is driven by the crank pulley!
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:40 AM   #477
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well ... first I would put that shroud back on. I have learned here and in other threads that the shroud is integral part for the efficiency of the fan/cooling ... even the position of fan to shroud to core is important and a complex dependency
No I just had the shroud off to take the electric fan off since it wasn't working. I plan to put it back on once I get all my parts, because I may even put a new radiator on while I have everything off. Just trying to decide whether I should put a new electric fan motor on or just go with the explorer fan on the new fan clutch.
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:50 AM   #478
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The XJ Cherokee fan set up is completly different than the TJ. The Ford Fan and clutch won't fit on the XJ since the engine driven fan is off to the side on those.

As for fan and shroud. You want the fan sticking 1/2 way out of the shroud. If it's too close to the Radiator it will create turbulance and won't move air as designed.

I'm still running the used 10 blade fan I got from the junkyard and the New clutch I got from O'Riley's and I'm very pleased with the AC and engine cooling in our 110 deg heat we have had this week.
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Unread 08-27-2011, 11:52 AM   #479
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Originally Posted by razorvines View Post
No I just had the shroud off to take the electric fan off since it wasn't working. I plan to put it back on once I get all my parts, because I may even put a new radiator on while I have everything off. Just trying to decide whether I should put a new electric fan motor on or just go with the explorer fan on the new fan clutch.
1. the ford fan/clutch is less efficient than stock for idling rpms ... at least for me and Unlimited04
(EDIT: the Hayden 2793 SD clutch and the Dorman 9 blade fan)
2. if you know that your additional e-fan has a bad motor ... I would fix that in any case
3. if you do not have rising temps under load while wheeling I would stick with the stock clutch/fan
(if you have an auto ... there are some more improvements you can do ... but all not idling relevant)
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Unread 08-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #480
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chris142: you have a manual right?

hmmm ... just wondering if the additional thermal load through my built in tranny oil cooler is making the difference ...
and one more thing: the rads in the manuals do not have the auto tranny oil cooler in the lower part, right?! empty space? more water capacity? or unused tranny cooler?
Unlimited04 has the 42RLE too ... what a coincidence
(EDIT: Best4x4 has an auto as well ... hmm ... bypassed rad? aux tranny cooler? where?)

I have the Derale 13960 lying around waiting to get into action .
It should have enough cooling capacity (30000 GVW) to completely bypass my rad ... and remove my aux tranny cooler (inline after rad) completely from the front ... wondering if it would make THAT difference for the stupid idling scenario!?
(The Derale was originally bought as a precaution for my "mo paua" plans in front of my auto ... postponed and changed)
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