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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineDISCOUNT - Chromoly Front Axle Shaft Kits, 87-95 YJ's, 97-GR8TOPS Introduces the Exogate HD Tire Carrier

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Old 03-25-2008, 10:18 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by mjstranz View Post
Dude did that steering box shear the b4 or after the wreck? If it did it b4 thats insane. Sweet build gonna watch this one.
Before. That's why he wrecked

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Old 03-25-2008, 10:21 AM   #47
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So why did you buy it again? Wouldn't it have been cheaper to go to a junkyard and pick up a frame and tub in good condition and started from there?
No....It wouldn't have. I got $1500 cash and gave him the CJ I had. I got a new soft top that he had bought the day before he wrecked it too. It has a clean title and almost all of the damaged areas I was going to **** can anyhow. Plus.....who doesnt' like a to see something brought back from the dead?
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:24 AM   #48
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I'm excited!!
I'm glad I'm going to be leaning on your pretty heavily You and my little girl are the only ones exicited. She calls it Lexi's jeep. I guess it's hers when I'm done Every day I wake up to a. Daddy, are we ready to make the crash jeep pretty?
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:06 AM   #49
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i love builds like this. Makes me want to finish up "project fireball"
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:20 PM   #50
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For you guys that have done the 350 swap. What motor mounts do you suggest. I've heard good things about MORE motor mounts but I went to their site and from the pics they don't look like they are worth the money Any suggestions on what Radiator to run with the stock 350? I don't want to run into overheating problems. I'd also like to know what others are doing running the 700r for their front shafts if you want to go 32 spline and clear the pan on the trans.

Thanks!

Todd
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:23 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Toxic TJ View Post
What motor mounts do you suggest.
Let's make a set out of tube, some flat plate, and some poly bushings. Shouldn't cost more than 15-20 for the bushings and they will be bomb proof. I wish I would have gone this way instead of buying mine from Novak. 120 bones is expensive. I will look for some pictures and post them up.

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Originally Posted by Toxic TJ View Post
Any suggestions on what Radiator to run with the stock 350? I don't want to run into overheating problems.
I'm running a CSF 3 row HD radiator and my junk stays around 185 year round. With the open fenders and that much space around the hood I doubt you will have any problems cooling your motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic TJ View Post
I'd also like to know what others are doing running the 700r for their front shafts if you want to go 32 spline and clear the pan on the trans.
Luckily you don't have to clear the pan like I did. Your pan should stick out the drivers side. Since you are running a chevy front 60 just clock your dana 300 flat and it should clear without a problem. I've asked powerdrive to make me a thick walled shaft and they said the thickest wall they go is .120. That's why I went to Jesse at High Angle Driveline. .25 walled shafts are the ticket. Of course it all depends on how far forward you wan to move your front shaft but it shouldn't be a problem clearing it with a good sized shaft.
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Old 04-07-2008, 05:16 PM   #52
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DANG!
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Old 04-07-2008, 06:49 PM   #53
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do you still have the old soft top. if you do would you sell the two pass side plastic clips that are sewn in to tuck in the door surround.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:10 PM   #54
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Can't wait to see this start to take shape!
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:53 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
Let's make a set out of tube, some flat plate, and some poly bushings. Shouldn't cost more than 15-20 for the bushings and they will be bomb proof. I wish I would have gone this way instead of buying mine from Novak. 120 bones is expensive. I will look for some pictures and post them up.



I'm running a CSF 3 row HD radiator and my junk stays around 185 year round. With the open fenders and that much space around the hood I doubt you will have any problems cooling your motor.



Luckily you don't have to clear the pan like I did. Your pan should stick out the drivers side. Since you are running a chevy front 60 just clock your dana 300 flat and it should clear without a problem. I've asked powerdrive to make me a thick walled shaft and they said the thickest wall they go is .120. That's why I went to Jesse at High Angle Driveline. .25 walled shafts are the ticket. Of course it all depends on how far forward you wan to move your front shaft but it shouldn't be a problem clearing it with a good sized shaft.
One more "You da Man"!!! I need to start picking up my phone and not making posts. Thanks again Andy!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:57 AM   #56
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do you still have the old soft top. if you do would you sell the two pass side plastic clips that are sewn in to tuck in the door surround.
I have a new soft top and the old one will be off soon. I found a windshield frame and glass on pirate for 150 bones. I needed that before I could put the new top on. I'm geting it shipped tomorrow and it's in GA. Next week I will have it and should have the old top off. Let me know what exact pieces you want off of it and we will work something out. The pass. side of it is great. But the zipper on the drivers side upper (the one used the most) has come un sewn. Take a pic of what you need and I'll give you a great deal.

Todd
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:01 AM   #57
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Oh nice, you did get a good deal on that! I love to see something brought back from the dead, but I thought you paid for the wreck..

How did you manage to get a clean title out of that?!
The guy I bought it from was fresh out of the service. A good guy He saved up his money while fighting for our great country to buy a jeep when he got back home. He paid cash for it and didn't have full coverage on it. The steering box sheered droping the pitman arm to the highway at 55 mph. He had no steering at this point. It went over the concrete median and into the trafic on the other side of the highway. He almost died. Because of the beefy front (ugly) bumper the airbags didn't deploy and the damage was much more minimal than it would have been had he not had the tube bumper. He had it towed home and never turned the title into his insurance. Thus.........Clean title.

Todd
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:04 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
Let's make a set out of tube, some flat plate, and some poly bushings. Shouldn't cost more than 15-20 for the bushings and they will be bomb proof. I wish I would have gone this way instead of buying mine from Novak. 120 bones is expensive. I will look for some pictures and post them up.
Andy.....Do you think I will need a body lift to clear anything. I'm hopeing not. I want to see just how low I can get this dude to sit. And with the highline hood that I called on yesterday I think we will be able to pull that off.

Thanks again bro!!

Todd
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:08 AM   #59
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need these but for pass side please.
jeep-008.jpg 

jeep-009.jpg 

jeep-010.jpg 

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Old 04-08-2008, 04:32 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Toxic TJ View Post
Andy.....Do you think I will need a body lift to clear anything. I'm hoping not. I want to see just how low I can get this dude to sit. And with the highline hood that I called on yesterday I think we will be able to pull that off.

Thanks again bro!!

Todd
Depends on how much you want to cut out of your floor to clear the Dana 300. Without a body lift you will have to clearance more of the firewall to get around the transmission. There are lots of gains by adding a body lift. If I were to do it again I would add a 2" body lift and not cut a huge hole in the floor.

The height will really depend on your suspension geometry and how much you want to cut out. Getting it really low takes quite a bit more work.
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