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#1 | |
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Registered User
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time for a scary thread
OK it might just be scary to me. But I am sure others out there will find this thread beneficial.
I am interested in the following mods but I only have a rough idea as to what this might cost me...i work full time and love my rig but its time to make it more capabable off road. So I might look into getting a small loan to pay for this so I need ball park pricing as to what I can expect in terms of $$$ Here is what I currently have D30/35 3:73 2inch BL 33's. Here is what I would like D44/44 or 8.8 front and rear with 4:56 and arb front and rear locked.. and yes I am aware this is going to be very expensive...from what I listed what am I looked at for parts and labour...? I dont care if your out a 100 either way...I am just looking for ball park pricing on this future upgrade?? also how good will this setup be...am I along the right thinking with this upgrade?
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#2 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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What kind of wheeling do you plan to do with your rig? While upgrading the rear axle is usually a good idea, swapping the front out is not needed all that often. It's usually only with some very extreme rock crawling when swapping out the front axle becomes thinkable and even then it's not always necessary. Me and most of my friends are still running front Dana 30 axles that have only been upgraded with stronger axle shafts, u-joints, and manual hubs for wheeling some pretty difficult rock crawling trails.
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Gone to King of the Hammers, back Sunday! Jerry's Geezer Jeep II Website Getting Savvy... Coolest offroad magazine ever! CRAWL Magazine When you have a choice, buy American.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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hey Jerry,
Thanks for the advice...i was just told from others on the board that doing everything at once will save me money down the road...i just dont want to have to touch the under side of my jeep again after I do this mod...other then armour of course. so my D30 will be fine with 4:56 and an arb locker? so another words I can leave the front as the D30 and just do the back..and I am still fine with locking the fronts and backs with the arb locker? and if so...what am I look at price wise for something like this? |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Thats good to know about the front axle. I have been wondering if most people just stick with their D30 and go with a Hub Conversion kit.
I have been trying to peice together build up #1. It will consist of new rear axle, lockers front and rear, and new gears. I wanted to get a new rear axle so with built up #2 i can go with 35's and a bit bigger of a lift. While we are on the subject. I keep going back and forth with the super35 kit or just replacing the rear axle with a D44 or 8.8. Any thoughts? Sorry for Hijacking, but thoght it was an appropriate question for this thread. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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TJSUE,
Nope not at all...i am in the exact same boat...i want arb air lockers and a regear as well as a new rear axel.... but like yourself...i am not sure which axel is the one for me...although I think I ruled out the super 35..seems for the money why not just go with D44... so D44 or 8.8 with 4:56 gearing and lockers? what does everyone think? |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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i JUST WENT TO 4WHEEL PARTS JUST TO PRICE A SUPER35 WITH ARB AND WAS ABOUT 800.
i KNOW YOU CAN GET A USED D44 OR 8.8 FOR A LOT CHEAPER AND JUST ADD AN ARB. ALSO THE 8.8 NEED A LOT OF WORK TO WORK FOR A TJ. SPRING PERCHES, ETC. I HAVE HEARD A LOT OF GOOD THINGS ABOUT THE 8.8, THOUGH. VERY STRONG. I WANT TO DO THIS ONCE. ***I AM FAIRLY NEW TO ALL THISSO PLEASE CORRECT ANY INFO OF MINE IF I AM INCORRECT!!!!!**** |
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#7 |
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DAJC.......Get stuck!!!!
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800 bucks seems like a good deal, I had a buddy who spent much more then that for a detroit super 35. How much for the install?
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"rejected by the signature police" |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I am not sure how much the install was. I didnt ask. I would attemp to do it my self, other than the gears. I know they are having a 20% dscount off of installs this month.
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#9 | |
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tubework is cool...
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Quote:
another option for the front it to get a HP30 from the front of an XJ...I just picked one up for free last week... if you've got to buy new gears, maybe a carrier, and a locker...it's not any more money to do for a HP30 than a regular D30... the HP30 is a direct bolt-in replacement that uses stronger reverse cut gears and also gains a couple inches of ground clearance for the diff housing... the HP30 can use the same shafts as your D30 now, so I assume any upgraded shafts/u-joints/hub conversions can be done on the HP30 as well... Greg
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2001 TJ 60th Anniversary Edition (details in Profile) www.carolinarockshop.com All the pics I have...including a Table of Contents |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Feel free I didnt even notice how bad of a speller I was. Must be the fact that I am to sneak all my post while I am working. Priorities Interesting about the HP30. So is that just a carrier replacement?? I am going to look it up right now. Wait. HP30 = High Pinion 30 right? |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Yea the HP stands for High Pinion. Im swapping my old HP30 in from my Cherokee when I go to the 5.5 inch RKLA. Bob
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1996 Land Rover Discovery with a bunch of stuff on super swampers |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Everything I have seen indicates that High Pinion pumpkins can have trouble with proper lubrication. True or false?
If true, that would be a big factor for the decision....
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JEEPLESS... :( |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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why waste all the money on a dana 30 when you can build a dana 44 for the same price, and have a stronger axle all around.
dana 30: (these prices are from memory) hub conversion 800 30 spinle arb kit 1200 ctm ujoints 300 gears 250 (with install kit) 2550 for just the parts and I am sure all of you guys are gonna need the axles set up for you as well dana 44: (LP's are a waste of time) axle 100-350 (I got my hp44/9" for 400 bucks) rebuild: 300 arb:750 alloy shafts: 600 ctm's: 300 gears:250 tj brackets: 25 (make your own they are cheap) thats 2575 for parts, but labor would be alittle more in this case since you have to weld on the brackets. most likely you could find some local wheeler to help you with it for cheap or some beer so for roughly the same price you have a all round stronger axle, stronger ball joints , housing, gears and you can easyly do a hi steer set up pretty cheap so that saves you from buying curries hd crap that bends anyway |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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TJCamo,
So your still suggesting I take the D30 out still...thats what I thought as well...why keep that weak thing in there, if I am taking out a loan I mine as well just do it all at once and never have to worry about it... from what I have been reading I am so excited about the arb lockers...they sound amazing... TJCamo...i will admit I know the main parts but the little things...I get lost on...i would love for someone to tell me exactly what I need for this upgrade...as I cant install this myself. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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Here's another option no one has mentioned. I just put 4.56 gears and ARBs in my D30/44 Sahara. I went with a Superior Super 30 axles and ARB kit in the front. You get the same size axle shafts as a D44. You're still stuck with a small R&P from the D30 but that's really not a problem if you don't go lower than 4.56. Unless you do pretty extreme wheeling or are overloaded and in a bind you shouldn't have any trouble with this combination. Of course YRMV.
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John L92/6L80 98 TJ From the wilds of Northern Arizona |
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