Stock TJ auto shifter and GM 4L60E tranny? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 09-24-2017, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
Vinman
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Stock TJ auto shifter and GM 4L60E tranny?

Who has successfully used a stock TJ auto shifter with the GM tranny? I know I've seen it done on here in the past but cannot remember who did it and cannot find any info.

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post #2 of 18 Old 09-24-2017, 08:49 PM
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Who has successfully used a stock TJ auto shifter with the GM tranny? I know I've seen it done on here in the past but cannot remember who did it and cannot find any info.
I tried to make one work with a 4L70 and gave up when it got too involved to cut apart the gates and build new ones. Too many stops and too much throw needed to make the stock shifter work.

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post #3 of 18 Old 09-24-2017, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Blaine.
I really wanted to keep the stock look but if it's too difficult or doesn't end up operating as smooth as stock I'll get a Art Carr-Winters shifter and be done with it.
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-25-2017, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinman View Post
Thanks Blaine.
I really wanted to keep the stock look but if it's too difficult or doesn't end up operating as smooth as stock I'll get a Art Carr-Winters shifter and be done with it.
Smooth won't be the issue. There isn't enough throw in the cable. With the shifter you picked, there is a shift lever that has a slot so you can adjust the throw that way. I had a stand alone version and it was more than I had the patience for to get the gates cut right. P N D 2 1 are the gates in the 42 shifter, the 4L70 had one more or two more. Thinking about it a bit more, the biggest problem was the much longer distance between park and reverse. The other end doesn't have individual stops for the forward gears so the overall travel between 1 and OD isn't that critical.

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post #5 of 18 Old 09-25-2017, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Smooth won't be the issue. There isn't enough throw in the cable. With the shifter you picked, there is a shift lever that has a slot so you can adjust the throw that way. I had a stand alone version and it was more than I had the patience for to get the gates cut right. P N D 2 1 are the gates in the 42 shifter, the 4L70 had one more or two more. Thinking about it a bit more, the biggest problem was the much longer distance between park and reverse. The other end doesn't have individual stops for the forward gears so the overall travel between 1 and OD isn't that critical.
You're still refering to the stock 42RLE shifter right with the gates being improperly spaced (and missing at least one position) to work with the GM tranny, right?

Everything I read on PBB about which shifter seems to lead me back the the Art Carr-Winters shifter. Any reviews I found it seems to operate good and is very robust.
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-26-2017, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Vinman View Post
You're still refering to the stock 42RLE shifter right with the gates being improperly spaced (and missing at least one position) to work with the GM tranny, right?

Everything I read on PBB about which shifter seems to lead me back the the Art Carr-Winters shifter. Any reviews I found it seems to operate good and is very robust.
Yes, I wound up doing this instead.
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-26-2017, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Nice job with that shifter!
I was hoping to install it in the stock console but it looks like it may be too close to the dash. I may end up doing something similar to your picture instead but install it just ahead of my Tuffy rear half console then add cup holders ahead of it.
Thanks again
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-26-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinman View Post
Nice job with that shifter!
I was hoping to install it in the stock console but it looks like it may be too close to the dash. I may end up doing something similar to your picture instead but install it just ahead of my Tuffy rear half console then add cup holders ahead of it.
Thanks again
We had the console but I could find no way to make it work that wouldn't take 20 hours to do and still not be where I needed it to be. Even that one which we had the luxury of putting any place we wanted to had to be located within 1/8" front to back. Too far back and it messed with the parking brake, too far forward and your hand hit the dash. As it sits, we had to take the parking brake bracket loose from the mount and raise it 1/4" so the handle could go all the way down without hitting the back of the shifter box.

Trust me, I really wanted to morph something into the stock console but I won't do hack work and that was the best we could come up with that fit sort of in the budget.

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post #9 of 18 Old 09-26-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
We had the console but I could find no way to make it work that wouldn't take 20 hours to do and still not be where I needed it to be. Even that one which we had the luxury of putting any place we wanted to had to be located within 1/8" front to back. Too far back and it messed with the parking brake, too far forward and your hand hit the dash. As it sits, we had to take the parking brake bracket loose from the mount and raise it 1/4" so the handle could go all the way down without hitting the back of the shifter box.

Trust me, I really wanted to morph something into the stock console but I won't do hack work and that was the best we could come up with that fit sort of in the budget.
Yeah, I hear you about the 1/8" tolerances, you start these simple little projects and think you have the luxury of lots of room and by the time you're done with it you realize how little tolerences you had to work with.

I'm swapping in the 5.3, auto and JK Rubicon axles along with a home built mid-arm suspension into my LJ. I swear everything I touch had to be moved by anywhere from 1/8"-1/2".
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-27-2017, 06:31 AM
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Yeah, I hear you about the 1/8" tolerances, you start these simple little projects and think you have the luxury of lots of room and by the time you're done with it you realize how little tolerences you had to work with.

I'm swapping in the 5.3, auto and JK Rubicon axles along with a home built mid-arm suspension into my LJ. I swear everything I touch had to be moved by anywhere from 1/8"-1/2".
Pay close attention to the motor location. With a HP front axle you need to fully cycle the axle to make sure you have enough up-travel and the pinion doesn't slam into the front of the oil pan or part of the block. If you get it squared away, get a driveshaft on it and do the same to make sure you have the shaft moving without hitting stuff.

We have a friend with a 5.3 swap and he has to run the front stock suspension locations because the company that did the swap has the motor slightly to the driver's side and ran dual exhaust. We tried to swap in a HP 9 and it slammed into the motor at 4" of up. We were able to do the mid arm in the back, not gonna happen in the front.

We helped move a 6.0 over and back to try and clear the front axle in another rig and had to build a custom front with loose inner C's and when we got it to clear everything by sliding the pumpkin over, there was no room for a spring perch and we installed coil-overs in the front. By doing it that way, we got a 14" travel shock in there with almost 7" of up.

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post #11 of 18 Old 09-27-2017, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Pay close attention to the motor location. With a HP front axle you need to fully cycle the axle to make sure you have enough up-travel and the pinion doesn't slam into the front of the oil pan or part of the block. If you get it squared away, get a driveshaft on it and do the same to make sure you have the shaft moving without hitting stuff.

We have a friend with a 5.3 swap and he has to run the front stock suspension locations because the company that did the swap has the motor slightly to the driver's side and ran dual exhaust. We tried to swap in a HP 9 and it slammed into the motor at 4" of up. We were able to do the mid arm in the back, not gonna happen in the front.

We helped move a 6.0 over and back to try and clear the front axle in another rig and had to build a custom front with loose inner C's and when we got it to clear everything by sliding the pumpkin over, there was no room for a spring perch and we installed coil-overs in the front. By doing it that way, we got a 14" travel shock in there with almost 7" of up.
Yes, after having the engine in place, tranny crossmember built and everything fully welded, I tried to install the grill with Novak rad/fan combo and discovered I had less than 1/8" clearance between the fan and waterpump pulley snout. I cut the motor mounts out and moved everything back 1/2" to gain clearance, next step is to discharge the ORI's and cycle the suspension. I did design the motor mounts to allow some side to side movement this time around because of how critical placement is.
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-29-2017, 09:37 AM
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Yes, after having the engine in place, tranny crossmember built and everything fully welded, I tried to install the grill with Novak rad/fan combo and discovered I had less than 1/8" clearance between the fan and waterpump pulley snout. I cut the motor mounts out and moved everything back 1/2" to gain clearance, next step is to discharge the ORI's and cycle the suspension. I did design the motor mounts to allow some side to side movement this time around because of how critical placement is.
I had the same problem with Novak's direct bolt in radiator/fan/shroud combination made for this swap. Direct bolt in my ***. I already had the engine as far back as it could go so we notched out the radiator support and moved the radiator forward.


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post #13 of 18 Old 09-29-2017, 10:36 AM
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I had the same problem with Novak's direct bolt in radiator/fan/shroud combination made for this swap. Direct bolt in my ***. I already had the engine as far back as it could go so we notched out the radiator support and moved the radiator forward.
The owner welded on the Novak swap mounts. It didn't take long to figure out they were trash and we cut them off and tossed them.

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post #14 of 18 Old 09-30-2017, 12:14 PM
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Just had a quick read through your thread. If you wish to retain the stock console you could convert to the LoKar shifter. I put a thread up on this forum several months back outlining the challenges I had setting up their mechanical shift linkage when I installed a 6.0, Atlas t-case and 4L60E auto in my '97 TJ. If I were to do it again I'd opt for their cable shift linkage. Overall, I've gotten used to the shifter; it's not perfect as there is not indication as to what gear you're in other than the feel where the shift lever lands and of course the feedback from the engine / trans.
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-30-2017, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeffs98tj View Post
Just had a quick read through your thread. If you wish to retain the stock console you could convert to the LoKar shifter. I put a thread up on this forum several months back outlining the challenges I had setting up their mechanical shift linkage when I installed a 6.0, Atlas t-case and 4L60E auto in my '97 TJ. If I were to do it again I'd opt for their cable shift linkage. Overall, I've gotten used to the shifter; it's not perfect as there is not indication as to what gear you're in other than the feel where the shift lever lands and of course the feedback from the engine / trans.
I actually do have cable operated Lokar shifter that I will not use. Partly because I have arthritis in my thumb and have extremely difficulty trying to push the centred mount in the shifter to allow shifting and the fact I think it is a pos. I had it installed and it just operated like crap, it was used when I received it so maybe it was worn out bit regardless, I am not interested in that style of shifter.
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