tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 95 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 12-24-2012, 11:48 AM   #1411
WKdeuce
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edit. hahaha, that picture is awesome. yea I get what you're saying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Yep, just cut the entire top off flush though(you wont have it wrapping the inside portion of the frame anymore). Weld it back to the bottom of the frame. If you want to reinforce the part, take some quarter inch plate stock and weld that to the original mount and inside portion of the frame.

When your done, the track bar mount bolt should be centered under the frame rail and should be at LEAST a half inch higher up to the bottom of the frame as well. .75" might be better. It all depends on how thick the new bushing end is on the new trackbar compared to the old factory one. Catch what I am saying?
Yeah, but I'm going to just get a new piece of metal to start with. Once I have the frame side bracket in hand, I'll be able to tell if it will work or need modified itself.
I had enough fun with that stock bracket yesterday, it's in the recycle pile.



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Unread 12-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #1412
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BTW, you don't really need to move it forward on the frame, you just need to move it so the mounting bolt is centered UNDER the frame rail and cut it off flat so its sits up higher closer to it( You could probably cheat it like a half inch forward possibly). Then a bar like the Currie TJS will work perfectly, and you will be able to reduce or eliminate the need to bumpstab due to the TB frame end hitting the diff cover. Win win situation.
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Unread 12-24-2012, 12:00 PM   #1413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
edit. hahaha, that picture is awesome. yea I get what you're saying.



Yeah, but I'm going to just get a new piece of metal to start with. Once I have the frame side bracket in hand, I'll be able to tell if it will work or need modified itself.
I had enough fun with that stock bracket yesterday, it's in the recycle pile.

Yeah, I edited above to try and explain better. WHat you can do is tack weld the original mount on, then check for clearances but jamming the axle up. But you should find the single shear using the original mount modded and reinforced now fits and works perfectly with a larger JJ style end, or a new double sheer mount(centered in same location as the single shear mount)will work perfectly as well.

The goal that needs to be accomplished either way is to have the frame pivot end on the trackbar CENTERED UNDER the frame rail vs. on the inside edge as it comes from the factory, and up closer to the rail itself.

How far UP to raise the mount? Well for example.....with stock single shear mount. If your new Trackbar has say a frame end mount that's say 1" thicker than the stock one, you would make sure the mount is a half inch higher up(plus about an 1/8" of an inch extra since your moving it over farther towards the spring bucket). This way your garenteeing that the steering geometry stays perfectly intack and in line with the pitman arm. And again, you really shouldn't have to move the mount forward or backwards.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 01:17 PM   #1414
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Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
Thanks, I made the cut yesterday afternoon.
I'm going to try my luck with this, and document the process for critique/input in this thread so as not to further take this one off track.

They really stuck that thing on there...

So any update on this?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 01:18 PM   #1415
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Also to the experts on this issue:

What are the negative effects of using a drop pitman arm TOGETHER with a new frame side trackbar bracket that lowers the trackbar to keep in line with the pitman arm?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #1416
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
So any update on this?
Yea, I just got a bunch of parts in the mail.
I need to figure out where to land the track bar.
Rather than completely derail this thread, I've been seeking help here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...k-bar-1453720/
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Unread 01-08-2013, 01:43 PM   #1417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Also to the experts on this issue:

What are the negative effects of using a drop pitman arm TOGETHER with a new frame side trackbar bracket that lowers the trackbar to keep in line with the pitman arm?
Clearance with the diff. Isn't that kind of obvious?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 01:48 PM   #1418
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Clearance with the diff. Isn't that kind of obvious?
I can see that being an issue if the trackbar bracket is offset to the inside of the framerail like with the stock TB bracket, but is clearance still an issue when the TB bracket is moved towards the springbucket centered UNDER the framerail? Not in front of a Jeep which is why Im asking.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 02:18 PM   #1419
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I'd be more concerned with clearance of the actual bar itself rather than the mount.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 02:37 PM   #1420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
I can see that being an issue if the trackbar bracket is offset to the inside of the framerail like with the stock TB bracket, but is clearance still an issue when the TB bracket is moved towards the springbucket centered UNDER the framerail? Not in front of a Jeep which is why Im asking.
the clearance issues not only arise with the diff but the tie-rod. the stock single shear mounting face will actually pass between the diff housing and the tie-rod at full bump.

unless you're a wizard with fabrication, there isn't enough room to slide a bolt long enough to fit a 2.5" JJ in between the diff and tie-rod...so something either hits the diff or the tie-rod, unless you're running enough lift to need enough bumpstop to keep them far enough part.

that's why you'll see fab guys using heims or a 2" JJ max on the frame end. Add up the clearances needed for double shear...you need ~2" for width of joint (or whatever), 2 x 1/4" for the mount and about 1/2-3/4" for bolt & nut head on each end. That means you'll need around a 4"-4.5" long bolt.

Assuming you can thread a needle with the fabbed mount location, and you never have to adjust axle position, you end up needing a minimum of ~4" of clearance between the tie-rod and the diff housing below the frame. Call it 5" to be realistic. It's not impossible to make it work, plenty have done it, but you gotta be a wizard with fab...like the mrblaine & mudb8 guys.

Now, go measure the clearance between your tie-rod and the diff housing and you'll see why the factory and most manufacturers stick with the single shear setup. The factory position of the single shear mount can't really move too much unless you're changing something else...like tie-rod, knuckles, axle position or something....but hey, maybe a 1/2" or something changes things just enough. It's a tight freakin' squeeze in there at full bump. You'll see people also go the other direction...a flat pitman arm and a double shear mount that's really close to the frame. Either way, I say if you're hacking it off to move it...go double shear.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 03:03 PM   #1421
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the clearance issues not only arise with the diff but the tie-rod. the stock single shear mounting face will actually pass between the diff housing and the tie-rod at full bump.

unless you're a wizard with fabrication, there isn't enough room to slide a bolt long enough to fit a 2.5" JJ in between the diff and tie-rod...so something either hits the diff or the tie-rod, unless you're running enough lift to need enough bumpstop to keep them far enough part.

that's why you'll see fab guys using heims or a 2" JJ max on the frame end. Add up the clearances needed for double shear...you need ~2" for width of joint (or whatever), 2 x 1/4" for the mount and about 1/2-3/4" for bolt & nut head on each end. That means you'll need around a 4"-4.5" long bolt.

Assuming you can thread a needle with the fabbed mount location, and you never have to adjust axle position, you end up needing a minimum of ~4" of clearance between the tie-rod and the diff housing below the frame. Call it 5" to be realistic. It's not impossible to make it work, plenty have done it, but you gotta be a wizard with fab...like the mrblaine & mudb8 guys.

Now, go measure the clearance between your tie-rod and the diff housing and you'll see why the factory and most manufacturers stick with the single shear setup. The factory position of the single shear mount can't really move too much unless you're changing something else...like tie-rod, knuckles, axle position or something....but hey, maybe a 1/2" or something changes things just enough. It's a tight freakin' squeeze in there at full bump. You'll see people also go the other direction...a flat pitman arm and a double shear mount that's really close to the frame. Either way, I say if you're hacking it off to move it...go double shear.
Well see that's what Im looking at doing. Removing the factory single shear TB mount, and installing a double sheer that's centered directly under the framerail(and possibly dropping it down in conjunction with a drop pitman)to help gain clearance between the diff housing and trackbar itself if this is possible so as to keep the trackbar as flat as possible at the chosen lift height I use while keeping bumpstop addition to a bare minimum if at all. And even if I don't drop the trackbar mounting point lower with a drop pitman arm, Im still going to go with a double sheer TB mount and move it directly under the framerail to gain clearance in relationship to the diff housing.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:01 PM   #1422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Well see that's what Im looking at doing. Removing the factory single shear TB mount, and installing a double sheer that's centered directly under the framerail(and possibly dropping it down in conjunction with a drop pitman)to help gain clearance between the diff housing and trackbar itself if this is possible so as to keep the trackbar as flat as possible at the chosen lift height I use while keeping bumpstop addition to a bare minimum if at all. And even if I don't drop the trackbar mounting point lower with a drop pitman arm, Im still going to go with a double sheer TB mount and move it directly under the framerail to gain clearance in relationship to the diff housing.
you're not seeing what i'm saying. you can't drop it down more than it is because there isn't enough clearance to fit a big enough bolt sideways between the tie-rod and the diff. With a stock pitman arm it may work with heim end, or maybe a 2" JJ. The best bet is to move the double shear mount closer to the frame and make pitman arm flatter, not dropped.


that's pcoplin's from here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ne...n-arm-1360414/

For sharts and gargles, take a tape measure and measure the perpendicular distance between the tie-rod and the housing of the diff. You're looking for around 4.5-5" to make it work with a 2" JJ.

Looking up from under the Jeep, this red square is about the window size you have to fit a JJ/heim or whatever, double shear bracket & mounting hardware. Go measure yours and you'll see how much space you have to play with.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:17 PM   #1423
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Ah ok, gotcha now.............
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:44 PM   #1424
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I could be wrong, but wouldn't a stock wagoneer pitman arm be perfect for that. IIRC they were almost flat. A cj7 arm is flat. Can't remenber length differences though.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #1425
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OK so here is another question: Does the Currie 9120 TJS trackbar use a 2.5" JJ on the frame mount(single sheer) end? If so, it should fit into this bracket here? : http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/391

What Im thinking of doing is buying the Clayton double sheer TB bracket which keeps the same position as stock basically(but double sheer instead). Then take the Currie TB, carefully cut off the frame end JJ and reweld/mount 90 degrees into double sheer alignment. Thoughts on this?
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