tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 99 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-18-2013, 06:47 PM   #1471
T-Jay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

I say that because the tire is rubbing the rear of the wheelwell, and it shouldn't.

You need to cycle the suspension...full bump, full droop, full flex, on both sides, with both axles, with the springs removed.
Ah-ha! That makes sense. I'll go adjust my lowers out a touch this afternoon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
The cover and track bar should have NO contact. But that assumes you have your setup optimized with a lower profile diff cover and a track bar that clears stuff well. You've got a good track bar, just the wrong diff cover...unless you install enough bumpstop extension to keep stuff from smashing together.

So you disagree with the following statements?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy
It might kiss the cover but nothing to worry about. At full articulation you aren't going anywhere so if it hits no big deal. Same as when it is fully compresses and it makes contact. Just don't push the axle forward. I've seen where people think they can stretch the wheel base by pushing the front out and finding out that doesn't work to good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine
If you go read a lot of the threads on contact issues, we've told a lot of them that pushing the axle that far forward doesn't do much for them except complicate their life with interference issues.

If it weren't for the internet making wheelbase increases one of the big bragging rights categories, most would just pull the axle back a bit and go on. Several of them are in this thread.
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Unread 01-18-2013, 07:02 PM   #1472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
So you disagree with the following statements?
I disagree with your total disregard for the context, because Blaine and Gerald are talking about pushing the axle forward to gain wheelbase, and they're talking with respect to the stock diff cover, not that monstrosity you have.

Pretty much all the cases outlining clearance issues in this thread involve using stock length control arms.

Stock control arms + Riddler + Currie TJS/TJJ:



Here's the thread where we've already discussed this:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bu...08/index2.html
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Unread 01-18-2013, 07:18 PM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
What I disagree with your total disregard for the context, because Blaine and Gerald are talking about pushing the axle forward to gain wheelbase, and they're talking with respect to the stock diff cover, not that monstrosity you have.
I previously described my exact set-up including the dif cover to Gerald via email and his reply in so many words was "stop reading stuff on the Internet and don't worry about it. It will work fine" I don't feel I'm disregarding anything I'm just trying to understand why there seems to be a disagreement in my specific case.

You say there should be no contact between the TB and dif cover. They say a little contact is ok.

You say the Riddler dif cover will not fit. They say it will.

I don't mean any hard feeling here. Just trying to figure out what gives.

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Unread 01-18-2013, 07:30 PM   #1474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
I previously described my exact set-up including the dif cover to Gerald via email and his reply in so many words was "stop reading stuff on the Internet and don't worry about it. It will work fine" I don't feel I'm disregarding anything I'm just trying to understand why there seems to be a disagreement in my specific case.

You say there should be no contact between the TB and dif cover. They say a little contact is ok.

You say the Riddler dif cover will not fit. They say it will.

I don't mean any hard feeling here. Just trying to figure out what gives.

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Well, then dispense with the internet speculation and guessing.

Push the axle to full bump and find out for yourself. Post pictures.
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Unread 01-18-2013, 07:35 PM   #1475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

Well, then dispense with the internet speculation and guessing.

Push the axle to full bump and find out for yourself. Post pictures.
Haha

Will do.

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Unread 01-19-2013, 07:52 AM   #1476
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riddler cover, stock control arms, no track bar, no added bumpstop, full compression.

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Unread 01-21-2013, 02:07 AM   #1477
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BTW, what all needs to me disconnected for the droop test. I don't really need to remove the drive shaft an pull the springs like this guy do I? I'm assuming just the sway bar but I'm not sure.
image-3229382015.jpg

I won't have time for the full bump test till next week, but I did take it wheeling yesterday (very gently at first). After the first couple semi hard drop off I checked the dif cover and TB for any signs of interference. Nothing! I progressively went harder and harder throughout the day and my TB never touch the cover. By the end of the day I had wheeled the Jeep harder than I normally would and there seems to be no issues with my set up. Here's a shot of it after the carnage. You can see bite marks on the tie rod, axle and bottom face of the dif cover from the rocks.image-2657327197.jpg
image-164993631.jpg
image-2549311737.jpg
image-3157620003.jpg

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Unread 01-21-2013, 08:08 AM   #1478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
BTW, what all needs to me disconnected for the droop test. I don't really need to remove the drive shaft an pull the springs like this guy do I? I'm assuming just the sway bar but I'm not sure.
Disconnect the sway bar. Remove the jounce bumper and bumpstop cup. You'll need to unhook the shocks, but set them back in place after you get the springs out. Remove the springs, and reinstall the bumpstop cup. Leave the jounce bumper out.

You need to find full bump. Push the axle up with a floor jack until the bumpstop cup is touching the spring pad.

You may find the shocks bottoming out first, preventing diff cover/track bar contact. Don't be happy yet, bottoming out the shocks is bad too. Whatever the uptravel limiting factor is, you need to add enough bumpstop extension to prevent contact/damage.

When you find the uptravel limiting factor, measure the distance between the bumpstop cup and the spring pad with a tape measure.

Post pictures.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 11:18 AM   #1479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

Disconnect the sway bar. Remove the jounce bumper and bumpstop cup. You'll need to unhook the shocks, but set them back in place after you get the springs out. Remove the springs, and reinstall the bumpstop cup. Leave the jounce bumper out.

Post pictures.
Bare with me here buddy I'm still pretty new to this. I have to do this^^ for the droop test, or the bump test?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
Push the axle up with a floor jack until the bumpstop cup is touching the spring pad.
Post pictures.
Push the axle up? I was under the impression that I just had to lift the Jeep up, pull the springs disconnect the shocks and sway bar links and rest it back down on all 4s at which point the bump stops would/should be sitting on the lower spring pads. Is there a step-by-step for dummies on the web someplace showing how this is done?

Thanks for the reply by the way.

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Unread 01-21-2013, 11:25 AM   #1480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Push the axle up?
Support the Jeep from the frame like you're installing a lift.

Use a floor jack and do this:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/un...l#post11060714
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Unread 01-21-2013, 11:27 AM   #1481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Push the axle up? I was under the impression that I just had to lift the Jeep up, pull the springs disconnect the shocks and sway bar links and rest it back down on all 4s at which point the bump stops would/should be sitting on the lower spring pads.
In my opinion, it's easier to support the Jeep by the frame on jackstands, then disconnect everything, then cycle the axle up & down since it's already supported.
You'll find that the axle will only lower so far, your 4 control arms & track bar will bind at a certain point, due to them all having a range of travel. That's your full droop. You'll find that the axle will only raise so far because something hits something, in your case, the first thing to hit is likely the riddler cover meeting the bottom of the track bar.
You want enough bumpstop to prevent anything from hitting, similiarly, you want some form of a strap to catch the axle right before full droop.
What many don't realize is that their shocks are performing the function of either the bumpstop or the limiting strap. That's not good for them.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 11:34 AM   #1482
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Ok got it. Damn you guys are good.

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Unread 01-21-2013, 12:16 PM   #1483
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T-Jay, you're not fully understanding what the goals are for doing this, otherwise you wouldn't need to ask what to remove. The whole point of cycling the axle is to put it into different scenarios to determine where interference will happen. You can't do this with the springs between the axle and frame so those obviously have to go. If you're set on keeping the current shocks and shock mounts, then those need to be there since the axle can't go any higher or lower than the shocks will allow. Since the tires against the fenders are an interference scenario, those also need to be on. The sway bar needs to be disconnected so the axle can move freely. Put jack stands behind the front LCA mounts and in front of the rear LCA mounts to support the rig. Pull the springs and sway bar and bolt the shocks and tires back up. Now you can freely cycle the axle without moving the frame....that will allow you to see and fix any interference areas between the track bar, diff, tire, fender, etc. Adjust the bump stops to prevent those things from happening or grind, cut to prevent it. Either way, adjust the bump stops accordingly once you've determined where your first interference point is.
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Unread 01-21-2013, 06:08 PM   #1484
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It's all clear as day now. Thanks again guys for taking the time to break it down for me. Much appreciated.

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Unread 01-28-2013, 07:24 PM   #1485
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On a daily driver, Constantly rubbing the bar is what ruins the rod ends and causes bushing failure as well as loosening jam nuts and frame end bolts, not to mention the occasional busted rod ends.

I get loads of jeeps people are in love with but won't drive anymore and sell for fear of being pulled over for duii when when the real problem is suspension and steering. A loose track bar bushing can cause you to spend money on things that won't solve any problems, just cost more money. Insufficient bumpstops and "heavy duty" diff covers tend to be problems for some reason...... nothin pisses me off more than hearing excuses like "its a jeep" or "every jeep is different"
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