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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:55 AM   #1
duhamel17
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SYE/Flatter Skid ?'s

Little background: 2000 Sahara, 4.0L, 3 speed auto, 4" lift, motormount lift, transfer case drop. I am starting to get components to go with a flatter skid plate. I do not want to go completly flat since I do not want a body lift (personal reasons). I can't aford all the components at once, so my thought was to get a SYE, driveshaft, and rear uppers for now, and then in the future, get the flatter skid. This would allow me to get rid of the huge skid drop I have now. My questions are, will the drive shaft work when I eventually get the skid I want, and will I need front adjustable controls arms? I have read a ton of threads and can't seem to find anything on the fronts. Thanks for the help.

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Unread 05-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #2
ctorres018
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Regardless the skid, flat or not you will want a body lift unless you get a no body lift skid from UCF which is a lot of money to gain maybe an inch. So if you get a skid that might not be completely flat, your still raising everything up. The reason for the BL in a TT is to make room so that everything is not so tight. Your going to run into other problems with out the body. Instead of getting rear uppers, SYE and cv shaft and then the skid I would get rear uppers, SYE, cv shaft, and BL. Once you have all that pick the skid you want. Don't rush things just because you want a belly up if your not going to do it right.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 02:23 PM   #3
rikkards
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I did the same thing. I did my Sye and drive shaft last year and Ucf UHC this year. I did a BL couple years ago so I was able to do the skinniest skid. If you are truly averse to doing a body lift you may wwant to look at the LOPro transmission mount
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Unread 05-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #4
ctorres018
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The lo pro mount won't be a good option unless you plan on doing modifications since its for manual trannys.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #5
rubicon17
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dont buy from ucf, i had a no bl skid that hit my tub and trans bell housing and was told i cant return it because its used. his **** doesnt even work the way its advertised.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #6
durango-bob
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You will not need adjustable arms in the front with what you are doing. The front driveshaft is long enough so the effect from removing the tcase drop is minimal.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 05:31 PM   #7
WKdeuce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon17 View Post
dont buy from ucf, i had a no bl skid that hit my tub and trans bell housing and was told i cant return it because its used. his **** doesnt even work the way its advertised.
My 1/4" aluminum UCF skid is bent up and it's not even a year old.
Something to consider if you plan to use it as a skid plate.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 06:57 PM   #8
duhamel17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durango-bob View Post
You will not need adjustable arms in the front with what you are doing. The front driveshaft is long enough so the effect from removing the tcase drop is minimal.
Thats what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info
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Unread 05-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #9
rubicon17
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Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
My 1/4" aluminum UCF skid is bent up and it's not even a year old.
Something to consider if you plan to use it as a skid plate.
yea i feel better with the stock skid on, alot more solid and less bull****, ucf is a waste of money, just look at how many people have to cut and notch skids to get them to fit, thats bs. on top of selling me a no body lift skid and telling me it will work on my rubicon when it clearly will not.

op why not just ditch the tcase drop and use the factory skid with your sye and driveshaft?
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Unread 05-09-2013, 08:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon17

ucf is a waste of money, just look at how many people have to cut and notch skids to get them to fit, thats bs.
Expecting everything to be bolt on and work without modification in all combinations of setups is not realistic, in particular when topics start getting advanced. A little cutting or notching is nothing. Comments like this are why JF gets ripped for being light weight.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:14 PM   #11
rubicon17
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its expected when the owner tells me it will work on my rig, i wouldnt call the mods required by the few who recently posted in earlier threads as little, if thats the case they should come like that.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 07:47 AM   #12
duhamel17
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Originally Posted by rubicon17 View Post

op why not just ditch the tcase drop and use the factory skid with your sye and driveshaft?
This is how I am going to start out, then I may make my own which would be a little shallower than stock, and be flat instead of stamped. I should be able to gain a bit over stock and not have to use a body lift. At least that is the plan. We'll see how it ends up. I mainly wanted to make sure I had all the parts required to do this and not find out the hard way I needed something else.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 09:01 AM   #13
rubicon17
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if you can make your own crossmember that would be ideal, i wish there were factory style replacements that just gave more coverage and were flat.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 08:11 PM   #14
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Personally I don't see the big deal with having a crossmember. The last time I took off the skid was last year when I put on my SYE and almost 3 years before that and when I did that I just threw a jackstand under the transmission. I mean to each their own but it isn't so bad.
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Unread 05-11-2013, 09:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkards
Personally I don't see the big deal with having a crossmember. The last time I took off the skid was last year when I put on my SYE and almost 3 years before that and when I did that I just threw a jackstand under the transmission. I mean to each their own but it isn't so bad.
As you said, to each his own. Personally, in winter when not wheeling much and I have a laundry list of things to fix or new mods to do llove being able to just remove skid and drive for weeks/months without it. Makes it easier to knock things off the to do list each weekend when I'm not taking skid on and off each time.
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