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Unread 10-13-2012, 06:01 PM   #1
bluebicon
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stock rubi locker wasted.. what do i replace it with

well i finally figured out how to take the stock locker apart and as i suspected its junked.. found some broke parts inside... now i have the task of figuring how to get the best bang for my buck. well that and how to install it in my rear 44.. and make it work and still have use of the front stock one... is there a way to use the same switch for the replacement rear. or do i have to somehow move the rear electrical stuff to the front axle and use the dash switch to engage the front and allow the electronics to think its the rear one thats engaged, since the front dont engage until the rear is engaged first.
and besides that do i replace it with a 30 spline locker and keep my stock axles or should i go ahead and replace the axles at the same time and up my spline count.. is a 30 spline strong enough if i do the chromoly upgrade later down the road so the cash hit isnt so hard all at once.

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Unread 10-13-2012, 06:11 PM   #2
Jerry Bransford
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Alloy chrome molly 30 spline shafts from Superior Axle are a major upgrade over the stock carbon steel 30 spline shafts. I'm about to upgrade my Alloy USA rear shafts to Superior Axle (keeping the Alloy USA shafts as spares) and I'm staying with 30 spline.

Switch-wise, I junked my Rubicon locker wiring and switch circuit due to problems with it and just wired in simple 12v on-off switches to the compressors instead. I can now control each locker independently without problem. The dash locker lights do flash now whenever I have the lockers on but that's no big deal... it just reminds me to shut them off when I'm done with them.
locker-switches.jpg  
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Unread 10-13-2012, 07:04 PM   #3
Aalbury
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when my rear blew up I replaced it with a stock front rubi locker. I also seperated the lockers from the factory switch and can run front and back independently with their own rocker switch.
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Unread 10-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #4
Elwood
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On my last Jeep, I did this and went with ARB. Costs a few bucks, but well worth it, especially if you drive on the street much.
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Unread 10-13-2012, 09:56 PM   #5
tbburg
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Have you checked into repairing the thrashed locker or replacing it with a like unit(new, used, or rebuilt)

As to wiring: the Rubicon locker switch sends a 12V signal to a relay controlling the locker compressor(one for each axle) You could use this signal to trigger a relay for an electric locker, the solenoid for an ARB, etc. No reason you can't use the factory system.
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Unread 10-13-2012, 10:48 PM   #6
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Unread 10-13-2012, 11:22 PM   #7
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theres no replacement parts for the stock locker other than the bladder.. a new replacement from chrysler is 1800 bucks.. im going to see if a pro welder can do anything with my broken one but i dont think its possible.. i might see if i can find a jeep salvage yard and check their price..
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Unread 10-14-2012, 07:54 AM   #8
GMBNT42
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Eaton E locker and be done with it.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 09:02 AM   #9
zackcj7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aalbury View Post
when my rear blew up I replaced it with a stock front rubi locker. I also seperated the lockers from the factory switch and can run front and back independently with their own rocker switch.
I know several guys that have done this. Replaced a broken rear rubi locker with a new or used front rubi locker. The front lockers seem to hold up much better than the rears.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 09:08 AM   #10
55willystruck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zackcj7 View Post
I know several guys that have done this. Replaced a broken rear rubi locker with a new or used front rubi locker. The front lockers seem to hold up much better than the rears.
True, as there's no LS feature in the front, but the fronts still break in the rear application. Unless it's free or dirt cheap, I wouldn't even bother.

Replaced mine with an ARB when it failed years ago and when my front fails, an ARB will go there as well.

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 10-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #11
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at this point im leaning toward the arb and a compressor that will inflate tires as well as operate the locker. the next issue im pondering is if im replacing the locker should i spend the extra 400 bucks and get a higher spline count or is the stock 30 count plenty strong enough.. i plan on replacing them with chromoly down the road if i break them but would be more affordable if i wait till i actually break them and not have to add them into the the total with the replacement... that being said if the higher spline count locker is a reccomended move i'll just suck it up and spend it... especially since the lockers are the same cost with either spline count.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 03:30 PM   #12
Greenfun2
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Some respected individuals on here prefer 30 spline over 33 or 35. There's a few threads on here somewhere about all that.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMBNT42 View Post
Eaton E locker and be done with it.
Eww. Not for a D44, they've been tested at approximately 55% the strength of an ARB.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #14
njrealtor55
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Keep the stock spline count. If you break the bigger spline shafts you have to re-order special parts - compared to picking up stock style shafts easily. Also the upgrade changes the unit bearing - further necessitating the special order shaft requirement.
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Unread 10-14-2012, 08:00 PM   #15
mr_bungle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Alloy chrome molly 30 spline shafts from Superior Axle are a major upgrade over the stock carbon steel 30 spline shafts. I'm about to upgrade my Alloy USA rear shafts to Superior Axle (keeping the Alloy USA shafts as spares) and I'm staying with 30 spline.

Switch-wise, I junked my Rubicon locker wiring and switch circuit due to problems with it and just wired in simple 12v on-off switches to the compressors instead. I can now control each locker independently without problem. The dash locker lights do flash now whenever I have the lockers on but that's no big deal... it just reminds me to shut them off when I'm done with them.
jerry i really appreciate you on here . thanks
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