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Titan Engines

9K views 69 replies 20 participants last post by  prjohnson 
#1 ·
I couldn't find anyone with any input regarding Titan Engines Reman High Performance Engine. Unfortunately My jeep cracked a piston skirt last week, so I just ordered this engine this morning:

http://www.titanengines.com/remanufactured-high-performance-jeep-4-0-242-engine/

The guy I spoke with on the phone, John, Was very helpful & answered a bunch of my questions. Hopefully the rest of the experience will continue to be as good. I'm looking at two weeks from today to have it at the shop, then probably another few days before I get it back.
 
#5 ·
I had considered doing a 350 swap, but was trying to minimize my downtime. In the past with rebuilds, I haven't had the best of luck. Ideally I would have liked to gotten another car & parked the jeep for a few months to go through everything. I opted to hold off on another car & invest into the jeep. Kids, work, house improvements, my time just isn't there to be committing to a major job myself. Quotes from engine shops were crazy though. Talking 3500 for a 100k motor plus install, or 3950 for a reman motor plus install. 1900 for the motor, 200 shipping, 800 for install is what I'm looking at, but I've got a list of stuff they're fixing over the next couple weeks.

wonder what the"high performance" part is. just domed pistons to slightly raise the compression, which could require higher octane fuel?
I imagine I'll have to use higher octane fuel, but since I have such a short commute & only drive the Jeep a couple days a week, it's not a huge concern to me.
As far as the HP part, it's a different cam, valves, springs, pistons & retainers. Right now I'm sitting on 33 MT/R's with 373 gears. I was told that's where the cam will help more than anything.
 
#14 ·
I don't have any experience with the Titan replacement engine, but I've gone through a Golen 4.6L Engine swap recently. I love the engine, but in a nut shell engine replacement comes with a lot of extra expenses beyond the cost of the long-block and labor. You figure if it's coming out anyways, what else can be done at the same time.

With Golen there is no core charge, nor sales tax due to their location in NH. They are California Emission Compliant, they build around 100 per year, and they've been building them for over 10+ years. 3 year unlimited-mileage warranty, as well.

Granted I am still early-on with having one of their engines installed in my Jeep. So far so good. Wish you luck with the Titan.
 
#15 ·
in a nut shell engine replacement comes with a lot of extra expenses beyond the cost of the long-block and labor. You figure if it's coming out anyways, what else can be done at the same time.

Granted I am still early-on with having one of their engines installed in my Jeep. So far so good. Wish you luck with the Titan.
Yeah, had a rather large tab this morning at the parts store...manifolds, water pump, break in oil & mounts. Plus they're fixing the A/C that I never hooked back up after replacing the heater core. Replacing my old never serviced u-joints & fixing axle leaks. I'm this deep in, might as well have them take care of everything.

The engine was shipped Friday & is due at the shop around Wednesday. I'm pretty excited & will let ya'll know how it goes.
 
#17 ·
No & it doesn't even look like it's offered. That part gives me a slight uneasy feeling since it's said that the warranty is voided if proper break is not performed, including break in oil. I ordered some Lucas break in oil (Read it's very high in zinc) & am trying to read about the proper way to go about breaking it in. I haven't been able to find anything on Titans site.
 
#19 ·
I'm fairly certain it's just for the cam shaft to break in. Most have you run the engine, with break in oil and after the oil pump is primed, at an elevated RPM for a duration of time. Like Mousejockey said, their procedure should come with the paperwork.

Golen indicates to run a zinc additive to the oil for every oil-change, due to the flat-tappet lifters. Titan mention anything along those lines? Again, I'm just curious. I like to see other TJ owners changing engines. :smile2:
 
#20 ·
All 4.0L engines in these Jeeps have flat tappets. That's why a lot of people recommend high zinc oils like Valvoline VR1. However, on their FAQ page at http://www.valvoline.com/auto-resources/motor-oil-faq-racing, they say their racing oils are not intended for passenger vehicle use, that high zinc levels mess up catalytic converters, and specifically...

"What is the controversy surrounding the amount of zinc in motor oil?
The controversy exists as a result of many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts belief that lower levels of zinc in API SN and SM motor oils can cause excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. They hold this belief despite the fact that all new motor oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible."
 
#21 ·
Reminds me of the time I bought a case of Brad Penn to run through for a couple changes. Honestly thought the jeep ran poorer with that stuff in it and much better when I went back to whatever 5W-30 was on sale at the parts store when I was doing an oil change. I realize break-in of a new engine is different but I still found it interesting.
 
#23 ·
With the Golen, they indicate that you use a zinc additive at every oil change, for the life of the engine. Not just break-in.

Don't know how long Titan has been making their engines, but Golen has been making them for 14 years and swears by the zinc additive. To each his own. Personally, I'll run the zinc additive for every oil change. My previous engine had lifter tick from 60k all the way up until 210k when it sounded like a wrist pin was failing. Used every oil additive under the sun, to no avail, with the older engine.

I'd inquire to Titan about it, but that's just me. My engine was broken in with Joe Gibbs Break-In Oil.
 
#25 ·
You can do what you want. Maybe there are invisible hands (EPA?) unduly pressuring oil companies to lie to your face, telling you not to buy their more expensive racing oils for road going passenger car applications with emissions systems compared to dedicated racing applications with no emissions systems, and lying to you that engine lubrication standards are designed to provide sufficient lubrication even in the oh so trying environment of a TJ. But it seems like removing the heavy filter of confirmation bias and campfire wisdom might be a good thing, here. I don't think it's The Man telling engine manufacturers to recommend against E-85 in engines not designed for them or to limit biodiesel to 20% only for the benefit of Big Oil, either.

I think it's safe to take it at face value that the armies of engineers dedicated to developing engine oil might be a little more in the know on the subject than a small engine rebuilding shop who couldn't care less about the ancillary effects of their recommendations and simply don't want to hear about every little noise from their customers that are suddenly hyper aware of their engines (and have a built in excuse to deny warranty claims).
 
#27 ·
I should be picking up the Jeep this afternoon. I'm still slightly uneasy about the break in procedure. They recommend using Rotella Diesel 10W30 with Lucas break in additive. Bring it up to 1500 RPM & hold for 15 min. Then he said to drive 500 miles. I didn't ask & he didn't say if I should change the oil between that 15 min run & the 500 mile trip. The shop is doing the 15 min run in. You guys think I'll be good driving it the 10 miles home, changing the oil, then drive the 500 miles? Or, should I change it prior to the short trip home? Seems like wasting oil, but I want it done right.
 
#28 ·
Since you're taking their word for it, and they're the ones doing the warranty service, call them and ask. My guess is you'll be just fine not changing the oil till after the 500 miles. But that's just a guess, and I don't know what they'll say. How much does it cost you to change the oil? Cheap insurance?
 
#31 ·
The cam introduces higher pressures on the cam lobe. This is why you need high zinc additive added at every oil change. Go read the stroker forums and you will see that the major cause of failure is cam failure due to this issue.

Its lime 7 bucks for the additive. I do it every time on my atk stroker and it runs perfectly many thousands of miles later.

Brian
 
#33 ·
Well, I took off Friday to pick up the Jeep & was able to rack up around 130 miles this weekend. My first impression on cranking it up was how quiet it was! It has a very slight exhaust rumble, but nothing that would make you think anything different. Driving it, I was trying to not get into it until I'm able to do the 500 mile oil change, so performance is a little tough to judge. One thing I did notice fairly quick is that it likes the RPM's to be above 3k & it chugs up hills a bit better, but I'm still keeping the RPMs very modest right now. Bottom line is that everything is running fantastic & it's great having A/C again. All in all, I feel like I got a good deal on a solid motor. My total labor cost only ended up being 927. Totally worth paying someone this time. I'll update after I change the oil in a few hundred miles. Pictures? Well, since they forgot to paint it red, it still looks like a regular ol jeep engine.
 
#36 ·
I'm not sure if it's totally normal, but it's running slightly above the 210 mark when the AC is on & drops back down when I turn it off, but is still very slightly on the right side of the line. I popped the hood & it is HOT! Even the prop arm is very hot. Just doesn't seem right. It has been in the low 90's outside if that makes a difference. I'm going to try to check the antifreeze in the reservoir tank better when I get home. It's so old & stained that you really can't see through the side to check it.
 
#37 ·
Will share my experience so take it as you will. I live in Florida and have experienced the same with my 4.7 stroker. It nevers tops 217 for me and is mostly at highway speeds. At idle or on the trail it hovers at 207. I dont get too worried but am adding an oil cooler soon which I think will be the edge I need.

I believe the stock cooling system isnt enough for the increased performance.

I have an all new cooling system with mopar parts by the way so that isnt the issue.



Brian
 
#38 ·
My 4.6L runs at the same temperature as the factory 4.0L. It did run hot for a few hundred miles while it was breaking in. It has an new OEM thermostat and radiator. However, I hardly ever use the A/C. I know those add more stress to the engine and could raise the temperature. BTW, I went through 3 Mishimoto radiators within a years time before I swapped the engines. Would not recommend those as an upgrade.

Bwestfla, a oil cooler is a good idea - never thought about adding one.
 
#44 ·

Thanks for the post.

While I we understand your concerns based off of feed back from other members, we can assure you that there are a lot of customers who have not had any issues with our products.

If anyone has ever had an issue, we have a lifetime warranty and can guarantee you that our customer service reps will do everything in their power to help.

Feel free to contact us directly at, Support@Mishimoto.com, and we will be happy to answer any questions, or address any concerns you man have.

Best regards,
Mishimoto
 
#41 ·
I can only tell you that I have been chasing a cooling problem since I installed my stroker. I only experience it in 90 plus temps with ac on at highway speeds above 2k rpms.

To make sure it wasnt a defective part, I have replaced every single cooling system part with Mopar parts. Radiator, pump, hoses, etc.

I have thermal scanned the radiator and it has no hot spots. The radiator is doing its job, but the high compression engine is producing more heat than the coooling system was designed for. That is my fault by building the engine I did. My stock motor ran cool in all conditions before the rod started knocking even with a rust filled nasty system.

I need to find more cooling capacity and I have no faith in the aftermarket radiators.

All that said, if there is advise to be given I am open.

Brian
 
#42 ·
I can only tell you that I have been chasing a cooling problem since I installed my stroker. I only experience it in 90 plus temps with ac on at highway speeds above 2k rpms.

To make sure it wasnt a defective part, I have replaced every single cooling system part with Mopar parts. Radiator, pump, hoses, etc.

I have thermal scanned the radiator and it has no hot spots. The radiator is doing its job, but the high compression engine is producing more heat than the coooling system was designed for. That is my fault by building the engine I did. My stock motor ran cool in all conditions before the rod started knocking even with a rust filled nasty system.

I need to find more cooling capacity and I have no faith in the aftermarket radiators.

All that said, if there is advise to be given I am open.

Brian
Has anyone tried playing with the fuel delivery? It may be running a bit lean which will create excess heat. A slightly richer a/f mix should run a little cooler.

Heat wrapping exhaust? Hood louvers? Adding an electric fan in front of the radiator to help the mechanical one?

A quick test I sometimes do is pour some water over the radiator while it's running hot and see if that makes a dramatic enough change.

Another thing I'd look into if I'm making more compression is an aluminum head. Edelbrock has one for just under an arm and a leg. Have a wife you don't need anymore?

But seriously, it's not a stock engine by any stretch so why would a stock cooling system be adequate? Seems like cooling is the biggest problem with a stroker.
 
#46 ·
My problem with an oil cooler is what if I'm out on a trail somewhere (or anywhere) & the thing fails & leaks? Will I know it's leaking if I'm driving? I'd almost rather keep an eye on the temp, try louvers, or a dual fan setup. That being said, it's been running right on 210 & I'm just shy of 400 miles. About a month prior to replacing the engine I had to replace the radiator.

The engine is still running great! Gas mileage (not that I really care) is about 10mpg.
 
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