either way you need to push the axles to full bump and look for yourself.
the best way to summarize this thread:
Don't buy a big fat aftermarket diff cover. Stick with the stock diff cover and add a bolt-on skid, or get a Barnett diff cover.
Track bar for the front: JKS gen II, Currie TJS or TJJ are the best track bars. Currie is stronger.
Track bar for the rear: Currie's new design bend is supposedly the best option currently. Regardless of track bar, no relocation bracket means the track bar can bind on the stock closed top bracket. With a relocation bracket, the bracket can hit underside of tub and fuel lines.
No matter what you choose, you need to pull the springs out, remove the jounce bumper, and push the axle to full bump to determine your bumpstop extension requirement.
clearance wise, is there any difference between the frong JKS gen II vs Currie TJS or TTJ ?
Once again, what matters is what happens with your track bar at full bump. Lift height doesn't tell you much of anything useful.
I don't doubt that what I'm about to ask has not been answered at some point in one of the hundreds of previous posts in this thread. And I don't doubt that there is in fact a perfectly logical answer, but here goes.
What real world off road situation are you simulating with this "full bump" test?
In other words, what's the idea behind removing coil springs which would otherwise be installed during real world flexing situations? What's the point of checking for clearance at a flex angle beyond that which a (fully assembled) suspension system is even capable of reaching. Why is it not enough to simply just disconnect the sway bar links and creep across a deep trench diagonally? If the entire weight of the Jeep is balanced 50/50 on two diagonally opposed wheels to the point of seesawing back and forth, and there are no rubbing/binding issues, isn't that enough of a clearance test? What am I missing here?
BTW, I'm finally going out this weekend with my new Currie adjustable track bar
-D30 w/Riddler cover
-Currie adj. TB (new to the mix)
-No TB drop bracket (new to the mix)
-Stock Pittman arm (new to the mix)
-Currie standard length adj. control arms.
I'm not sure what my bump stop length is off hand. But I know it's a hair too short. When I cut the wheel all the way left or right during flex the outside edge of my front tires just lightly kisses the back face of the wheel well. Like so:
My current steering set up:
My current bumpstop configuration (TB drop bracket is now gone):
A perfect example of when this is useful is when going over whoops, or heavy washboards and having both springs compressed at the same time. It isn't about cycling one wheel at a time, rather both at the same time.
Looking at your pictures I don't see any bumpstop extension. You are likely bottoming your shocks out, which is acting like bumpstop extension. Not a good thing for the shock.
You seem to still be missing the point. Which is both front springs compressing at the same time. Not opposing axles!
OHHHHH! I thought "full bump" meant....OHHHHH! God what a dumb ash I feel like. I get it now. I could swear I've seen/read that "full bump was tested with the suspension articulated. But it makes perfect sense to me now. The suspension would obviously stuff further up on a hard landing than it would if I were testing it be creeping over rocks and logs diagonally.
So "full bump" is archived when sitting on both bump stops across the axle at the same time.
and as I think you figured out by now, full bump is BOTH sides fully compressed. full flex is ONE side fully compressed, the opposite side fully DROOPED. That is with respect to each individual axle.
btw, due to the tire rub, your axle looks to need to move forward a bit, by adjusting the lowers out. The Riddler diff cover will likely need to be removed. IIRC from the tests mudb8 did in this thread, it needs about 3.5" bumpstop extension to keep it off that Currie track bar. I had that cover, and it caused massive interference issues (pics in this thread). Your pictures shows zero bumpstop extension, so the only thing stopping uptravel is diff cover vs track bar and bottoming out the shocks.
According to Mr. Blaine and Gerald from Savvy there should only be minor contact between the cover and TB if any. I'm looking forward to finding out this weekend once and for all.
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I say that because the tire is rubbing the rear of the wheelwell, and it shouldn't.
You need to cycle the suspension...full bump, full droop, full flex, on both sides, with both axles, with the springs removed.
The cover and track bar should have NO contact. But that assumes you have your setup optimized with a lower profile diff cover and a track bar that clears stuff well. You've got a good track bar, just the wrong diff cover...unless you install enough bumpstop extension to keep stuff from smashing together.