Throttle Issues - TPS, O2, or what? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-21-2010, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
valj1999
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Throttle Issues - TPS, O2, or what?

I'm new to the forum and need help!! My recently purchased 99 is starting to go crazy on me. A couple weeks ago it started to occasionally bog and sputter when accelerating and shifting. Usually I could push in the clutch, let off the gas, rev it, and then carry on. I replaced the plugs, wires, rotor with no change. Now it has begun to hold the acceleration level when I let off the gas to shift (but only when I first take off in it), and the idle will drop off to the point of almost stalling. But it does none of this stuff consistently! I thought the bogging and sputtering might be the fuel pump but now with the 'revving' I'm thinking TPS. I tried to research it and found where it could be an O2 sensor also? The guy that had this before put a cold air intake and a throttle body spacer on it with some sort of power box thing. Could that be affecting it somehow?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-21-2010, 09:11 PM
George Dickel
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Several things come to mind here.
First, welcome!
I checked out your profile and find it lacking but that's OK for now. If you really have a V6 in there, that's interesting and improbable. The CAI and spacer are useless. I'm not certain if the spacer would ever cause any issues but it's not going to add anything positive to the motor. I'm guessing the "power box thing" you refer to is a performance module of some sort. Again, not of much use but shouldn't cause any problems.
Any number of sensors could cause the issues you're experiencing. Replacing the TPS is not a bad start. Personally, due to the cost of O2 sensors, I would probably replace all of the sensors on the throttle body before I replaced them. Located on the throttle body are the idle air control sensor (the thing directly on the outside of the idle air slit in the mouth of the throttle body), the MAP sensor which is directly opposite of the IAC, and of course the TPS (which is opposite of the throttle cable connection). There is also a intake manifold air temp sensor that screws into the manifold not too far away from the TPS.
Now, what do I think it is? Probably the TPS and/or IAC. Hard to say without being there. Are you throwing any codes?
Search some more if you don't want to start tossing cash. It's been a while since I've had any run-ins with these sensors.

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12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, 5.875" Connecting Rods, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Ford Blue-top Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Accel Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust, Balanced Rotating Assembly, Custom PCM tune.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-21-2010, 09:15 PM
Blueshoes2208
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i dont suppose your check engine light ever comes on so you could take it to autozone and let them test it for free?
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-22-2010, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
valj1999
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Sorry for the lack of info on my profile.... like I said, I'm a newbie. It is the V6. On the CAI and the power module, I wondered what they may be adding. The CAI making a lot of noise (sucking air) is all I notice. As far as my issue goes, it has not thrown any codes yet which I thought was odd. (The light does work though) What gets me is that is doesn't do any of these issues consistently. Today after work it drove perfect! But just a bit ago I ran down the street and it practically died on me. I've read that the TPS needs to be adjusted when installed... is this something anyone can do or does it need to be hooked to a scantool or something?
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-22-2010, 09:14 PM
kehoe
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I only have experience with the TPS sensor going on mine. When my TPS went bad, the jeep had a lot of symptoms very similiar to yours (bogging and revving for no reason), BUT my check engine light was on and coding for the TPS.

I don't know about the TPS being adjusted. I went to advanced auto and picked up a new one for ~$40 or so I believe and plugged it right in.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-23-2010, 06:14 AM
George Dickel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valj1999 View Post
Sorry for the lack of info on my profile.... like I said, I'm a newbie. It is the V6. On the CAI and the power module, I wondered what they may be adding. The CAI making a lot of noise (sucking air) is all I notice. As far as my issue goes, it has not thrown any codes yet which I thought was odd. (The light does work though) What gets me is that is doesn't do any of these issues consistently. Today after work it drove perfect! But just a bit ago I ran down the street and it practically died on me. I've read that the TPS needs to be adjusted when installed... is this something anyone can do or does it need to be hooked to a scantool or something?
There is no adjustment needed when replacing the TPS. Remove the old one, install the new one. You just need to follow the quick directions supplied. Now, let's talk briefly about your engine....is it long and skinny? That's an Inline 6. The V6 came much later in these new JKs you see riding around. We TJs have either a 4 banger or a large tractor engine (I-6).

Before you replace anything, try this: go to the local parts store or Wal Mart and buy a can of Sea Foam. It's gonna be about $8. Pour that into a full tank of gas. Run it through and see if things get better. You may just have some terribly dirty fuel injectors. Don't ask questions about the cheaper injector cleaners...just go buy the Sea Foam and do that. It may take the entire tank of gas to notice a difference. Good Luck

'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker
12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, 5.875" Connecting Rods, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Ford Blue-top Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Accel Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust, Balanced Rotating Assembly, Custom PCM tune.
Yeah, I built it!

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post #7 of 14 Old 07-23-2010, 06:26 AM
Sundowner
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Yep, sounds like a dirt/grime issue to me...clean it all out as suggested. Or, use Seafoam Spray directly through the intake to uber-clean your throttle body. Also, check the connection to your TPS...it could be going out on you. Always check for fouling and/or bad connections before you replace parts. Don't ask how I know that.

P.S. Unless your cold-air intake goes through the cowl, you might as well get rid of it...unless you like the noise.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #8 of 14 Old 07-23-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
valj1999
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Thanks to everyone for the responses!! I'm gonna get the Seafoam and check the connections and see what happens. I thought about the connection too, especially with it being very inconsistent. I'll let you know if there are any immediate changes!
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-24-2010, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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And it's the inline 6.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-24-2010, 10:10 AM
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You might also buy a can of throttle body spray cleaner and clean that thing up real well.Just follow directions on the can.
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-08-2011, 02:23 AM
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Did you ever find out what your problem was? I am having the EXACT same issues.
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post #12 of 14 Old 09-10-2011, 08:16 PM
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Bueller?
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-10-2011, 08:36 PM
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Another thing you can do with the SeaFoam is what it says on the container... Run the engine till warm... Normal operating temperature. While it's idling carefully fill the intake ( that means you have to remove the airduct from the throttle body to do this) with about a third of the can making sure it doesn't kill the engine as you are pouring. It'll run rough but that's normal. After that shut it off and wait at least 10-20 minutes. During this time you can re-install the airduct. After that, start and ride around for a while as it'll be smoking out of your pipe. You'll have a smoker for a few minutes depending on how much Seafoam was able to clean out. After this, the idle should be smoother.

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/l ,[___],
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Originally Posted by malligator View Post
Troll? I was just jokingly responding in kind. Wow, talk about thin-skinned folks. Nice to see sirgildus can bypass the profanity filter and mrblaine can make bawdy jokes with impunity.
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post #14 of 14 Old 09-10-2011, 10:46 PM
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Another thing you can do with the SeaFoam is what it says on the container... Run the engine till warm... Normal operating temperature. While it's idling carefully fill the intake ( that means you have to remove the airduct from the throttle body to do this) with about a third of the can making sure it doesn't kill the engine as you are pouring. It'll run rough but that's normal. After that shut it off and wait at least 10-20 minutes. During this time you can re-install the airduct. After that, start and ride around for a while as it'll be smoking out of your pipe. You'll have a smoker for a few minutes depending on how much Seafoam was able to clean out. After this, the idle should be smoother.

1994 ZJ 4.0 Limited
1998 TJ 4.0 Sport (Mrs. Jones)
/l ,[___],
l--L --OlllllO-
()_) ()_)-o-)_)



Quote:
Originally Posted by malligator View Post
Troll? I was just jokingly responding in kind. Wow, talk about thin-skinned folks. Nice to see sirgildus can bypass the profanity filter and mrblaine can make bawdy jokes with impunity.
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