tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 54 - JeepForum.com
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post #796 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by securekey View Post
I did not get a bracket relocation with the BDS trac bar... just the bar. But yes it looks like the one in the picture. I will take pictures tonight.

We flexed it out and it was not even close to contacting the diff cover... I know the major concern is a 'dip' in the highway etc... where both sides go down.. tough to test that without disconnecting things but I will try.

I do have ACOS spacers in the front.. not sure of their bumpstop length. Perhaps that is the reason it doesn't hit. ??? no idea.

But I don't want to give false information... so anyone reading this... please let me test it further and take pics etc before you buy anything based on my post.
I'm pretty sure the ACOS have some bumpstop and are helping you.


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post #797 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Motorbike View Post
The rubber part of the bumpstop should (WILL on impact) compress fully into the bumpstop cup...
What lift do you have?

If you are running the 2"-3" lift shocks.... From some research I have done You should be running a 3/4" bumpstop spacer in the front.. and 3/8" in the back . I think you may be bottoming out on your shocks.... It could be very bad for them if this is the case...

How to find out your bumpstop spacer requirements.vvv
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ho...hocks-1114872/

Some shock length info . vvv
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sh...ngths-1000442/

I don't know for sure but if the OME shocks are what is listed on the net then it is.

By the way.
Thanks It looks to me like the JKS Bar clears and I may have an option after all.
Which JKS bar did you use?
Thanks for the info. The lift is OME 2930 springs/60047 shocks front, 2949 springs/60049 shocks rear. The shocks are the Sport shock versions of the originals so they should be the same length. I did put a little pressure on the bumpstops and still had some compression left in the shocks, maybe an inch or so. I havent had time to wheel to double check tire clearances so I may add an inch bumpstop later if I do get any tire interferance. The trackbar is the OGS126. As I said before, I was pleasantly surprised when I installed it.
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post #798 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubicon_Rob04 View Post
This is a very important point that is being made.
I have read numerous posts by Mudb8 saying that the normal length OME shocks did not need any bumpstop extensions, so I figured I was pretty safe. I also had shock compression left after the axle was on the bumpstops. Thanks for the input.
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post #799 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
I have read numerous posts by Mudb8 saying that the normal length OME shocks did not need any bumpstop extensions, so I figured I was pretty safe. I also had shock compression left after the axle was on the bumpstops. Thanks for the input.
N66 front shocks require no additional bumpstop. N67 rear shocks require 1.25"

however, your pics weren't at full bump - the jounce bumper will fully compress into the cup. you will be hitting the tie-rod.
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post #800 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
N66 front shocks require no additional bumpstop. N67 rear shocks require 1.25"
Thats what I thought I remembered reading. I still need to add the extensions to the rear. Just havent had a chance yet.
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post #801 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
I have read numerous posts by Mudb8 saying that the normal length OME shocks did not need any bumpstop extensions, so I figured I was pretty safe. I also had shock compression left after the axle was on the bumpstops. Thanks for the input.
Bumpstopping the trackbar is/can be independent of shock length bumpstopping.

Your shocks are correct but you can still be hitting the trackbar, requiring additional length. its always hard to say with the photos but I'd double check just the same. The two are independent of each other is what I'm trying to get to.
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post #802 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon_Rob04 View Post
Bumpstopping the trackbar is/can be independent of shock length bumpstopping.

Your shocks are correct but you can still be hitting the trackbar, requiring additional length. its always hard to say with the photos but I'd double check just the same. The two are independent of each other is what I'm trying to get to.
Sorry if the pictures dont show it completely, but the trackbar doesnt hit anything at full bump, and I still had shock compression left. I do get where you are coming from!
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post #803 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 09:21 PM
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i was searchin for some track bars and came across a skyjack. It appears to be straight and it says it relocated the track bar to the top of the axle.. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/skyj...ssembly-tba10/

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If you arent scratching it, you arent trying hard enough :tea:
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post #804 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slafferty View Post
i was searchin for some track bars and came across a skyjack. It appears to be straight and it says it relocated the track bar to the top of the axle.. http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/skyj...ssembly-tba10/
YEP!

Pretty darn stupid if you ask me..... not to mention the junk bushing and the heim.

what happens to the steering if your track bar isn't parallel to and on the same plane as the drag link?

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


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post #805 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 09:27 PM
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bumpsteer

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If you arent scratching it, you arent trying hard enough :tea:
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post #806 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by securekey View Post
Do you have the ''new" design? Apparently they reshaped it about a year ago when they were running into all the trouble with them breaking (I have no proof of that just what I was told)

I wonder if they fixed it?

I will take pics as soon as I can.. pretty cold and snowy up here :P I am actually going to take pics of my whole front setup... I would really appreciate your opinion on the set up.
YEP.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
As I was planning for my build I was following this thread closely. As a result of all the information here I had ordered the 2" bumpstops and had them ready just in case. I was pleasantly surprized with the results when I was finishing the lift. As we all know every Jeep is a little different so take my results and the pictures however you like. It clears but is very close, if you have an upgraded tierod I could see it possibly contacting there. If you have a larger diff cover I could see it hitting that as well. The lift is OME 2930 springs/60047 shocks front, 2949 springs/60049 shocks rear. JKS adjustable arms, front lower set approx 1/4" longer than stock, front upper set at stock. JKS adjustable track bars front and rear. If I remember correctly it gave me 6.7 degrees caster when I had it alligned.
The pictures are after I installed everything, centered the axle, removed the springs and set it on the bumpstops. So far it drives like a dream, I have not had the chance to wheel it yet.
Thanks to Mudb8 for all the information provided on the forum!





That JKS track bar requires a minumum of 1.5" bumpstop extenison to keep it from hitting the TIE ROD just as your own pics are showing, the rubber bummper will COMPLETELY compress on a very minor impact, it will in fact clear a riddler cover with 2" bumpstop extensions...

that also happens to be the Design JKS did and I personally cut the end off of the proto type and tack welded to it's current position to clear the tie rod with out having to use over 3" bumpstop extension, the prototype currently resides on unlimited04's tj...

heres a pic before I hacked the end off of it... you can clearly see it's nearly at full compression. I removed the tie rod to illustrate just why it wouldn't work...





Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
I have read numerous posts by Mudb8 saying that the normal length OME shocks did not need any bumpstop extensions, so I figured I was pretty safe. I also had shock compression left after the axle was on the bumpstops. Thanks for the input.
exaclty, ome N66 front shocks do not need extension, N67 rears must have a minimum of 1.25" bumpstop extension.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


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post #807 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
That JKS track bar requires a minumum of 1.5" bumpstop extenison to keep it from hitting the TIE ROD just as your own pics are showing, the rubber bummper will COMPLETELY compress on a very minor impact, it will in fact clear a riddler cover with 2" bumpstop extensions...

that also happens to be the Design JKS did and I personally cut the end off of the proto type and tack welded to it's current position to clear the tie rod with out having to use over 3" bumpstop extension, the prototype currently resides on unlimited04's tj...
I guess I didnt account for the full compression into the cup. When I get to adding my rear extensions I'll add front ones as well. I'm still happy that I have as much room as I do in front of the diff cover. So I guess thanks for modifying JKS's trackbar design for me.
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post #808 of 1775 Old 02-01-2011, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
I guess I didnt account for the full compression into the cup. When I get to adding my rear extensions I'll add front ones as well. I'm still happy that I have as much room as I do in front of the diff cover. So I guess thanks for modifying JKS's trackbar design for me.
Worst case is it'll shove the tie rod out of the way and get hooked on it on the way back up...

it's really gonna stink for the guys with the New JKS design that decide to/try flipping the tie rod..... at full compression tho, I'd rather have the track bar graze the cover and flex the bushings than bind up the steering or pop a TRE from repeatedly taking a beating. the joint end is also smaller than the old design that used the Johnny Joint, which gives more cover/axle room.

O... are those new OME sport shocks bottomed out in your pic? what is the compressed length on them?

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


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post #809 of 1775 Old 02-02-2011, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
...JKS adjustable arms, front lower set approx 1/4" longer than stock, front upper set at stock. JKS adjustable track bars front and rear. If I remember correctly it gave me 6.7 degrees caster when I had it alligned....
Pinion angle should take priority over the caster. If you have lifted your rig 1-3/4" and lengthened the lower control arms, there is a good possibility that the front pinion angle is too large, which would cause premature wear on the front u-joint. As you stated in your post, each Jeep is different, so YMMV.

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post #810 of 1775 Old 02-02-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
that also happens to be the Design JKS did and I personally cut the end off of the proto type and tack welded to it's current position to clear the tie rod with out having to use over 3" bumpstop extension, the prototype currently resides on unlimited04's tj...
yea...that track bar was quite the adventure JKS isn't very receptive to the problems of their design. bgmadmxr - I'd send those pictures to JKS's email tech support and tell them the new track bar bend isn't adequete to clear the tie-rod...those pics prove it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmadmxr View Post
I guess I didnt account for the full compression into the cup.
yup, it compresses into the cup:




Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
Worst case is it'll shove the tie rod out of the way and get hooked on it on the way back up...

it's really gonna stink for the guys with the New JKS design that decide to/try flipping the tie rod..... at full compression tho, I'd rather have the track bar graze the cover and flex the bushings than bind up the steering or pop a TRE from repeatedly taking a beating. the joint end is also smaller than the old design that used the Johnny Joint, which gives more cover/axle room.
from the pics it looks like they still used the big JJ on his production version. i may be the only one with the small joint.

here's what I had to do to get it to clear the "SOLI" diff cover. With 1-3/8" bumpstop it just barely slaps the V8 ZJ tie-rod. you can see the paint rub marks on the TR from my testing, unfortunately no full compression pics...



turned two 3/8" round steel pucks on a lathe, drilled it, welded it to the spring pad and tapped it.


then mounted a 1" "Big Block" Performance Accessories body lift puck on it.
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