tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 45 - JeepForum.com

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post #661 of 1784 Old 09-08-2010, 07:47 PM
bandit455
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those bumpstops are keeping your trackbar out of your diff.


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post #662 of 1784 Old 09-08-2010, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bandit455 View Post
those bumpstops are keeping your trackbar out of your diff.
Okay, I obviously missed the point of the thread entirely and need to sit down and do some serious reading. Thanks for taking the time to let me know.

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post #663 of 1784 Old 09-08-2010, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
It is time for my rig to get bumpstops, trackbars, shocks and coils. I have 4.5 inches of front up-travel at my chosen ride height with 15 inches of coil height between the upper and lower buckets. My trackbar mount clears the diff housing but my trackbar is going to need a 30 degree dog-leg in it for the 1st 4 inches.- edit- The last 1.5 inches of uptravel needs to clear the diff bulge... The pics above showing the front suspension/steering compents has an adjustable trackbar that looks like it would work well... Anyone know what make this one is?? -end edit-

I'm thinking that a some sort of adjustable bumpstops will be helpful to work with to sort out the final setup...

What would ya'll suggest that I look into to purchase??





Thanks everyone.

where's your track bar pics?...

bumpstops are going to need to match the collapsed length of the shocks.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #664 of 1784 Old 09-08-2010, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SaltyJeeper View Post
No your wrong on that one... deff the Zerk on the pitman. No contact on the diff cover but I have something funky going on. Looking at a JKS front adjust and go back to orig pitman.... so noone has ever seen this?
a stock pitman arm is 5 5/8" from center to center, some aftermarket ones are 6 1/2"... go figure, they don't work well on short lifts without bumpstop extension.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #665 of 1784 Old 09-08-2010, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit455 View Post
are you running the included bumpstop extnesions with your lift?

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #666 of 1784 Old 09-09-2010, 12:31 PM
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This has been an interesting read, although to be honest I did not read all 45 pages. Two years ago my local shop offered me a great deal on a RE1600 tack bar that they had ordered for a customer that never showed up with the cash. My first trip into the dirt was filled with all kinds of new clunking noises, when I finally stopped to look it was my new track bar banging on the diff. I took it back, they looked at it and acknowledged that they screwed up - they assumed because I was running 33's that I had 4" lift necessary for the RE track bar they sold me (I run 2" BDS springs with the supplied bump stops plus a 1" BL). Last year my DW returned, and my local alignment shop pointed out that my track bar was loose at the adjustment collar. I took it back over to the offroad shop, they tightened everything back up again, has been good ever since. I have a fairly noticeable groove in my stock D30 cover, but no clearance issues with the gears. Other than working it's way loose that one time, no other issues, and in fact it doesn't clunk any more now that it has clearanced itself. I just had the track bar out a couple of weeks ago when I temporarily swapped in another D30 - mine is going back in this weekend, and I plan to rebuild the heim joint on the track bar while I have it all apart. I'll take some pictures and post them after I get it all apart again.

My Jeep is driven daily, ~18k miles per year so I have roughly 30k on this set up. I also beat it on the rocks on occaision, and when running trails to perform trail maintenance I am frequently hitting "whoops" and berms hard enough to launch us out of our seats and sometimes catch air under the front axle....OK maybe 25-30mph down an ATV trail is a bit excessive I'll admit, but just reinforcing the fact that despite my significant diff cover contact, I have not had any significant issues. Maybe just luck?

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post #667 of 1784 Old 09-14-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
where's your track bar pics?...

bumpstops are going to need to match the collapsed length of the shocks.
Hi mudb8,
You can't see the track bar pic? Why not? Geesh, I don't know where it went to. Thanks for your patience. I think that purchasing a track bar made for a 4 to 6 inch lift like this one:
eBay -Jim's Track Bar Shopping
Then cutting off the bushing barrel, setting up the length, and re-welding after I've put the bends in it where I need them.

Ok about the shocks- thanks for the explanation. You've probably told me before...

My coils are evidently in at NAPA.

Here is one for you mudb8... My track bar is somewhat shorter (4 to 6 inches- I'm at work and haven't measure) than my drag link. Also, my front articulation on a passenger wheel droop pulls the pinion to the driver's side (surprise ). I'm thinking of cutting the track bar frame mount off and re-welding it to the outside of the frame. The extra few inches will geometrically reduce the axle shift to the left and better handle bump-steer issues. What do you think??

Thanks.

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post #668 of 1784 Old 09-14-2010, 11:08 PM
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Two questions everyone-

What tie rod end can I buy to make an adjustable front track bar? I had a tie rod for an F150 from NAPA home today to see if it fit in the tapered front frame mount and it was to big to pass through the tapered hole.

Another option is to use a Johnny Joint instead of a tie-rod. Are there bolts available with a tapered shank that I can use to avoid drilling out my tapered hole in the frame?

Thanks, Jim

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post #669 of 1784 Old 09-16-2010, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsterjc View Post
Two questions everyone-

What tie rod end can I buy to make an adjustable front track bar? I had a tie rod for an F150 from NAPA home today to see if it fit in the tapered front frame mount and it was to big to pass through the tapered hole.

Another option is to use a Johnny Joint instead of a tie-rod. Are there bolts available with a tapered shank that I can use to avoid drilling out my tapered hole in the frame?

Thanks, Jim
v-8 ZJ grand cherokee TRE, or the pitman arm end TRE for the TJ. they are 22MM. which is what Rusty's and several other manufactures use for track bar ends. I'm using curries 2"x1.6" wide JJ's for my track bars.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #670 of 1784 Old 09-16-2010, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
v-8 ZJ grand cherokee TRE, or the pitman arm end TRE for the TJ. they are 22MM. which is what Rusty's and several other manufactures use for track bar ends. I'm using curries 2"x1.6" wide JJ's for my track bars.
Awesome info, mudb8. Thank you. I'll be shopping tommorrow.

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post #671 of 1784 Old 09-16-2010, 10:36 PM
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mine fits! custom bent jks 2.0 builder kit... 2.5" RC coils w/ WJ OTK steering... 5" uptravel, custom mounts and custom flat pitman arm... little bit of work but i was tired of breaking the TRE on my old one... and sorry for the blurry pics...




you can kinda see the rust spot in the second pic on my diff cover where the old one used to rub... ignore my pinion leak...



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post #672 of 1784 Old 09-17-2010, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cgmrdc View Post
mine fits! custom bent jks 2.0 builder kit... 2.5" RC coils w/ WJ OTK steering... 5" uptravel, custom mounts and custom flat pitman arm... little bit of work but i was tired of breaking the TRE on my old one... and sorry for the blurry pics...
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z22/cgmrdc/The%20TJ/WJ%20Knuckles/CIMG0157.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z22/cgmrdc/The%20TJ/WJ%20Knuckles/CIMG0158.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z22/cgmrdc/The%20TJ/WJ%20Knuckles/CIMG0159.jpg[/IMG

you can kinda see the rust spot in the second pic on my diff cover where the old one used to rub... ignore my pinion leak...
LOL, of course it fits! you raised the axle end 4"..... Nice Job BTW!

I put the already bent adjustable end on the frame side when messing with the wj or high steer stuff, that way, no bending is needed with the JKS builder bar.



I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable



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post #673 of 1784 Old 09-17-2010, 01:46 AM
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i thought about that, but bc i raised the frame side mount up too the trac bar woulda hit the oil pan at full bump... i needed the bend down on the axel end too so i guess it coulda gone either way lol

Edit: ill throw this out there too, running 12" travel shocks (5 up, 7 down) and still on stock bumps with 36s... not an easy task, lots of cutting and welding...



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post #674 of 1784 Old 09-23-2010, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by phittie1100 View Post
This has been an interesting read, although to be honest I did not read all 45 pages. Two years ago my local shop offered me a great deal on a RE1600 tack bar that they had ordered for a customer that never showed up with the cash. My first trip into the dirt was filled with all kinds of new clunking noises, when I finally stopped to look it was my new track bar banging on the diff. I took it back, they looked at it and acknowledged that they screwed up - they assumed because I was running 33's that I had 4" lift necessary for the RE track bar they sold me (I run 2" BDS springs with the supplied bump stops plus a 1" BL). Last year my DW returned, and my local alignment shop pointed out that my track bar was loose at the adjustment collar. I took it back over to the offroad shop, they tightened everything back up again, has been good ever since. I have a fairly noticeable groove in my stock D30 cover, but no clearance issues with the gears. Other than working it's way loose that one time, no other issues, and in fact it doesn't clunk any more now that it has clearanced itself. I just had the track bar out a couple of weeks ago when I temporarily swapped in another D30 - mine is going back in this weekend, and I plan to rebuild the heim joint on the track bar while I have it all apart. I'll take some pictures and post them after I get it all apart again.

My Jeep is driven daily, ~18k miles per year so I have roughly 30k on this set up. I also beat it on the rocks on occaision, and when running trails to perform trail maintenance I am frequently hitting "whoops" and berms hard enough to launch us out of our seats and sometimes catch air under the front axle....OK maybe 25-30mph down an ATV trail is a bit excessive I'll admit, but just reinforcing the fact that despite my significant diff cover contact, I have not had any significant issues. Maybe just luck?



After a closer inspection, I have a matching flat spot on the back of the track bar that matches.

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post #675 of 1784 Old 09-23-2010, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
v-8 ZJ grand cherokee TRE, or the pitman arm end TRE for the TJ. they are 22MM. which is what Rusty's and several other manufactures use for track bar ends. I'm using curries 2"x1.6" wide JJ's for my track bars.
Hi there mudb8 and everyone else. Well, I picked up a pair of used trackbars from a TJ and won't be using the stock front tre setup on my rig. There isn't enough articulation in it I don't think, or if there is it must be totally maxed out... haven't checked but it doesn't look like it gives enough flex before binding.

SO... what are the longest lasting/most rigid joints I could build one with that will fit???

DOM tubing is pricey so I think I'll use 1.25 1045 steel rod for the bars. A little cutting and welding to the "stock" frame-side mount, and if need be also to the Currie coil/shock/trackbar mount if needed. I don't have tons of space on the front axle end for a large radius hiem... Maybe only can stuff in a 1.75 OD diameter as it is right now and that will really be pushing it on the currie bracket without grinding.

Ideas??

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