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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:52 AM   #31
UncleWilson
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emev0l View Post
Now you have the right idea, the best way to look at when you need a double cardan drive shaft is the drive shaft angle. The angle on a TJ becomes to harsh somewhere between 2.5" and 3.5" of lift. Pushing your transfer case up for a tummy tuck also starts to put the drive shaft on a bad angle.
So going with a JKS 1.25"BL and 1" MML along with a Rokmen TT, that gives me 2.25 at skid (so say Rokmen web page). How much lift change does the actual t-case see? I would thinkthe t-case only sees the 1.25" change from BL, and rest is made up of skid plate geometry.

Anyways I've decided to start with the JKS 1.25"BL and 1" MML along with a Rokmen TT. I will run this until the 31's till they need to be replaced. Then I will be going to 33" with a 2.5-3.5" suspension lift with new cv driveshaft. The reasons for going 33's and not 35's (at this point in time) are timing (when the 31' will need replacing) and cost. If i decide to upgrade down the road i'll go with hi-line fenders to accomidate the tire change, along with all the changes to shafts, gears, brakes, etc.

Thank you all very much for you knowledge and wisdom. If you're interested I'll update with photos and status along the way.

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2006 LJ Rubi JKS BL/MML, Curries 4", UCF Skids, Riddler, 35 GY MTR W/K, Black Rock 909's, Black Magic, Rokmen Sliders, Savvy GTS, Savvy Lights, Metalcloaked, 4.88

www.stu-offroad.com
TJ Alignment Videos
Currie Control Arms Install Tips
Off Road Tips Techniques

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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:56 AM   #32
emev0l
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
So going with a JKS 1.25"BL and 1" MML along with a Rokmen TT, that gives me 2.25 at skid (so say Rokmen web page). How much lift change does the actual t-case see? I would thinkthe t-case only sees the 1.25" change from BL, and rest is made up of skid plate geometry.

Anyways I've decided to start with the JKS 1.25"BL and 1" MML along with a Rokmen TT. I will run this until the 31's till they need to be replaced. Then I will be going to 33" with a 2.5-3.5" suspension lift with new cv driveshaft. The reasons for going 33's and not 35's (at this point in time) are timing (when the 31' will need replacing) and cost. If i decide to upgrade down the road i'll go with hi-line fenders to accomidate the tire change, along with all the changes to shafts, gears, brakes, etc.

Thank you all very much for you knowledge and wisdom. If you're interested I'll update with photos and status along the way.
It will raise the transfer case around 2", you have some room above your transfer case now.

My AEV tummy tuck doesn't use a body lift and raises my skid 2.5". There able to make that happen with there low profile transmission mount. It mounts the transmission and transfer case very close to the skid, instead of it being an inch away from the skid. I'm not sure if they can do that will all transmissions for sure or not, but I know no body lift is needed for most.

Either way, the setup you decided on will work great and will give you a good foundation to build on later.

If you run a 1.25" body lift with a 3" suspension lift you will have enough room for 35" tires.
__________________
2001 TJ 4.6 Auto 4.5" AEV suspension 35's
2002 TJ 4.0 Manual 3" BDS suspension 33's
1987 Chevy 1 Ton 12" suspension 44's
1970 Cutlass 442 468CID TH400
1999 7.3 Powerstroke
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Unread 07-16-2010, 10:00 PM   #33
UncleWilson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
3) I'm a fan of lower suspension heights and maximum clearance while being able to adjust to any changes so put a full set of adjustable control arms on the list too. With 2.5" of susp. lift, 1.25" body lift, and a Rokmen skid, I've got 17" under the belly. I'm making a flat skid that will get me to 19". The transfer case is seeing the same angle as ~7" of suspension lift. Personally, I don't feel comfortable running higher driveline angles than that on a SWB TJ. With more suspension height + a flat skid, I'd break that rule and the angles would be too high for my comfort. The CV would bind before full droop as well.
IMPED - Does that mean your recommendation for max T-case to Diff would be ~7"?

If that is true high clearance Skid (AEV or Rokmen) leaves me with up to 4.5" suspension lift capability.
However you will have a lower CG with AEV over the Rokmen due to special trans mount on AEV.

I've read more about different types of lifts. Main take away is to spend the money for quality rather than settle. I may be interpreting the next part but, with a SA it's best to keep it sub 4". Okay, now my 4.5" suspension lift capability is down to a 4” max.

The next step when it involves the control arms (I think) is the control arm design. I understand the stock CA’s are meant to only accommodate vertical loads. However, with suspension articulation there are lateral and torsional forces applied to the CA’s and the CA mounts. I believe this is there the JJ's come into picture. Honestly this is the part that is blowing my mind. CA’s with JJ’s are able to absorb some of the load based on the joint movement mechanics. That is freakin’ sweet!

Some other questions more related to the needed steering modifications. Depending on the lift height when do you need to add (if at all) a drop pitman arm? Is an adjustable track bar is needed for any lift height?

I will 90% be going with 33's (35 involve a lot of other work and sound overwhelming as it’s my first build). If later I wanted to go to 35's I would prefer to be able to fit the tire without going HiLine fenders (can’t find definitive documentation about fender laws in MI, but I do travel to state that require fenders ie MN). With that said, what would be a good suspension size to go with in an effort to keep a low Cg?

Are the JJ’s offered and any reputable suspension lift kit other than the 4” Currie? If not, is it a piece together job to use the JJ’s (example, Rokmen arms with, OME Springs and Shocks, “name brand” adjustable trackbar, etc)? Would it be cheaper to piece it together like that?

If the Currie is the only "complete" kit, would it be a better idea to use the AEV TT instead of the Rokmen
?
__________________
2006 LJ Rubi JKS BL/MML, Curries 4", UCF Skids, Riddler, 35 GY MTR W/K, Black Rock 909's, Black Magic, Rokmen Sliders, Savvy GTS, Savvy Lights, Metalcloaked, 4.88

www.stu-offroad.com
TJ Alignment Videos
Currie Control Arms Install Tips
Off Road Tips Techniques

o[__Q_]o
(OIIIIIO)
[]==O==[]

Last edited by UncleWilson; 07-16-2010 at 11:00 PM.. Reason: brain fart
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Unread 07-16-2010, 11:15 PM   #34
emev0l
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2001 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
IMPED - Does that mean your recommendation for max T-case to Diff would be ~7"?

If that is true high clearance Skid (AEV or Rokmen) leaves me with up to 4.5" suspension lift capability.
However you will have a lower CG with AEV over the Rokmen due to special trans mount on AEV.

I've read more about different types of lifts. Main take away is to spend the money for quality rather than settle. I may be interpreting the next part but, with a SA it's best to keep it sub 4". Okay, now my 4.5" suspension lift capability is down to a 4” max.

The next step when it involves the control arms (I think) is the control arm design. I understand the stock CA’s are meant to only accommodate vertical loads. However, with suspension articulation there are lateral and torsional forces applied to the CA’s and the CA mounts. I believe this is there the JJ's come into picture. Honestly this is the part that is blowing my mind. CA’s with JJ’s are able to absorb some of the load based on the joint movement mechanics. That is freakin’ sweet!

Some other questions more related to the needed steering modifications. Depending on the lift height when do you need to add (if at all) a drop pitman arm? Is an adjustable track bar is needed for any lift height?

I will 90% be going with 33's (35 involve a lot of other work and sound overwhelming as it’s my first build). If later I wanted to go to 35's I would prefer to be able to fit the tire without going HiLine fenders (can’t find definitive documentation about fender laws in MI, but I do travel to state that require fenders ie MN). With that said, what would be a good suspension size to go with in an effort to keep a low Cg?

Are the JJ’s offered and any reputable suspension lift kit other than the 4” Currie? If not, is it a piece together job to use the JJ’s (example, Tokmen arms with, OME Springs and Shocks, “name brand” adjustable trackbar, etc)? Would it be cheaper to piece it together like that?

If the Currie is the only "complete" kit, would it be a better idea to use the AEV TT instead of the Tokmen
?
I suppose an AEV skid would lower the center of gravity ever so slightly over a skid that would require a body lift raising it up a little more, but honestly I don't think you could feel any difference with such a small change.

There both great companies, if your building a jeep with a body lift go Rokmen if your building one without go AEV.

UCF even makes a nice skid, I don't know if Savvy has one for your transmission yet.

I run a 4.5" lift on short arms, I don't have any problems but I really wouldn't suggest going anymore then that, the control arm angles start to get pretty mean.

You never need to run a drop pitman arm unless you have an aftermarket drop track bar bracket. Usually only vehicles with leaf springs in front run drop pitman arms.

You don't need an adjustable track bar but if you want to do it right you really should. You can use a rear trackbar relocation bracket and you can re-hole in your front axle to align the axle correctly. I would just get a set of good adjustable track bars.

As far as fender's in MI, you can do anything you want, I've never had a problem or heard of anyone having any issues. I have a pickup on 44's and the tires stick out a foot from the body and cops never say anything other then "I'm not sure what the law is on height, but I'm pretty sure that's to tall"

When it comes down to it, as long as your high enough that your not dragging the lower the lift the better, it's always better to have the largest tires on the smallest amount of lift as long as your frame and belly aren't so low that the palaces you wheel keep you from doing things.

Currie has the most complete lift that uses JJ arms, they invented JJ's. Some people piece there lifts together to get exactly what they want, I did, Imped did, but it will be cheaper to buy a complete lift from one company.
__________________
2001 TJ 4.6 Auto 4.5" AEV suspension 35's
2002 TJ 4.0 Manual 3" BDS suspension 33's
1987 Chevy 1 Ton 12" suspension 44's
1970 Cutlass 442 468CID TH400
1999 7.3 Powerstroke
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