tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - Page 105 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-18-2013, 09:00 PM   #1561
HiKnee
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I did a 2.5 inch lift and saved a lot of $ and headaches. I cut the stock track bar (near the axle end) removed about a 1/4 inch of additional material then sleeved it with DOM. The DOM was cut on both sides at a 45 degree angle (more weld surface) and drilled in four spots to add rosette (spelling?) welds.

It did happen, although I have no photographs to back it up.

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Unread 03-18-2013, 09:10 PM   #1562
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland99 View Post
Ok backtracking jks 126 what steering mods
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj...l#post14582713

This is what I'm trying with my setup.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 09:10 PM   #1563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
0" or 8", it doesn't matter...if your junk doesn't work at full bump, then it doesn't work.

the only difference is as you go up in lift height, you also need more bumpstop extension, and eventually you reach a point where clearances are more forgiving.

also, lots of people with said higher lifts never check if their stuff clears or not, nor do they do anything with bumpstops, they just bash the heck out of the shocks and post a thread asking what kind of shocks are good because they keep killing shocks for some reason.

and T-Jay, you still haven't answered the previous questions....what's the upper and lower control arm lengths? how about caster?
Yea I know. It gonna be a few days before I get back in bear cave. Busy week for me in the office. I will post the measurements up when I get a chance though.

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Unread 03-18-2013, 10:31 PM   #1564
cleveland99
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OK so tell me if I have stock diff cover and go with jks or currie trackbar and my RC lift at 3.25 and factory bumbstop I should be ok or no help please lift is in the mail And Please dont respond that I have not been reading this thread because I have its just you guys go in to some other tech stuff I dont understand and I get lost and confused so please dont beat me up to bad in that regards
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Unread 03-18-2013, 11:58 PM   #1565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post
Yea I know. It gonna be a few days before I get back in bear cave. Busy week for me in the office. I will post the measurements up when I get a chance though.

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As mentioned before, keep your shocks in while you go to full bump too! I found that my OMEs needed about 3" of bumpstop up front or they would bottom out before reaching bumpstop.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 12:45 AM   #1566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYuen

As mentioned before, keep your shocks in while you go to full bump too! I found that my OMEs needed about 3" of bumpstop up front or they would bottom out before reaching bumpstop.
Wow! Now that's some serious extension!

If I do find that I am in fact sitting on the shocks at full stuff or flex its not that big a deal. These are at the top of my to-do list. These shocks are getting tired anyway.

image-1262069402.jpg
image-3030772557.jpg

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Unread 03-19-2013, 03:48 AM   #1567
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYuen View Post

As mentioned before, keep your shocks in while you go to full bump too! I found that my OMEs needed about 3" of bumpstop up front or they would bottom out before reaching bumpstop.
You must have the n66l with a 15.5" collapsed length. It's about the best you will find with 11" of travel. I have though about modified upper shock mounts to run them with minimal bse.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 03:59 AM   #1568
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland99 View Post
OK so tell me if I have stock diff cover and go with jks or currie trackbar and my RC lift at 3.25 and factory bumbstop I should be ok or no help please lift is in the mail And Please dont respond that I have not been reading this thread because I have its just you guys go in to some other tech stuff I dont understand and I get lost and confused so please dont beat me up to bad in that regards
You will need more then factory bse for that lift anyway with that long of a spring and a spacer on top. Doesn't this kit come with bump extensions?
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Unread 03-19-2013, 04:07 AM   #1569
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Originally Posted by T-Jay View Post

You said THOSE threads, no?

For the record, regardless of this or those threads,

4"+ lift...stock or aftermarket? What would you use?

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As some point it becomes a matter of convenience and in some cases strength as well. I have a jks 126 on my jeep now with 2.25" of lift. If I had known 7 years ago the things I have learned since I would have never bought my old re 3.5" lift which required me to drill out the frame side mount to 5/8". There is no going back once the drilling is done.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:39 AM   #1570
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Originally Posted by Holaday View Post
I am currious as to why I do not have contact on mine.
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I have to admit though I have never removed the spring to check.
Do I really need to point out the obvious?
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I wonder if my antirock is acting as a limit though
It's not. It doesn't even enter the equation when your axle is traveling straight up.
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My point exactly no two Jeeps are alike!
I've been around enough Jeeps that this statement and its overuse really gets on my nerves. Go take 5 different TJ's all setup identically. You'll get the same results +/- a very small variance....not enough to matter. My point--that statement has no weight when reviewing this subject. If you run a fat diff cover and poorly-designed track bar, you'll hit. Period.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:55 AM   #1571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland99 View Post
OK so tell me if I have stock diff cover and go with jks or currie trackbar and my RC lift at 3.25 and factory bumbstop I should be ok or no help please lift is in the mail And Please dont respond that I have not been reading this thread because I have its just you guys go in to some other tech stuff I dont understand and I get lost and confused so please dont beat me up to bad in that regards
Based on what I saw yesterday I think you would clear the diff but the trackbar may interfere with the tie rod. I do not know what all is in that lift but the easiest thing to do is to order a set of 2" RE bump extensions and check the bump when you install the lift.

Only 1 way to tell:
Setup the lift like normal and at ride height center the axle with the trackbar and adjust your control arms to where you want them... Then pull the springs out and push it up all the way.

JKS with 2" extensions and I feel like without them the trackbar end would be into the tie rod as it goes up 2 more inches.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 07:00 AM   #1572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland99 View Post
OK so tell me if I have stock diff cover and go with jks or currie trackbar and my RC lift at 3.25 and factory bumbstop I should be ok or no help please lift is in the mail And Please dont respond that I have not been reading this thread because I have its just you guys go in to some other tech stuff I dont understand and I get lost and confused so please dont beat me up to bad in that regards
as this entire thread is about, you need to push your axle to full bump and find out what the limiting factors are. stock diff cover, the JKS and Currie track bars are the best clearance options available. if you're confused and don't understand what that means, then you've got more learning to do. you may find my build thread useful, and you may also find the summary of this thread I did a few pages back useful. bottom line, push the axle to full bump and figure it out for yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LOCKED UP View Post
Only 1 way to tell:
Setup the lift like normal and at ride height center the axle with the trackbar and adjust your control arms to where you want them... Then pull the springs out and push it up all the way.

JKS with 2" extensions and I feel like without them the trackbar end would be into the tie rod as it goes up 2 more inches.
exactly.

the JKS 126 and Currie TJS/TJJ use different bends, different materials and are different track bars. both will need about 2" front bumpstop extensions if you don't do any mods. both can fit with less bumpstop extension with some steering mods, like a V8 ZJ tie-rod, and that Rusty's offset TRE posted before (but, it's a Rusty's product ), and possibly bending the V8 ZJ tie-rod (heat it up with a oxy-acet torch, use a 20-ton press, etc).
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Unread 03-19-2013, 08:01 AM   #1573
rda616
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I think teraflex also has a 22mm fine left hand thread with an offset and stock taper available now too. It's doubtful Rusty's makes their tre I would almost bet the tera one came from the same place. Looks well made , but little doubt it was made in China.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 09:31 AM   #1574
theremikegoes
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I wasnt happy to use a rusty's product either... I definitely looked for a moog product instead. Time will tell... I'm keeping a close eye on it. If someone can come up with a moog part number for a 22mm fine lh thread offset tre you'd be my hero. Just did an outing with lots of twisting and some at speed hits and got light rub where the coupler on the drag link is to the tie rod, I think when I adjusted drag link I didnt index the bolts far enough away though. Working great other than that and at a minimum the rusty's TRE is not instantly exploding.
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Unread 03-22-2013, 05:29 AM   #1575
T-Jay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04
0" or 8", it doesn't matter...if your junk doesn't work at full bump, then it doesn't work.

the only difference is as you go up in lift height, you also need more bumpstop extension, and eventually you reach a point where clearances are more forgiving.

also, lots of people with said higher lifts never check if their stuff clears or not, nor do they do anything with bumpstops, they just bash the heck out of the shocks and post a thread asking what kind of shocks are good because they keep killing shocks for some reason.

and T-Jay, you still haven't answered the previous questions....what's the upper and lower control arm lengths? how about caster?

UCA =15.25+/-
LCA =15.75+/-

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