tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 80 - JeepForum.com

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post #1186 of 1784 Old 06-16-2012, 05:26 AM
Muddeprived
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -sean- View Post
After market diff covers blow!

These work nicely, $59 each.

On my old TJ, I took a stock diff cover and cut it in half and bolted it on front of the.........stock diff cover. All i needed to do was get slightly longer bolts and small washers to put between the two covers. Looked just like that, except no holes. Cheap and did the job. I did make a drain hole at the bottom though.


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post #1187 of 1784 Old 06-16-2012, 06:27 AM
Gary2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -sean- View Post
^^^this... sums up this entire thread.

Geometry wise, the stock TB is by far the best available for a TJ using stock style steering.
What changes with the geometry wth the JKS ?
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post #1188 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 07:44 AM
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So I was thinking about my trackbar conundrum this weekend and looking at some other rigs.....

I am also thinking about just buying a trackbar that moves the bracket ... is there a disadvantage to say the RockKrawler track bar kit or Rubi Express?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16189_1110.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_600.htm
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post #1189 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
So I was thinking about my trackbar conundrum this weekend and looking at some other rigs.....

I am also thinking about just buying a trackbar that moves the bracket ... is there a disadvantage to say the RockKrawler track bar kit or Rubi Express?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16189_1110.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_600.htm
tie-rod....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re...5/#post5127372

also needs drop pitman arm.

you gotta understand at stock height/low lift levels, the cast bracket mounting face will actually dip below or even with the straight tie-rod at full bump. so basically anything that extends in front of & significantly below the stock cast bracket can hit the tie-rod.
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post #1190 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 08:30 AM
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Well it seems like the conclusion for him was that he was missing a bumpstop? I'll have to read later when I have more time.

The kits seem like they provide better flex because of the two horizontal joints instead of one? I guess the disadvantage is that it's dropping the mounting point for the trackbar lower than the factory point.

Where I am at-
1- Keep currie/savvy bar and hope factory style diff cover with lower skid solves contact issues
2- RK or other trackbar kit and keep my diff cover

Either way I need a steering upgrade at some point, so I am trying to work within something that doesn't contact there. I know that the RK trackbar kit with the Savvy/Currie steering works.
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post #1191 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 08:56 AM
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I installed my dpgoffroad ultimate kit last week. Ad my JKS track bar is hitting the diff cover over mini speed bumps..... You can all say you told me so.

I've got the bumpstops in... And I've got a stock D30. I can't wait until I get a bumper and winch.... For now I'll take speedbumps sideways.
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post #1192 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post

The kits seem like they provide better flex because of the two horizontal joints instead of one? I guess the disadvantage is that it's dropping the mounting point for the trackbar lower than the factory point.

Where I am at-
1- Keep currie/savvy bar and hope factory style diff cover with lower skid solves contact issues
2- RK or other trackbar kit and keep my diff cover
I can't think of a case where the frame drop for the track bar will give you more travel. You'll need 2" more bump stop over stock to account for the drop.

One argument for the drop kits is strengthening the frame side mount. I think this can be accomplished with a 5/8" bolt and a brace like this:




Here's a good pic (from this thread) that shows why a drop reduces travel. Even if you manage to clear the diff by moving the track bar mount slightly forward, you're going to hit the tie rod.


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post #1193 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
Well it seems like the conclusion for him was that he was missing a bumpstop? I'll have to read later when I have more time.
he also had 4.5" lift & longer shocks than you, and even after installing the stock cup again with 2" of bumpstop over stock, there was still interference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
The kits seem like they provide better flex because of the two horizontal joints instead of one?
"better flex" isn't necessarily the right word. The double shear will basically eliminate the binding seen with single shear in droop.

If you really want to go double shear on a low lift, you need to cut the stock mount off, or significantly modify it, and fabricate your own custom bent track bar.

Mudb8 did that for CB3's rig. The write-up is in this thread (post #767).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
Where I am at-
1- Keep currie/savvy bar and hope factory style diff cover with lower skid solves contact issues
no hope involved. pull the springs & jounce bumpers out. push the axle to full bump. you'll probably need 2" bumpstop extensions, but testing it is the only way you're going to know for sure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
2- RK or other trackbar kit and keep my diff cover
If you want a drop pitman arm & drop track bar bracket with 3-4" of bumpstop extension on a 2" lift, go for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
Either way I need a steering upgrade at some point, so I am trying to work within something that doesn't contact there. I know that the RK trackbar kit with the Savvy/Currie steering works.
How do you know? For reference, post pictures at full bump with this combination, with the required bumpstop extension.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
and that V8 ZJ tie-rod, combined with a heavily modified diff cover & 1.375" bumpstop extension, is the only reason that track bar clears - it will hit a straight tie-rod without ~2" bumpstop extension. mudb8 outlined that in this thread as well, right here (post #807)
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post #1194 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 10:32 AM
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Thanks, I appreciate the thought out replies. Your links aren't working for me though as I think they are supposed to go to the posts showing the custom double shears done in this thread so far (prolly because we have different # of posts per page). Or they were just sarcastic links, I can't tell. Either way the post is #1106 for tomster.

CB3's rig with pics as well- http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ye...-soft-1160829/


Ugh on the more required bumpstop, loosing that up-travel sucks. Seems like the custom mount is the best long term solution if you want to stay low.
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post #1195 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 10:54 AM
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I think they are supposed to go to the posts
they are permalinks, and should have no bearing on the number of posts displayed per page. the permalink is at the top right of each post in every thread. maybe your browser is blocking something?
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post #1196 of 1784 Old 06-25-2012, 11:16 AM
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When I click on the links, I go to the same page I am on now.

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post #1197 of 1784 Old 07-02-2012, 05:43 AM
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Currie TJS trackbar, front axle (d30) rotated by both upper and lower CAs to 7 degree caster, V8 ZJ tie rod, 1" bumpstops. Does not hit, but the axle looks shifted about 3/8" backwards when at full bump. I guess that's because of my caster adjustments.
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post #1198 of 1784 Old 07-02-2012, 07:07 AM
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post #1199 of 1784 Old 07-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glook
Currie TJS trackbar, front axle (d30) rotated by both upper and lower CAs to 7 degree caster, V8 ZJ tie rod, 1" bumpstops. Does not hit, but the axle looks shifted about 3/8" backwards when at full bump. I guess that's because of my caster adjustments.
So it seems that with adjustable CA's this bar might work? Should the bumps be more centered at full stuff, I feel like that'd make it super close!
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post #1200 of 1784 Old 07-02-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MikalCarbine View Post
So it seems that with adjustable CA's this bar might work? Should the bumps be more centered at full stuff, I feel like that'd make it super close!
Well, it did work for me. I don't think the bumpstop cups should be centered with non-stock CA lengths. When I rotated the axle I tried not to change the wheelbase.

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