tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 106 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-22-2013, 07:07 AM   #1576
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
UCA =15.25+/-
LCA =15.75+/-
ok, you basically have a whole bunch less caster than stock and have the axle sucked back into the wheelwell pretty far (hence minimal diff clearance issues). any idea what the actual caster spec is?

for reference,
stock arms:
UCA = 15"
LCA = 15.75"
caster = 7

my Jeep:
UCA = 15"
LCA = 16-1/8"
caster = 6.5

I'd suggest shortening the uppers to 14.75"-15", and extending the lowers to 16-16.25", to get some caster back. you'll be amazed at the difference in drive-ability. of course you'll need to check full bump again. post pictures again.

side note: based on your profile, it looks like you may have cut the control arm mounts off and welded new ones in place, so arm length may be slightly different...but that's a place to start, and see what caster results. what is obvious though, is the reason you don't have clearance issues like the rest of us is because you've pulled the axle back in the wheelwell (whether by bracket position, or arm length, or combination of both). this is well confirmed by the tire rubbing, bumpstop alignment, drag-link and track bar positioning shown in your previous pictures.

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Unread 03-24-2013, 06:35 PM   #1577
The_Dealer
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Ok so im about to beat the s**t out of this dead horse. I'm running 3" bds front coils, and re adjustable ca s except I'm running re fixed rear lowers. I have 2" bumpstops. I'm planning on going with one or bilstein shocks. I'm running skycrapper hydro's for 1-3" lift now and they are too short. I want a adjustable track bar for the front. I have a d30 front with stock cover, and if I do upgrade covers it will be an arb(can get em cheap from work) . What bar will work best for me? Right now I'm bumped to where at full stuff I'm 1/4" of tire clearance, and id like to not have to lose any more stuff. Other specs in sig. Any input? I want to keep it as cheap as possible. Meaning id rather not spend 500 if I can spend 200
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Unread 03-24-2013, 06:39 PM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Dealer View Post
if I do upgrade covers it will be an arb(can get em cheap from work) . What bar will work best for me?
as already shown in this thread, nothing fits with an ARB cover, unless you significantly modify/cut/weld/grind much of the face.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 03:31 AM   #1579
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Teraflex TB ... 3" suspension lift ...

before adding the final hard bump stop extensions (1.5") for my new shocks I was running the OME N66 in the front (only prothanes) ... slight rubbing of the Teraflex TB at the stock D30 diff cover:

img_0022.jpg

img_0023.jpg

As you can see the rusted rubbing mark did not get "updated" anymore for quite some time.

Alarmed by Unlimited04's remark and link lately in another thread (and curious, why my TB contact seems less severe) I just went out to take some measurements.

WTF ... another proof that you need to do everything yourself :

passenger side control arms:
U 14 3/4
L 15 3/4

driver side:
U 15 1/8
L 16 3/8

3 months ago I gave my heep to a shop here to put my new currie adjustables and Bilstein shocks in ...
now I am not wondering about my front tires cupping badly and a very slight pull to the right anymore

super maaaaaad ... (but now after finding this, they have to put my new currie TJS TB in place ... for free )
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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:11 AM   #1580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
Teraflex TB ... 3" suspension lift ...

before adding the final hard bump stop extensions (1.5") for my new shocks I was running the OME N66 in the front (only prothanes) ... slight rubbing of the Teraflex TB at the stock D30 diff cover:



As you can see the rusted rubbing mark did not get "updated" anymore for quite some time.

Alarmed by Unlimited04's remark and link lately in another thread (and curious, why my TB contact seems less severe) I just went out to take some measurements.

WTF ... another proof that you need to do everything yourself :

passenger side control arms:
U 14 3/4
L 15 3/4

driver side:
U 15 1/8
L 16 3/8

3 months ago I gave my heep to a shop here to put my new currie adjustables and Bilstein shocks in ...
now I am not wondering about my front tires cupping badly and a very slight pull to the right anymore

super maaaaaad ... (but now after finding this, they have to put my new currie TJS TB in place ... for free )
good guess...
when they took arm(s) off, axle moved / rotated. instead of pulling /rotating back in place exactly where it goes, they just adjusted the arms to make them fit. probably figured you'd never notice.

thats the "downside" to adjustable arms. a bad mechanic can let the axle go wherever it wants, then make the arms fit.... instead of putting the axle where its supposed to go, then making the arms fit.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 05:34 AM   #1581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b0b11 View Post
good guess...
when they took arm(s) off, axle moved / rotated. instead of pulling /rotating back in place exactly where it goes, they just adjusted the arms to make them fit. probably figured you'd never notice.

thats the "downside" to adjustable arms. a bad mechanic can let the axle go wherever it wants, then make the arms fit.... instead of putting the axle where its supposed to go, then making the arms fit.
yup ... something like this ... but since I do not trust the whole set up anymore (front AND rear) ... and since I have read somewhere about the importance of simply setting the axles properly square ... and then adjust the CAs and TBs ... I most likely have to start all over again

I think I remember somewhere Blaine had described the process ... slight tolerances in frame mounts are not unusual?
(But then I know that stock control arms are all fixed and the SAME length lowers and uppers respectively )
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Unread 03-25-2013, 06:49 AM   #1582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
yup ... something like this ... but since I do not trust the whole set up anymore (front AND rear)
that's why you should do the work....check axle position, full bump, full flex, full droop, etc.

take a bunch of measurements at ride height of your front end (and rear eventually)...frame to axle, both straight and in an X pattern. If the measurements are equal, then your axle is centered. If not, then your axle position is hosed. pull the springs and check full bump, full droop, and full flex. make sure stuff fits/clears, post pics. I'll believe the track bar clears when I see it at full bump.

with regard to a simple short arm lift, the only thing I suggest using a shop for is to get a good alignment, and get an accurate print out of caster, toe, camber and thrust angle specs....so you can fix them.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:17 AM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
as already shown in this thread, nothing fits with an ARB cover, unless you significantly modify/cut/weld/grind much of the face.
Ok, so will I be ok with the stock cover?
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:37 AM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Dealer View Post
Ok, so will I be ok with the stock cover?
with the stock track bar? or?
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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:24 AM   #1585
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. off topic
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Unread 03-25-2013, 03:28 PM   #1586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
with the stock track bar? or?
Ok here's what I meant. My stock track bar isn't long enough, I was going to redrill 3/4" over per bds instructions, then plate it with a single hole(relocated hole in plate), but my stock trackbar is worn and starting to make noises. I get a little play but no dw
. What's a good trackbar that's easy on the wallet, that will work with my 3" bds coils, 2" bs, and stock cover
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Unread 03-25-2013, 03:34 PM   #1587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Dealer View Post
What's a good trackbar that's easy on the wallet, that will work with my 3" bds coils, 2" bs, and stock cover
didn't you read the thread? that's what has been explained for the last 100+ pages....Currie TJS/TJJ or JKS #126 with stock cover. Push the axle to full bump and figure it out.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:20 PM   #1588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
didn't you read the thread? that's what has been explained for the last 100+ pages....Currie TJS/TJJ or JKS #126 with stock cover. Push the axle to full bump and figure it out.
I think the first post in this thread should be updated with all updated info on the known scenarios and solutions.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:27 PM   #1589
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Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
I think the first post in this thread should be updated with all updated info on the known scenarios and solutions.
good idea. PM mudb8 and see if he's willing to update it.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 09:50 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
yup ... something like this ... but since I do not trust the whole set up anymore (front AND rear) ... and since I have read somewhere about the importance of simply setting the axles properly square ... and then adjust the CAs and TBs ... I most likely have to start all over again

I think I remember somewhere Blaine had described the process ... slight tolerances in frame mounts are not unusual?
(But then I know that stock control arms are all fixed and the SAME length lowers and uppers respectively )
That is why I stopped trusting the shops and started trying to do almost everything myself!
The quality of the shops is really garbage around here!

BTW, didn't you do the adjustment at the local Jeep Dealer workshop (WM) ?!
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