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Unread 12-17-2008, 10:50 PM   #16
SuperWade2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim View Post
rattle the rear drive shaft when you try to shift with the rotator plate.
Thanks, that helped...

I'm "guessing" that this would be in the 2LO position as the shifter would be all the way back (if I were sitting in the rig) and the rotator plate would be most forward (towards the engine). In this position the shifter bracket is going to rub (sits directly on) on the threaded rod and the tip is shoved into a hose bracket



...and this is probably 2H with the Shifter in the most forward position and Rotator Plate furthest back (toward rear of Jeep)


Do I need to shorten the threaded rod (I think I have end all the way into the Heim Joints, but maybe could screw in a little further...

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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:02 AM   #17
Jerry Bransford
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I had to cut my threaded rod Wade, that looks a bit long. And doing so will move the threaded rod further down away from the cane clamp.
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I had to cut my threaded rod Wade, that looks a bit long. And doing so will move the threaded rod further down away from the cane clamp.
You remember how much you lopped off (approx?)...

I will take it back off and confirm that the ends are threaded in all the way also...
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:08 AM   #19
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Wow, this is really dissuading me from getting the Novak shifter....
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Wow, this is really dissuading me from getting the Novak shifter....
Don't let my ineptitude give you a negative impression of what I believe will be a good product once I get it installed and adjusted properly... I am really this stupid to have to ask all of these questions...The product shouldn't be blamed for that...

It's what I get for paying someone to do more of the work on my Jeep than I should have...which I'm changing now...
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Unread 12-18-2008, 11:16 AM   #21
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I know it's not the product but I also know that it's a real pain to get these set up correctly. I'll be watching this thread....good luck with getting everything aligned. I'm sure you'll get it.
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Unread 12-18-2008, 01:16 PM   #22
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Thanks for posting you pain.. its going to be a big help when i get mine to install..

After i get the brakes sorted out. the new skid plate welded up, the lower arms and motor mounts risers put in..

on 2nd thoughts i had better print this out now as i dont know I'll find it again but the time I'm ready..

Again thanks for the photos. i could not see in my mind how it was going to go in.

Dave
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Unread 12-18-2008, 01:27 PM   #23
Jerry Bransford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
You remember how much you lopped off (approx?)...
No but I just measured approximately how much threaded rod is showing between the heim joints and it's roughly 5 1/2". It was pretty hard to get my steel ruler up where the threaded rod is so I couldn't read it precisely but it's very close to that 5.5" of threaded rod that is showing between the heim joints.
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Unread 12-18-2008, 01:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
No but I just measured approximately how much threaded rod is showing between the heim joints and it's roughly 5 1/2". It was pretty hard to get my steel ruler up where the threaded rod is so I couldn't read it precisely but it's very close to that 5.5" of threaded rod that is showing between the heim joints.
Thanks Jerry... that will at least give me a frame of reference to target...

You have the 32RH/NP231 now also correct? Our measurements should be similar I think...
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Unread 12-18-2008, 01:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
You have the 32RH/NP231 now also correct? Our measurements should be similar I think...
Yep, perzactly.
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Unread 12-20-2008, 03:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
No but I just measured approximately how much threaded rod is showing between the heim joints and it's roughly 5 1/2". It was pretty hard to get my steel ruler up where the threaded rod is so I couldn't read it precisely but it's very close to that 5.5" of threaded rod that is showing between the heim joints.
Just got my threaded rod removed and I was already at less than 5.5" showing, as it was installed in the previous pics (unless you were measuring the center point of each of the joints...)

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Unread 12-20-2008, 03:43 PM   #27
Jerry Bransford
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I was measuring the part of the threaded rod that shows between the nuts, I'd have to assume that 5" is just as good where this is concerned.
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Unread 01-06-2009, 09:33 PM   #28
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Jerry... Is this connection tightened down as far as you can take it, and if so I have to assume it still pivots there OK?



I just took my "Maiden voyage" and the shifter rattled something fierce and I need some adjustments to my bend because I have 2H 4H and N sort of and nowhere close to 4L or 2L before it hits the tub or console...

SW2
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Unread 01-17-2009, 11:37 AM   #29
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I'm TOTALLY regretting ever messing with this install...

I'm no where near close to getting this thing workable and I'm just tired of F'ing with it... I don't have a torch hot enough to even think about bending the cane, so have had to have a 4x4Club member help with a couple of the bends, which are no where near right yet.

If my stock shifter setup hadn't been bent to crap when I took it off, I think I'd put it back on today...

I'm SO frustrated right now... We have a club run coming up in a couple weeks and I got 2H and 4H and N and no where NEAR close to being able to shift into 4L much less 2L... The handle in 2H sits WAY to high, so I bashed my hand when trying to shift... In 2H, the cane sits about 1/2" from the front edge of the body opening...

I thought about doing another bend (red line) to see if that helps give me enough room to pull it down into 4L at least...I also considered shortening (cutting) the threaded linkage rod a little more thinking that it might decrease the throw distance between the gears... but



Here is the N position, which you can see is at the back of the console...

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Unread 01-17-2009, 11:44 AM   #30
Jerry Bransford
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I feel your frustration, you know I had the same problems getting mine bent properly as well. Dang, I wish I had a photo of the final bend that is working for me. If I didn't have to remove my full-length skidplate and RE belly pan to get it out, I'd remove it and take a photo of it for you. I should have done that when I had to remove it to tack-weld it to the bracket.

It would be worth it to go to your local hardware store to buy a MAP torch kit. I don't recall what it costs but $40 or so rings a bell. It has a bottle of oxygen and a bottle of map gas and together, they produce a hot enough flame to bend the cane. Good luck man, I know getting my Novak shifter working properly wasn't one of my more fun projects either.
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