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Unread 03-17-2013, 12:40 PM   #1
Elganja
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I bought my 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport (D30/D35) almost a year ago.. the previous owner lifted it 4inches + 2inch body lift (6inch total) and put 33's on it, but did nothing else ... since then I have added a Smittybilt XRC front and rear bumper w/ tire carrier and their XRC winch.. and some wetolky seat covers.

Now I'm ready to move on to 35inch tires... I think... and I want to do it right... I've been looking around and found a bunch of parts and the general direction I want to go... So I'll first start off with that list:

-G2 TJ D44 Front Axle Assembly 4.56 ratio Eaton E-Locker
-G2 TJ D44 Rear Axle Assembly 4.56 ratio; With Eaton E Locker With Disc Brakes
-35/12.50R15, ProComp Xtreme MT2*x 5
-Currie Anti rock Sway Bar Kit
-Currie Johnny Joint Adjustable Front Trac Bar
-Polyurethane Bump Stops*(figured it would be a good idea to replace these)
-Tom Woods Double Cardan Front Drive Shaft
-Tom Woods SYE kit w/Rear Drive shaft
-Currie Heavy-Duty Tie Rod System
-Centric Rotors and Black Magic Brake Pads
-Currie Rear Trac Bar

A couple of notes:
-I much rather have the simplicity of the e-locker despite the 2 pin vs 4 pin for the Dana44 ... and it is ~600 bucks cheaper then the ARB equivalent
-I plan on using the wheels I currently have*
-I also priced out just going with a super 35 and super 30 kit w/ lockers and so forth... price difference was minimal (esp considering the labor saved assembling

With all said and done with labor ... I'm looking at about 10k invested in my TJ... a bunch of dough... I want to have all my ducks in a row...

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Unread 03-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #2
BYuen
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That's a good start. I would get rid of that 2" body lift and go down to a 1". You don't really need a D44 up front. Your Dana 30 will handle 35s just fine. I would also look at upgrading your front brakes. At the very least go with Centric Premium rotors and black magic brake pads, or ideally go with the Vanco big brake upgrade kit. This allows you to run 48mm dual piston calipers from a Ford Explorer Sport Trac. I like my D44 Elocker. Works great and haven't had any issues with it for several years now.

EDIT:

Also, for 35s and the 5 speed NV3550, 4.88 gear is ideal for daily driving! I have the NV3550 and 35" tires with 4.88s and it is the perfect match.
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Unread 03-17-2013, 01:59 PM   #3
Elganja
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Thanks for the info... so added to my list:

-Centric Rotors and Black Magic Brake Pads
-Currie Rear Trac Bar

As for the gears.. I keep going back and forth with 4.56 and 4.88... I just don't like the idea of 65mph and ~2300rpm vs 2000rpm w/ the 4.88.

Hell I've dealt with 3.73's and 33inch tires for a year ... It can't be much worse then that... haha
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Unread 03-17-2013, 02:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elganja View Post
Thanks for the info... so added to my list:

-Centric Rotors and Black Magic Brake Pads
-Currie Rear Trac Bar

As for the gears.. I keep going back and forth with 4.56 and 4.88... I just don't like the idea of 65mph and ~2300rpm vs 2000rpm w/ the 4.88.

Hell I've dealt with 3.73's and 33inch tires for a year ... It can't be much worse then that... haha
You want the rpms of 4.88's.
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Unread 03-17-2013, 02:32 PM   #5
BYuen
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Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
You want the rpms of 4.88's.
X2. With the larger circumference and mass of the 35s, 2000 rpm at 65 is not enough.
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Unread 03-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #6
Elganja
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Originally Posted by BYuen View Post

X2. With the larger circumference and mass of the 35s, 2000 rpm at 65 is not enough.
alrighty... I'm sold

how about upper and lower control arms?
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Unread 03-17-2013, 04:13 PM   #7
BYuen
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Originally Posted by Elganja View Post
alrighty... I'm sold

how about upper and lower control arms?
I wouldn't run anything other than arms that have Currie Johnny Joints or Metalcloak Duroflex bushings at the ends. Anything else just doesn't last. I'm in the process of replacing my Rubicon Express control arms with arms that have Johnny Joints at both ends (gold standard of control arm ends). Rokmen, Savvy, and Currie all sell control arms with Johnny Joint ends. Metal Cloak sells their own arms. The Metal Cloaks are relatively new, so they aren't as "time proven" as the Johnny Joints, but so far no one has said anything bad about them.

If you are going to consider the Duroflex bushings, here is a good thread on them:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ho...ks-up-1482467/
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Unread 03-17-2013, 04:24 PM   #8
Elganja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYuen View Post

I wouldn't run anything other than arms that have Currie Johnny Joints or Metalcloak Duroflex bushings at the ends. Anything else just doesn't last. I'm in the process of replacing my Rubicon Express control arms with arms that have Johnny Joints at both ends (gold standard of control arm ends). Rokmen, Savvy, and Currie all sell control arms with Johnny Joint ends. Metal Cloak sells their own arms. The Metal Cloaks are relatively new, so they aren't as "time proven" as the Johnny Joints, but so far no one has said anything bad about them.

If you are going to consider the Duroflex bushings, here is a good thread on them:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ho...ks-up-1482467/
thanks... seems like Currie is the answer to a lot of my questions... will take a look at metalcloak too
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Unread 03-17-2013, 04:27 PM   #9
Wheelin98TJ
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Why are you buying the front driveshaft?
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Unread 03-17-2013, 04:35 PM   #10
Elganja
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
Why are you buying the front driveshaft?
was told it was a good time to upgrade from a stock front DS to a Tom Words Double Cardan driveshaft

was also worried about lengths going from a d30/d35 to d44/d44
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Unread 03-17-2013, 05:11 PM   #11
pmcjeep
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You could save a bunch of money by just doing a d44 or 8.8 rear with a front hp30 and still run 35s just fine.
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Unread 03-17-2013, 05:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmcjeep View Post
You could save a bunch of money by just doing a d44 or 8.8 rear with a front hp30 and still run 35s just fine.
X2, thats what I will be doing with my TJ
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Originally Posted by my_304_cj7 View Post
I used Marvel once before I took my Jeep out on the trails. I didn't get stuck all weekend so I guess it works.
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Unread 03-17-2013, 06:25 PM   #13
Elganja
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Originally Posted by RobsCrawlin7 View Post

X2, thats what I will be doing with my TJ
I've looked into that and it's nearly a wash after you add in all the parts the g2 comes with ( front d44 w/ e-locker is 2500)
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Unread 03-17-2013, 08:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Elganja View Post

I've looked into that and it's nearly a wash after you add in all the parts the g2 comes with ( front d44 w/ e-locker is 2500)
A hpd30 from an xj is free or cheap. Your choice of locker, and you are good to go. An 8.8 can be had for $100, with disks and an LSD. Throw a locker in if you like and you're good to go. Total swap costs for the front $0-$100, total for the rear $800 give or take.

Even if you add arbs or ox's and gears you are still less than half of two g2's
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'79 CJ7 PICS HERE specs in profile - SOLD
'01 TJ 4.7/NV3550, 4" lift 33's stroked
'98 Chili Pepper Red XJ Sport, 4.0, AX15, 4x4 3" lift, 31" AT's
'79 CJ7 stock, 304

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Originally Posted by my_304_cj7 View Post
I used Marvel once before I took my Jeep out on the trails. I didn't get stuck all weekend so I guess it works.
SSG David Mejias, SSG Eric Vick, SGT William Bowling, SGT Robert McDowell
1 April 2007
Rest In Peace Brothers
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Unread 03-17-2013, 09:02 PM   #15
Elganja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsCrawlin7 View Post

A hpd30 from an xj is free or cheap. Your choice of locker, and you are good to go. An 8.8 can be had for $100, with disks and an LSD. Throw a locker in if you like and you're good to go. Total swap costs for the front $0-$100, total for the rear $800 give or take.

Even if you add arbs or ox's and gears you are still less than half of two g2's
then add in the labor to get it all done..

I hear where you are coming from, but I'd rather get something complete from the get go and not deal with the hassle of piecing things together myself
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