tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 107 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-26-2013, 01:19 AM   #1591
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oalali View Post
That is why I stopped trusting the shops and started trying to do almost everything myself!
The quality of the shops is really garbage around here!

BTW, didn't you do the adjustment at the local Jeep Dealer workshop (WM) ?!
I need my own garage!
- wrenching on public ground (on the street) is not allowed here
- summer is unbearable outside (if I get the chance to use a friends yard)

Still I did lots of stuff myself ... but not this one ... WM adjusted the previous set of arms ... 3 months ago I told another garage to use the already set up arms as a guideline for the new currie set. I don't know who screwed up. Most likely the last garage, bc I never had that bad cupping before ... and they should have noticed the difference in arm lengths anyway

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Unread 03-31-2013, 05:34 AM   #1592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
ok, you basically have a whole bunch less caster than stock and have the axle sucked back into the wheelwell pretty far (hence minimal diff clearance issues). any idea what the actual caster spec is?

for reference,
stock arms:
UCA = 15"
LCA = 15.75"
caster = 7

my Jeep:
UCA = 15"
LCA = 16-1/8"
caster = 6.5

I'd suggest shortening the uppers to 14.75"-15", and extending the lowers to 16-16.25", to get some caster back. you'll be amazed at the difference in drive-ability. of course you'll need to check full bump again. post pictures again.

side note: based on your profile, it looks like you may have cut the control arm mounts off and welded new ones in place, so arm length may be slightly different...but that's a place to start, and see what caster results. what is obvious though, is the reason you don't have clearance issues like the rest of us is because you've pulled the axle back in the wheelwell (whether by bracket position, or arm length, or combination of both). this is well confirmed by the tire rubbing, bumpstop alignment, drag-link and track bar positioning shown in your previous pictures.


Ok Unlimited, thanks for the measurements. I met ya half way on them.
As of this afternoon I have:
UCA = 15
LCA = 16
Caster unknown as of now. Need to do some reading up on that.

With these control arm measurements, I stuffed the axle till my bump stop cups hit my bump stop extensions (2"), and...NOTHING TOUCHES

At full stuff, I've Got aprox. an 1/8" left between the riddler diff cover and Currie TB. And aprox. 1/16" between the TB's Johnny Joint housing and the inside edge of the spring plate (now that the tracking is adjusted correctly)

There is absolutely no contact between anything other than the bump stop cups and the 2" extensions. Not even my shocks!







For your viewing pleasure

I did come across a slightly annoying after effect of having dialed in my arms and track bar. My steering wheel is now almost half a turn off when I'm driving strait. How do I adjust this?
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Unread 03-31-2013, 05:55 AM   #1593
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post

Ok Unlimited, thanks for the measurements. I met ya half way on them.
As of this afternoon I have:
UCA = 15
LCA = 16
Caster unknown as of now. Need to do some reading up on that.

With these control arm measurements, I stuffed the axle till my bump stop cups hit my bump stop extensions (2"), and...NOTHING TOUCHES

At full stuff, I've Got aprox. an 1/8" left between the riddler diff cover and Currie TB. And aprox. 1/16" between the TB's Johnny Joint housing and the inside edge of the spring plate (now that the tracking is adjusted correctly)

There is absolutely no contact between anything other than the bump stop cups and the 2" extensions. Not even my shocks!

For your viewing pleasure
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNE6yMJTgqw

I did come across a slightly annoying after effect of having dialed in my arms and track bar. My steering wheel is now almost half a turn off when I'm driving strait. How do I adjust this?
The adjustment collar on the drag link will fix the steering wheel being off.
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Unread 03-31-2013, 06:05 AM   #1594
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Great! Thanks.

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Unread 03-31-2013, 07:32 AM   #1595
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nice work!
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Unread 03-31-2013, 07:45 AM   #1596
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nice work!
Thanks! I'm pretty psyched! Next come the flares so I can get up off my tires.

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Unread 04-03-2013, 02:14 PM   #1597
aTX427
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I am glad this thread is still alive, because I need some major help. I had noticed scuffs on my front diff (UCF), but didn't know enough to even know I had a problem until I started working on my front caster. Come to find out, I have all kinds of problems that need to be addressed.

Here is the situation; I have a 99" TJ with a D30, I installed an XJ tie rod, a UCF front diff cover and a Currie JJ track bar. My track bar hits the tie rod, the front diff cover and the diff at the frame side gusset. My tie rod hits the front of the diff cover and my track bar. I have adjustable control arms on stock mounts. My lower arms are set at 16" and my uppers are 15.25", which gives me 7* of caster and 1* of front pinion misalignment. I can dial all that in, but I my bigger concern is fixing the interference.

I have tried cycling the suspension every possible way in an effort to understand the dynamics of what is occurring. Here is the low down:

Scenario 1 - Setting the passenger side to ride height with wheels straight - raise the driver side = 3.75" of bump stop
* The frame side of the track bar at the lower JJ and the gusset hits the diff and is about to hit the front of the diff cover. If it cleared the gusset, there it would certainly interfere with the diff cover as the driver side came up more.

Looking down on the track bar from the wheel well


View from below


Turning the wheel full passenger pulls the track bar away from the front of the diff cover, but still interferes at the frame mount side. When I turn the wheel driver, the track bar is just kissing the front diff but stops, because the tie rod hits the driver side sway bar link mount.



Scenario 2: Full stretch - Set passenger all the way down and raise the driver side = 2.5" of bump stop before tire his fender, which is also when I run out of shock travel
* Turning full passenger, the tie rod hits the track bar with about a half inch before the tire hits my Currie anti-rock sway bar end links. No problems with the differential.
* Turning full driver, my tire rubs the back of the Metalcloak fender wall just as the tie rod connect with the sway bar link mount on the axle, No problems with the differential. I think a few degrees less caster and/or a 1" body lift will enable the tie rod to hit the sway bar link mount before the tire hits the fender. When I had the lower links at 16.25" there was a small gap between the tire and the rear fender wall at full stretch with the wheel full driver, but I had more interference.
* Removing the tire and shock, I can raise the driver side to 2.375" of bump stop until the tie rod hits the track bar and if I continue raising the axle, make it to 1.75" of bump before the track bar hits the diff at the frame side / gusset and it lifts the frame. Turning passenger binds the tie rod and track bar worse and going driver frees up the track bar, but the tie rod hits the front of the diff.


Scenario 4: Raise both wheels evenly
* The track bar hits the diff at the frame side mount at 4" of bump stop.
* Turning passenger binds the track bar with the tie rod and the track bar with the front diff cover
* Turning driver, I can go to about the same amount as before with the track bar free of the tie rod, however, the track bar hits the diff cover and the tie rod hits the sway bar end link mount on the axle.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 02:20 PM   #1598
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Your axle is too far forward and your diff cover is huge. Shorten all 4 control arms by 1/4" and put your stock diff cover back in place. Re-evaluate.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 02:27 PM   #1599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aTX427 View Post
I am glad this thread is still alive, because I need some major help.
Is your front axle centered left-to-right at ride height? It looks like its shifted to driver side.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 06:34 PM   #1600
aTX427
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your axle is too far forward and your diff cover is huge. Shorten all 4 control arms by 1/4" and put your stock diff cover back in place. Re-evaluate.
Imped, you are the man! Everything clears, except the track bar to diff cover with both wheels stuffed and at full stretch with the wheel hard driver. I don't have my stock diff cover, so I ordered a Barnett. Should be here next week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glook View Post
Is your front axle centered left-to-right at ride height? It looks like its shifted to driver side.
I was off by about 3/8" to the driver side, so I opened up the track bar by two turns, which has me even based on my measurement points. The bump stops seemed a bit more even before and look a bit off center now (laterally). It also seems like the knuckle would hit the spring if I could compress this much (which I cannot). The first is the driver side and the second is the passenger side. Should I leave it be, go back to where it was or go in one turn? The track bar frame mount side is now clearing the diff, but not by much. I am worried that if I go back to where it was, I will hit again and I did not stretch it with the control arm changes before the track bar change, because it was off by a little bit.



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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:47 AM   #1601
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Guys, what do you think about my track bar situation
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:51 AM   #1602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aTX427 View Post
Guys, what do you think about my track bar situation
reinstall the bumpstop cup on passenger side. push the axle to full bump. make sure the shocks aren't bottoming out too. add bumpstop extension as necessary.

the axle won't be centered at full bump or full droop. you want it centered at ride height.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 07:25 AM   #1603
aTX427
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Cool, I'm looking good. Will update when I receive my new diff cover.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 09:40 AM   #1604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
reinstall the bumpstop cup on passenger side. push the axle to full bump. make sure the shocks aren't bottoming out too. add bumpstop extension as necessary.

the axle won't be centered at full bump or full droop. you want it centered at ride height.
Is there a reason Mopar didn't configure the bumpstops to be centered at full bump? Just curious.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 09:53 AM   #1605
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Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Is there a reason Mopar didn't configure the bumpstops to be centered at full bump? Just curious.
It has nothing to do with Mopar. It has everything to do with geometry and packaging. Think about it a little bit.

It doesn't hurt one little thing....the bump stops still have plenty of contact area.
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