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Unread 07-11-2010, 09:09 AM   #16
extsp2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robncar View Post
Just curious, why do you recommend the positive cable first?
i'm curious too. i've always disconnected the neg. first and connected the neg last.

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Unread 07-11-2010, 09:26 AM   #17
MikalCarbine
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The only TPS that need to be tuned are for older models, i.e. YJ's. I think your mechanic ripped you off. The TPS for TJs are simply a variable resistor which does not need tuning. To the OP, try the ECU reset (I heard 10 hours of battery pull should do it) and also measure the reference voltage (pin 1) of the TPS. This should be 5v. I'm going through a similar problem without the codes however. There are also several key grounding points for this and other sensors. Like mentioned before it could be the clock spring but IIRC this mostly effected 97s. I have a document I just created labeling all of the ground points on the 4.0, I'll post it up when I get back on my pc. There is this grounding point on the back side/passenger side of the block under the spark plug rail that is also very important to this sensor, try cleaning that
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Unread 07-11-2010, 10:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine View Post
I have a document I just created labeling all of the ground points on the 4.0, I'll post it up when I get back on my pc.
I'd like to take a look at that...it sounds pretty useful.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 10:42 AM   #19
zachbh
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Guess you're going to pay mechanics a lot of money, then. I say dive in and learn how to do it on your own, and put the money you save in shop labor rates back into your Jeep in forms you can actually use...

I hate hearing that you got ripped off, man.
The thing is, I did. I replaced it, followed all the instructions the FSM gave me, and was careful to make sure the shaft was correctly positioned. And somehow it still got srcewed up . Frustration ensued afterwards...

I learned my lesson. I'm embarrassed, but I learned my lesson.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 11:51 AM   #20
gatesjeff33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outatime05 View Post
Always do a PCM reset/flash after replacing any input sensor:

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.

2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.

3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.

4. Turn the key to on but do not start.

5. Turn the headlights on.

6. Turn the headlights off.

7. Turn the key off.

This forces a PCM flash to factory-start specs; over the course of the next 50 warm-up cycles, it will update parameters and fine-tune everything.
I did this and it did not help

Quote:
Is your horn and cruise control (if equipped) working? Airbag light on? The feed for TPS goes through the clockspring, so it can cause that error code too. May not be your issue but worth a check
My cruise control does not work! My horn works and my airbag light is not on. Please tell me more about what the next step is, what do I check or replace?


I just want to say thank you to everyone who has provided input on this, my field service manual(Haynes) has not been helpful with this problem.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 11:59 AM   #21
OldFatGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robncar View Post
Just curious, why do you recommend the positive cable first?
+1

Removing the negative cable is safer and accomplishes the same thing.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 12:52 PM   #22
MikalCarbine
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No cruise control sounds like your clock spring may be bad, worth looking into at least. You can change it yourself but you need to pull your wheel and the job appears to be a PITA. Still on my phone but when I'm back later I have a link that goes through the process step by step with pictures, you can find it on google.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 04:27 PM   #23
gatesjeff33
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OK! So I left my top down and water got all over my jeep. I probably should have mentioned this...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/my...ng-huh-168215/

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillArf View Post
In an earlier post here I posted info on what a "Clock Spring" is in relationship to a motor vehicle. I originally posted that it was important to not let your clock spring get soaked or you may have major headaches with your TJ. YES, if you have say your TJ top off and the steering column on your TJ gets quite wet/soaked you may end up with water in your clock spring. Symptoms of a wet clock spring are varied. They range from a horn that won't stop honking, air bag light always on, various lights on that shouldn't be and you cannot turn them off to other weird happenings. Many times these symptoms stop after many hours of the vehicle drying out but often other times the clock spring is completely ruined and has to be replaced. A clock spring for a newer TJ costs approx. $100.00+ and the dealer will charge you another $100+- to install. SOooooo, best bet is to try to keep your clock spring dry. Some guys/gals that are aware of the clock spring issue always keep say a piece of plastic with a towel or bandana lying over it on their TJ's steering column in a tent like fashion. Some others just don't worry about it but.....
Yeah... so how long until it dries out? If it's been a week and I still have problems should I be buying a new clock spring??

On that thread I posted, one guy recommends to just clean it out, what do you guys think?
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Unread 07-11-2010, 06:35 PM   #24
gatesjeff33
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and my oil pressure is maxed out at 80 now... FML!!!
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Unread 07-11-2010, 07:01 PM   #25
MikalCarbine
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Your oil pressure *may* be an artifact from the clock spring. A good way to verify that would be to hook up a scanner to your ECU and see what that says for a pressure, if monitored by the system

I'm back on my PC now so here's the document with the ground points for the 4.0, if there is an interest in it I will clean it up but I just threw it together yesterday as a reference in the garage... JF doesn't allow non-image attachments so it's on megaupload

MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service

Also here is the guide on the clock spring replacement

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/fa...39/index3.html

Doesn't look to fun to be honest, if you end up doing it let me know. Here's another without images

Airbag clockspring repairs

You may want to take the cover off of your steering column to help aid the drying, it's worth a shot imo. I've also read that you can disconnect the clock spring or something for testing purposes
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Unread 07-11-2010, 07:24 PM   #26
gatesjeff33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine View Post
Your oil pressure *may* be an artifact from the clock spring. A good way to verify that would be to hook up a scanner to your ECU and see what that says for a pressure, if monitored by the system

I'm back on my PC now so here's the document with the ground points for the 4.0, if there is an interest in it I will clean it up but I just threw it together yesterday as a reference in the garage... JF doesn't allow non-image attachments so it's on megaupload

MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service

Also here is the guide on the clock spring replacement

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/fa...39/index3.html

Doesn't look to fun to be honest, if you end up doing it let me know. Here's another without images

Airbag clockspring repairs

You may want to take the cover off of your steering column to help aid the drying, it's worth a shot imo. I've also read that you can disconnect the clock spring or something for testing purposes
yeah, oil pressure is reading normal again. I figured It would have blown up or ran odd if the pressure was actually that high.

Thanks for those links. I would have dove into the repair without a steering wheel puller if I hadn't read those.

I am going to pull the cover off and put a fan on it... Maybe I will get a full recovery by tomorrow morning. I will let ya'll know how that goes!

Last edited by gatesjeff33; 07-11-2010 at 08:02 PM..
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Unread 07-12-2010, 09:21 PM   #27
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Unread 07-13-2010, 06:49 PM   #28
gatesjeff33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outatime05 View Post
If resetting the PCM did not clear the code permanantly, then it is very possible you have a wiring continuity problem. (short/open in TPS circuit.) The only way to find out if this is the case is to connect a code scanner (not reader, a scanner) to take a look at the actual TPS voltage while in operation. (See exactly what the computer sees to find out why it's barfing.)

This explains the recurring problem despite numerous TPS replacements. I have seen this before and it's usually a bad connection somewhere in the upstream circuit. I've also seen this as a result of wriing loom damage after a rebuild and reassembly.

Old thread, I'll probably not see the outcome, but I wish you well.
This is a very recent thread, it would do you good to read through the whole thing. I initially had problems following a rain storm where I left my top down. I believe that the clock spring got wet and maybe affecting the TPS(my cruise control is out and this is a sign of a wet clock spring).

It typically acts up while accelerating and rarely while driving at highway speed.
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Unread 07-13-2010, 08:01 PM   #29
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Unread 07-13-2010, 08:05 PM   #30
gatesjeff33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outatime05 View Post
Dry the clock spring and if the problem vanishes, you're the genius. My 50+ years of automotive repair experience should remain confidential; I am a fool for profering advice.
The problem occurred immediately after my jeep got rained on. So if the clock spring is not the problem than it is just one big coincidence.
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