tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 111 - JeepForum.com

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post #1651 of 1784 Old 11-19-2013, 08:26 AM
BYuen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Dave
What's wrong with RE lowers?
The hour glass shaped bushings. Wallow out fast after 5-10k miles.

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post #1652 of 1784 Old 11-20-2013, 12:16 AM
Border Dave
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I haven't had any problems with my rear lower RE arms. They've been on there for about 30,000 miles. Maybe it happens to people who don't grease them?
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post #1653 of 1784 Old 11-20-2013, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Dave View Post
I haven't had any problems with my rear lower RE arms. They've been on there for about 30,000 miles.
sorry ... off topic
but your first version made me smile
(coward ... for post editing it so boringly clean )

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post #1654 of 1784 Old 11-20-2013, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Dave View Post
I haven't had any problems with my rear lower RE arms. They've been on there for about 30,000 miles. Maybe it happens to people who don't grease them?
It's been a problem since re started making the hourglass bushings. They have tried half a dozen times or so to fix it and failed. The hourglass bushing doesn't take grease it's the rubber bushing side. The super joint on the other end will also eventually need tightened, or rebuilt, but they are less problematic than the bushing.

Being in the rear you may notice it less if you were in need of hourglass bushings. If you take an arm off at a time to inspect them it's likely they will have slop in them.
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post #1655 of 1784 Old 11-20-2013, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
but your first version made me smile
(coward ... for post editing it so boringly clean )
LOL You caught me! I thought I changed it quick enough that nobody saw my smarta$$ reply.
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post #1656 of 1784 Old 11-20-2013, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post

It's been a problem since re started making the hourglass bushings. They have tried half a dozen times or so to fix it and failed. The hourglass bushing doesn't take grease it's the rubber bushing side. The super joint on the other end will also eventually need tightened, or rebuilt, but they are less problematic than the bushing.

Being in the rear you may notice it less if you were in need of hourglass bushings. If you take an arm off at a time to inspect them it's likely they will have slop in them.
I take them apart and grease them..

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
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shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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post #1657 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 04:16 AM
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post

I take them apart and grease them..
Yep, and let's not forget the special tool you need to buy from re to do that as well. A small one for the uppers and large for lowers. Those maintenance free duroflex bushings are sounding better to me all the time.
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post #1658 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
mudb8
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Originally Posted by rda616 View Post

Yep, and let's not forget the special tool you need to buy from re to do that as well. A small one for the uppers and large for lowers. Those maintenance free duroflex bushings are sounding better to me all the time.
Meaning you dont maintain them. Just replace them.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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post #1659 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 09:26 AM
rda616
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Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post

Meaning you dont maintain them. Just replace them.
Which is what you will be doing with those hard re races eventually. And these replaceable mc bushings seem to be holding up quite well vs the hourglass bushings re uses that do not.
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post #1660 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post

Which is what you will be doing with those hard re races eventually. And these replaceable mc bushings seem to be holding up quite well vs the hourglass bushings re uses that do not.
Do not clutter my thread with ignorance.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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post #1661 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 10:05 AM
rda616
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Do not clutter my thread with ignorance.
I don't see how fact translates to ignorance. Having all 8 re control arms on my rig now I know how poorly they have held up.
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post #1662 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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I don't see how fact translates to ignorance. Having all 8 re control arms on my rig now I know how poorly they have held up.
There are no facts to support how a wj ca bushing is better than a p.o.s. re bushing. Start your own thread if you want to advertise mc's unproven product and misinformed ideas. It has nothing to do with track bars. Admin has been informed...

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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post #1663 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
Yep, and let's not forget the special tool you need to buy from re to do that as well. A small one for the uppers and large for lowers. Those maintenance free duroflex bushings are sounding better to me all the time.
I used a punch for the lowers. For the uppers I used a chevy/ford wheel bearing socket. Prongs fit perfectly

My build
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/the_dealers-soft-core-build-1476982/
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post #1664 of 1784 Old 11-21-2013, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
Do not clutter my thread with ignorance.
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post #1665 of 1784 Old 02-15-2014, 11:33 PM
dustymc
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It fits!
  • RE 3.5" lift springs, RE adjustable "superflex" arms
    [*8" total bumpstop, measured between spring pads at full stuff - I have no idea what stock bumpstops look like
  • Currie/Savvy CurrectLync steering
  • D30, Solid cover
  • Metalcloak trackbar
  • I had to grind one "fin" off the diff cover, and take a very thin slice off the top edge of the block that the fill plug screws into.
  • Trackbar just touches the diff cover at full stuff. Maybe 1/16" clearance between the steering stabilizer bracket bolts and the trackbar. No problem anywhere else, although I did have to fiddle with the draglink adjuster
  • https://imgur.com/a/rbKvS
  • Yea, I know, mad photography skills. I'm available for weddings....
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