tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 55 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-02-2011, 09:31 AM   #811
bgmadmxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
O... are those new OME sport shocks bottomed out in your pic? what is the compressed length on them?
I was told they had the same compressed/extended lengths as the standard shocks however I didnt think about measuring them before installation. As the axle was on the bumpstop I did have a good amount of compression still left.

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Unread 02-02-2011, 09:58 AM   #812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Chung View Post
Pinion angle should take priority over the caster. If you have lifted your rig 1-3/4" and lengthened the lower control arms, there is a good possibility that the front pinion angle is too large, which would cause premature wear on the front u-joint. As you stated in your post, each Jeep is different, so YMMV.
with lifts 4" and under, caster can be set at 8* with no front drive shaft problems.....
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Unread 02-02-2011, 09:59 AM   #813
bgmadmxr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
.
O... are those new OME sport shocks bottomed out in your pic? what is the compressed length on them?
I just found a link that shows all the OME shock specs.
http://store.geo4wdparts.com/uploads...t26jul2010.pdf
It shows the ext/comp length of the N66 as being 568mm/335mm and the 60047 as 565mm/334mm. So I would say thats basically the same.
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Unread 02-02-2011, 05:28 PM   #814
Heath
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So based on this; I have a 2.5 Rough Country with 35s and Metalcloak fenders. My lift has all 8 Johnny Joint ended arms. My shocks have about 7-8" of down travel from full compression, overall lentry's being 21" eye to eye at full extention.

Am I ok to run the stock trackbar on my 05 Rubicon? I'm worried about binding the tie rod end on extention. Should I be? What bumpstops should I run with the stock arm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
Here's my version of what Mud said (we both learned this on my Jeep).

I'm unhappy with the new Currie HD trackbar for the following reasons:

While I have OME HD front springs that are an honest 2.5" lift, I also have 1/2" and a 3/4" coil spacers (stacked). So my lift is really a 3.75" actual height lift that is sunk back down 1/2" due to the 75# weight on my front bumper (simulates a light rockcrawler winch + winchplate) so my actual lift height with the weight is now approx 3.25" lift.

Even with 2.5" lift and 2" bumpstop extension, the new Currie HD trackbar still sucks IMO for the following reasons:

1) It won't clear any aftermarket diff cover, except a Barnett cover that has same clearance on top half of cover as a stock cover. That isn't really a problem because the Barnett is a fantastic cover (with great clearance on top 2/3 of cover and great protection on bottom 1/3).

However, even with a Barnett (or stock) diff cover, the Currie trackbar doesn't have enough clearance to allow Mud to lengthen my JKS LCAs slightly to move my axle slightly forward of stock like it used to be back in the day.
By back in the day, I mean when I had 2.5" lift, stock UCAs, JKS LCAs lengthened enough to move front axle slightly forward of stock position and give me 7 degree castors with stock UCA, and a stock diff cover. My stock diff cover (same clearance as Barnett) easily cleared the stock trackbar, even with axle move slightly forward.
Now, with a stock diff cover again (installed by Mud, until we get a Barnett cover on there), the Currie trackbar wouldn't clear the stock cover if Mud moved my axle forward like I wanted it. So to get the Currie trackbar to clear the stock diff cover (or a Barnett), Mud had to keep my axle in approx stock location and install JKS UCA and shorten the UCA to shorter than stock to give me 7 degree castor.

i.e. - if I had my stock trackbar (with stock or Barnett diff cover), I could get my 7 degree castor by lengthening the JKS LCA longer than stock LCA, while having the UCA stock length. This would all clear great and drive great. I love having the front axle slightly forward of stock. I know this because this was my setup before I started buying various aftermarket diff covers and trackbars.

I curse the day I bought an aftermarket trackbar. They all suck for lifts under 4". The stock trackbar is THE BEST for lifts under 4" lift But now how can I go back to my stock trackbar when the JKS and Currie Trackbars that I tried both required drilling out my trackbar frame mount hole. Trying aftermarket trackbars has been a disaster! They don't have good clearance (not even the Currie) and installing them ruined my trackbar frame mount for ever using the stock trackbar again.

For up to a 2.5" lift: the stock trackbar in stock mounting locations is THE BEST. Best clearance, plenty strong, and centers axle plently good enough. For a 2.5" lift, leave your stock trackbar as is!!! It's better than any aftermarket trackbar!!!

That's ^^^ also the case for a 2.75" lift too. Mud said mine was only 3/8" offcenter with my 2.75" actual lift height and stock trackbar. That's close enough to use stock trackbar mounted to stock mounting points. Even with a true 3" lift, the stock trackbar mounted in stock mounting points would be only axle 1/2" offcenter, and therefore close enough.
(My lift height was 2.75" actual height when I brought it to Mud. He added a 1/2" spacer and it's now 3.25" actual. This after taking into account the 75# weight on my front bumper sinking springs down about 1/2").
For a 3.25" to 4" lift: the stock trackbar is still the best, but you will need to move the axle mount end to center the axle. I would NOT recommend moving the frame mount end because that might cause clearance issues with diff cover, or with steering linkage.

Aftermarket trackbars and aftermarket diff covers are ONLY best for high lifts. Meaning higher than 4". For a high lift, the Currie HD is the best.

One exception exists. The Barnett diff cover is awesome for any lift height, and also for stock height. I bought a Barnett (non installed yet), and it is very tough on the bottom 1/3" and very high clearance on the upper 2/3".
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Unread 02-02-2011, 05:46 PM   #815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slafferty View Post
i was searchin for some track bars and came across a skyjack. It appears to be straight and it says it relocated the track bar to the top of the axle.. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/skyj...ssembly-tba10/
I have no comment on Skyjacker (Though the very name stands against my build credo), nor the linked item - Though If you were running Hi-Steer, such as the Tera Knuckle/Kit I am (or the increasingly common WJ swap), in order to achieve proper geometry, it would have to be above the axle, inline with with your Drag Link. I posted earlier in the thread, but to exemplify my statement;

Hidden as it should be:
Mind you, it's still under construction.



Perfectly inline - No Steering Stabilizer needed
Proper Geometry.

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Unread 02-03-2011, 11:40 AM   #816
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Ok.. I tried to take a few pictures of my acos bumpstops, shocks and BDS trac bar.

There is 5.5" of compression before the shocks bottom out


This is not the best picture...it's a bad angle to read the tape... but from the bottom bumpstop to the front of the acos poly bushing is 4.5" (I don't think the poly bump stop pushes in like the stock ones..it is pretty solid)





These are pictures of the trac bar... best I could do. We just got hit with a huge snow storm..everything is iced up.









In some of those pics it looks like my TMR customs alumi-flex tie rod hits the cover but it has about 1/2" clearance.



I will have it in the shop on the weekend to replace the springs... I will put it down on the bumpstops and take some pics then... anything jump out from these pics?
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Unread 02-04-2011, 12:17 PM   #817
greg_kulosa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
Here's my version of what Mud said (we both learned this on my Jeep).


I curse the day I bought an aftermarket trackbar. They all suck for lifts under 4". The stock trackbar is THE BEST for lifts under 4" lift But now how can I go back to my stock trackbar when the JKS and Currie Trackbars that I tried both required drilling out my trackbar frame mount hole. Trying aftermarket trackbars has been a disaster! They don't have good clearance (not even the Currie) and installing them ruined my trackbar frame mount for ever using the stock trackbar again.

For up to a 2.5" lift: the stock trackbar in stock mounting locations is THE BEST. Best clearance, plenty strong, and centers axle plently good enough. For a 2.5" lift, leave your stock trackbar as is!!! It's better than any aftermarket trackbar!!!
Mud, is this still your best current recommendation for a 2.5" OME or 3" AEV lift? Keep the stock track bar and just put up with the slight axle shift?

What about the rear? Keep it stock? Or if not, who's trackbar do you recommend for the rear?

Thanks a bunch.
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Unread 02-04-2011, 06:08 PM   #818
EricsGreen98Tj
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You can use just a bracket in the rear IF you dont run a SYE/CV combo. IF you do i'm pretty sure that you have to run a trac bar with a flex joint on each end in order to clear the diff, control arms. and gas tank skid. Some run a rear bracket and the double flex bar.

Im sure someone with more experience will chime in and give more details.

I just run a bracket that came with my kit. but i dont have a sye either.
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Unread 02-04-2011, 06:21 PM   #819
Gary2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
You can use just a bracket in the rear IF you dont run a SYE/CV combo. IF you do i'm pretty sure that you have to run a trac bar with a flex joint on each end in order to clear the diff, control arms. and gas tank skid. Some run a rear bracket and the double flex bar.

Im sure someone with more experience will chime in and give more details.

I just run a bracket that came with my kit. but i dont have a sye either.
they make two kinds of brackets ,one for SYE that is curved and a straight on for Non SYE
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Unread 02-04-2011, 08:51 PM   #820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stjjames View Post
I have no comment on Skyjacker (Though the very name stands against my build credo), nor the linked item - Though If you were running Hi-Steer, such as the Tera Knuckle/Kit I am (or the increasingly common WJ swap), in order to achieve proper geometry, it would have to be above the axle, inline with with your Drag Link. I posted earlier in the thread, but to exemplify my statement;

Hidden as it should be:
Mind you, it's still under construction.



Perfectly inline - No Steering Stabilizer needed
Proper Geometry.

It would have perfect geometry if the Track bar was long enough to match the drag link......
__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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Unread 02-04-2011, 08:52 PM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_kulosa View Post
Mud, is this still your best current recommendation for a 2.5" OME or 3" AEV lift? Keep the stock track bar and just put up with the slight axle shift?

What about the rear? Keep it stock? Or if not, who's trackbar do you recommend for the rear?

Thanks a bunch.
Keep it stock or redrill, if you are using shocks with a 13.5" or less collapsed length, use a 2" rear relocation bracket on the rear with the stock track bar.

If you use 10" travel shocks, you need at least 2" bumpstop extension, use a currie offset front trackbar.
__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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Unread 02-04-2011, 08:58 PM   #822
mudb8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
You can use just a bracket in the rear IF you dont run a SYE/CV combo. IF you do i'm pretty sure that you have to run a trac bar with a flex joint on each end in order to clear the diff, control arms. and gas tank skid. Some run a rear bracket and the double flex bar.

Im sure someone with more experience will chime in and give more details.

I just run a bracket that came with my kit. but i dont have a sye either.
it's all in the thread......

BTW if you don't use a rear extension or modified axle bracket even with an adjustable bar you have more problems....
__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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Unread 02-04-2011, 09:00 PM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by securekey View Post
Ok.. I tried to take a few pictures of my acos bumpstops, shocks and BDS trac bar.

There is 5.5" of compression before the shocks bottom out


This is not the best picture...it's a bad angle to read the tape... but from the bottom bumpstop to the front of the acos poly bushing is 4.5" (I don't think the poly bump stop pushes in like the stock ones..it is pretty solid)





These are pictures of the trac bar... best I could do. We just got hit with a huge snow storm..everything is iced up.









In some of those pics it looks like my TMR customs alumi-flex tie rod hits the cover but it has about 1/2" clearance.



I will have it in the shop on the weekend to replace the springs... I will put it down on the bumpstops and take some pics then... anything jump out from these pics?
I'm seeing bumstop extension or acos there.....
__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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Unread 02-04-2011, 11:17 PM   #824
Mike_Motorbike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
Keep it stock or redrill, if you are using shocks with a 13.5" or less collapsed length, use a 2" rear relocation bracket on the rear with the stock track bar.

If you use 10" travel shocks, you need at least 2" bumpstop extension, use a currie offset front trackbar.
I think thats the key to this whole dilemma .
I like so may others here have been confounded by this whole thing.

But its really simple.
It occurred to me a little while ago.....

Right now I have 13-1/2" collapsed length shocks on 2-3/4" of lift and am running 3/4" bumpstop extensions. I'm off center 3/8" which puts one tire of 3/4" more than the other.

3/4" seems like alot but its really 3/8" thats really not very much.

If you just do the rear with a bracket it won't look as bad...

And / Or
You could rework the stock to fit . re-bend , re-drill , cut and splice.
If you have the resources to do that then fine.( I think the stocker limits down travel though...)

But if you don't have the resources and just want to bolt on a store bought adjustable tracbar go to a 3" 3.5" to 4" lift in front.....

I mean if you are at 2" or 2.5" you probly should have 3/4" to 1" bumpstop spacers already...
So go one more inch on both the bumpstop and lift.
Same goes for the shock if you don't want to get different shocks just add a 1" spacer to the shocks then you don't loose any travel...


This was just a temp thing but it worked GOOD.
Two spacers is a little extreme but you get the idea...





Like Mud said if you want an adjustable trac bar put on the lift you need for it....... if you don't then live with it.... and just fix the back.... Simple.
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Unread 02-05-2011, 12:15 AM   #825
stjjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
It would have perfect geometry if the Track bar was long enough to match the drag link......
Indeed.
Hence why I said 'proper'.
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