TJ Lift mods - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-21-2017, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
thomas323tj
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TJ Lift mods

I have a 2006 TJ SE 4.0L L6... I am going to put a 4.5 Rubicon express lift on with monotube shocks and going to run 35s

1. What kind of modifications do I need to run this lift with 35s?

2. What kind of mods are recommended to effectively run this build?

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post #2 of 9 Old 08-21-2017, 11:07 PM
frenchy206
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The first lift I ever put on a Jeep was a Rubicon Express. The only way the ride would have been harsher is if I had welded the springs and removed the tires.

That being said, a lot is needed and a lot is highly recommended for a 4.5" lift.

The cheapest and pointless way to make it work, is to drop the transfer case an inch or 2, so your driveshaft doesn't bind. The proper way is to get a slip yoke eliminator and a new drive shaft.

You should get adjustable control arms, adjustable track bar, upgraded steering (Currie would be my recommendation), upgraded brakes, correct length bump stops.

I'm probably missing something, but that is most of it.

03 TJ Rubicon
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-21-2017, 11:15 PM
pmcjeep
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Are you stuck on the re lifts? Also what rear axle do you have and are you planning on upgrading the steering and brakes for the 35s?

01 tj 4.0,bds springs,ROKMEN arms, ecgs 8.8 and hp30 both locked with 4.88s,35in STTs,Smittybilt bumpers,8k winch,hylined MCE flatties,TKHfab rocksliders,and lots more to come!
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 01:19 AM
TheBoogieman
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"Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.
A power steering system cooler is a great add on.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like BLACK MAGIC.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above".
Never Monday.
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Quote:
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Why also would he need a rare as hen's teeth Dana 44 out of another TJ which will eventually lead to him swapping in a POS 8.8 because he can't find one?
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomas323tj View Post
I have a 2006 TJ SE 4.0L L6.
SE models are all 4 cylinders.

Correction; except 05-06 with optional 4.0L.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Why also would he need a rare as hen's teeth Dana 44 out of another TJ which will eventually lead to him swapping in a POS 8.8 because he can't find one?
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 08:01 AM
biffgnar
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Step one, put down the credit card. Step two, use JF search function and start reading. I would not run that lift and there is a lot involved in running 35s. You need to understand a lot more before you start down a path that can be long, expensive and if not done right produce poor results.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 08:22 AM
Ironhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
SE models are all 4 cylinders.
my 05 SE was a 4.0L. i checked the vin and it was an SE, then I had the salesman pop the hood and take a pic before i drove to look at it.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
my 05 SE was a 4.0L. i checked the vin and it was an SE, then I had the salesman pop the hood and take a pic before i drove to look at it.
I learned something new.

SE - 1997-2006
* 2.5L I-4 engine 1997-2002
* 2.4L I-4 engine 2003-2006
* Optional 4.0L I-6 for 2005-2006 models
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Why also would he need a rare as hen's teeth Dana 44 out of another TJ which will eventually lead to him swapping in a POS 8.8 because he can't find one?
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-22-2017, 08:45 AM
Ross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
I learned something new.

SE - 1997-2006
* 2.5L I-4 engine 1997-2002
* 2.4L I-4 engine 2003-2006
* Optional 4.0L I-6 for 2005-2006 models


What about the Dana 44?

01 TJ,33X12.5Flaken WP ATs,Winch, ARBs F&R, belly up, some armor,4.0,5spd
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