tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 21 - JeepForum.com

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post #301 of 1784 Old 08-19-2009, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
mudb8
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I got a project in the shop now that the currie track bar can't fix!


d44 with an ARB diff cover... I'm working on another bracket to move the current JKS forward and prevent further problems.

it has two separate problems one of which is related to the JKS, the other is from the diff cover...






here's the current state of the mock up bracket...



there's couple other factors involved, the axle is 3/8" offcenter to the drivers, but since it only needs to move 3/16" to correct it, it'll still get caught up with the cover, it already has 2" bumpstops and the cover fill plug is getting into the track bar also. i'm not entirely sure if the JJ isn't preventing a worse impact with the plug. I didn't look at which OME shocks are on it, tho if it's got n66/n67's the 2" stops are an over kill for what it actually needs.
another thing is the upper and lower JKS control arms are set to stock lengths... so the caster will be improved by adjusting the lowers to 16", which will also better center the wheels in the wells. I haven't had time to put er on the rack yet.. it'll get some meticulous treatment when it gets there...

BTW... hope rob diddn't scare ya off, I let out a gasp when he told me his original quote! lol...


I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
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shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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post #302 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 08:59 AM
dtc503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
I got a project in the shop now that the currie track bar can't fix!


d44 with an ARB diff cover... I'm working on another bracket to move the current JKS forward and prevent further problems.

it has two separate problems one of which is related to the JKS, the other is from the diff cover...






here's the current state of the mock up bracket...



there's couple other factors involved, the axle is 3/8" offcenter to the drivers, but since it only needs to move 3/16" to correct it, it'll still get caught up with the cover, it already has 2" bumpstops and the cover fill plug is getting into the track bar also. i'm not entirely sure if the JJ isn't preventing a worse impact with the plug. I didn't look at which OME shocks are on it, tho if it's got n66/n67's the 2" stops are an over kill for what it actually needs.
another thing is the upper and lower JKS control arms are set to stock lengths... so the caster will be improved by adjusting the lowers to 16", which will also better center the wheels in the wells. I haven't had time to put er on the rack yet.. it'll get some meticulous treatment when it gets there...

BTW... hope rob diddn't scare ya off, I let out a gasp when he told me his original quote! lol...
Rob didn't scare me off...just made me rethink what I wanted to do!
He called me back and requoted me with a fair price so I was willing to go ahead with this project.

Just an FYI, I do have the N66L / N67L installed.

Just an observation;
Could you use the Clayton mount and then just cutoff and rotate the JJ or a different joint to correct the problem? Or would that still cause interference with the cover ?

Or do you like building / creating your own solutions?

Thanks,
dtc503
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post #303 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtc503 View Post
Rob didn't scare me off...just made me rethink what I wanted to do!
He called me back and requoted me with a fair price so I was willing to go ahead with this project.

Just an FYI, I do have the N66L / N67L installed.

Just an observation;
Could you use the Clayton mount and then just cutoff and rotate the JJ or a different joint to correct the problem? Or would that still cause interference with the cover ?

Or do you like building / creating your own solutions?

Thanks,
dtc503

yep, the clayton could work, it's 5/16" plate. i'll have to measure the jj to be sure tho. you'll need a drop pitman to go along with the clayton bracket, which I have a few of and...
I have a JKS track bar for a WJ grand that'll bolt right on the clayton bracket, I had it on my tj with the nth frame brace and have since went back to the stock wj track bar.


I love creating solutions..... and throwing sparks.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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post #304 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgimble View Post
You might want to test that with the 4" lift as well. The track bar (pn 1085) that came with my 4" x-series (bought 2 months ago) hits my diff cover pretty bad even after I shortened the lower arms to near stock length.
Just installed a Series II 4" with the older style adj tracbar. The track bar hit the diff cover, so I talked to RC and they said it was "imposable". There must be something with my suspension. They sent me the new style bar after I suggested it might work. No rubbing no problems, now. I had to have the bracket welded too.








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Last edited by Buckster; 08-20-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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post #305 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
yep, the clayton could work, it's 5/16" plate. i'll have to measure the jj to be sure tho. you'll need a drop pitman to go along with the clayton bracket, which I have a few of and...
I have a JKS track bar for a WJ grand that'll bolt right on the clayton bracket, I had it on my tj with the nth frame brace and have since went back to the stock wj track bar.


I love creating solutions..... and throwing sparks.
So mudb8,
With your new mount will I need a drop pitman arm?
Does the new arm just create more space or does the stock arm hit something in that area?
dtc503
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post #306 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtc503 View Post
So mudb8,
With your new mount will I need a drop pitman arm?
Does the new arm just create more space or does the stock arm hit something in that area?
dtc503

the stock pitman arm won't hit anything. there isn't any room to drop the jks track bar with the JJ end any further than the stock location with the ARB as the clayton bracket would do. so the stock pitman arm will remain on there. what really needs happen with the arb cover, is to cut the stock frame mount shorter to move the jks bar up and forward slightly. that will get it between the tie rod and the cover. as it was, it had 2 1/2" before contacting the cover it has 4" without cutting anything, using what I put together,

still messing with it....

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

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post #307 of 1784 Old 08-20-2009, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
the stock pitman arm won't hit anything. there isn't any room to drop the jks track bar with the JJ end any further than the stock location with the ARB as the clayton bracket would do. so the stock pitman arm will remain on there. what really needs happen with the arb cover, is to cut the stock frame mount shorter to move the jks bar up and forward slightly. that will get it between the tie rod and the cover. as it was, it had 2 1/2" before contacting the cover it has 4" without cutting anything, using what I put together,

still messing with it....
Well post a picture when you have time......................
Thanks,
dtc503
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post #308 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 07:45 AM
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Mud, for those of us with the 2" shocks and 2" springs from OME (Not the 2.5" kit & not the Budget boost kit) will the currie trac bar work for us if we have a stock D-30 with stock diff cover?
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post #309 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 02:42 PM
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OOps, I guess I need to figure something new out for my TB.


Why do I post here?
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post #310 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 04:27 PM
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well that being said above..i will be cross braceing my currie hd tb tomorrow hopefully...
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post #311 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nriver View Post
OOps, I guess I need to figure something new out for my TB.

Did you snap it?
It almost looks like it was cut!!
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post #312 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 09:25 PM
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Yep, Porta band'd it right off. Then Grinded it, then sawazalled, then grinded, then porta banded, then grinded......... You get the picture. It took me longer than I thought it would.

I am in the middle of a SA/MA/LA build. Cant quite decide what to do with the arms. I knew the TB was in the way. I tried the Currie I had and the FT TB and they kept hitting running 1" of BS. So, I ordered some stuff up and cut the old mount off.

It looks like I can run a straight TB from my new mount. At least my mockup bar looks like it will work.

One of these days I will learn something about suspensions or taking other peoples advice. I just like to do it my way. LOL.

It looks like this now.


Why do I post here?
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post #313 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCJ View Post
Mud, for those of us with the 2" shocks and 2" springs from OME (Not the 2.5" kit & not the Budget boost kit) will the currie trac bar work for us if we have a stock D-30 with stock diff cover?

yep, the currie will work there,

about the only thing that may need to be done to the currie, if it's a problem, is to clearance the gusset currie has on the back side, I doubt It would need to be done tho..

edit.. next week I'll be putting a new currie bar on a d44 with a crane cover, I'll prolly pull the spings and see how far it can stuff since I have to make a bumpstop adjustment anyhow...

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com

Last edited by mudb8; 08-21-2009 at 11:31 PM.
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post #314 of 1784 Old 08-21-2009, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nriver View Post
OOps, I guess I need to figure something new out for my TB.

[IMG]http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p116/inline6_bucket/Jeep%20LA%20Build/IMG_0103.jpg/IMG]

nice... that's progress going on there!

I had to give up on making the jks clear the ARB cover, the stock frame mount needs to be cuttoff...

the JJ end of the JKS is to big to move 1 1/2" forward, it'll hit the steering linkage and a different part of the cover. less than 1 1/2 puts the bolt up against the stock bracket, which leaves no room for a hole without welding and more modification.. it works for track bars with TRE's and heims, they are smaller and clear the draglink. the JJ is just to big,

I also grabbed a JJ off the shelf, the same as clayton uses.... that won't work with the ARB cover either,

what will work is a JKS WJ grand cherokee track bar using clayton's bracket, I have a JKS wj bar that I used as a mock up, it gets stuck between the tie rod and the cover at the point it hits the cover... problem there is, the clayton bracket is to wide to bolt the jks wj track bar in, it needs spacer/s to make it work. the other problem is the jks polly bushings are JUNK... that's why I took it off of mine, I've heard from WJ guru's that kevin's off road has better bushings that last longer.


I believe I can still make the JKS work but it needs the stock bracket hacked off to do it, tho it'll still smack the ARB on the ledge without bumpstops.

what I was hoping to accomplish, was to make the bracket a bolt on and solve the JKS problem.. ain't gonna happen without cutting stock bracketry, It does however fix rubbage problems for other adjustable track bars including the stock track bar..

any how I invested close to 8 hours, between last night and untill after lunch today, into fooling around with making several mock up brackets then modifying those further.

so.... I tried at least. but now I know what it'll take.. I didn't have permission to hack the stock bracket off of the rig I was working on, otherwise I woulda done it and rotated the JJ on the JKS track bar, still woulda needed some spacers to use the JJ that's on the JKS bar and still bumpstoped to keep it from hitting the ARB ledge, it would at least have closer to 5" of uptravel tho before contact. instead of 2 1/2"

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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post #315 of 1784 Old 08-22-2009, 09:44 AM
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Yep, I ran into all those issues, prob spent more time. Kept trying to use the stock mount with different attachment methods. Things kept hitting, so I cut it off.

So, building my own TB was the only answer. Not that I really know how to build one.

Why do I post here?
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