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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:51 AM   #1
robquillan
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
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sticky Valves How can I free them up

whats the best product to run through the intake or engine oil to clean my Valves up I think they are sticking Already tried sea foam through the intake -fuel-and engine oil no luck

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Unread 03-09-2008, 08:41 AM   #2
Pillswoj
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Jumping in to see responses, I also would like to know.

Jeff
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Unread 03-09-2008, 09:10 AM   #3
Slithering_Joe
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Sticky Valves? May I ask how you came to this observation?
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Unread 03-09-2008, 09:20 AM   #4
ranger140892
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You know, probably nothing really works. I run Lucas fuel treatment through my truck, Yeep, & Harley to hopefully postpone the arrival of valve deposits. I have no proof that it does anything but boost the octane a little.

As for cleaning up existing deposits, tearing down the engine is the only sure way I know. Hopefully some one will post a miracle for us all!
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Unread 03-09-2008, 05:33 PM   #5
McJeepz
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Short of actually opening things up ... the best remedy in a can that I've found is called "Sea Foam" It a pour it down the intake till it stalls / let it sit a spell / then take it for a drive somewhere so your neighbours don't hang ya tune up in a can ... makes big smoke ;0)
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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:10 PM   #6
NakedJeeper
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Old mechanics tip from an old mechanic I knew:
Change your engine oil, but use at least one quart of dexron ATF instead of oil. Its thinner and has more detergent. Run the RPMs up on the freeway. You may be able to get the lifter unstuck. Change your oil and filter again within a couple of days.

No guarantees! I have done this several times to my TJ and to my CJ with no ill effects.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:20 PM   #7
jaytee
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Marvel Mystery oil did the trick on my old '89 YJ 4.2L. It started ticking at about 140K miles. I drained out my oil, bought a few quarts of the cheapie stuff and a quart of Mystery oil, ran it for about 500 miles, drained it all, did the same thing again with new oil, etc, after a couple of days on the second fill it was nice and quiet, drained it all, put normal oil in it, changed the filter (DON'T BUY FRAM!, NOT ON A JEEP MOTOR! THE FRAM SUCKS AND THE VERTICALLY MOUNTED FILTER MEANS THAT ALL OF THE BAD STUFF DRAINS BACK INTO THE MOTOR!) Everything was just fine after that!
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Unread 03-09-2008, 08:29 PM   #8
ThUmPeRcOn
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Risoline add 1 quart in place of 1qt of oil durring your next oil change. Worked for my 03' I coud not believe it honest try it if you like this stuff has been around for 40 years and worked wonders for me. I called my father about the tick in my motor. Dad is a retired 40+ year mechanic. He asked how many miles were on the Jeep 61,000 and he said go get 1qt of risoline change your oil add 1qt in place of 1qt of oil. End of story tick is now gone. I cant remember exactally but think it has only been about 2 months since it put it in and the tick is gone. Risoline is made to clean valves etc. Yes it is a detergent but mild and from my results it works. Do a search on the www and you will find a ton of info on it if you are leary of using such things in your motor. I was too my Dad said try it and I still did a search on the stuff on the net b-4 putting it in my Jeep but now I am sold on it. Here is a link. I do not sell this stuff and in no way saying it will work for everyone but I believe I had a sticky valve and some engine gunk this cleaned it out and lubricated it. And my tick is gone.

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm
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Last edited by ThUmPeRcOn; 03-09-2008 at 08:59 PM..
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Unread 03-09-2008, 11:07 PM   #9
ptowntj
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Using ATF fluid is an old trick, and it works well. run it right before your oil change and put some fresh stuff in it. It works great for my ranger which has very sticky valves towards the end of its oil change intervals.
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Unread 03-10-2008, 12:20 AM   #10
Axl Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NakedJeeper View Post
Old mechanics tip from an old mechanic I knew:
Change your engine oil, but use at least one quart of dexron ATF instead of oil. Its thinner and has more detergent. Run the RPMs up on the freeway. You may be able to get the lifter unstuck. Change your oil and filter again within a couple of days.

No guarantees! I have done this several times to my TJ and to my CJ with no ill effects.
I've heard this from a mechanic at a Subaru dealership as well. Being a mechanic at Birney Honda in Scranton, PA, however, I would NOT recommend this on any Honda engine.

Jeeps.... I dunno. ha ha
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Unread 03-10-2008, 12:21 AM   #11
xxxflhrci
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Your valves can't "stick". The valves are opened up by the pushrod which is lifted by the lifter running on the cam lobe. About all that can happen is a hyrdaulic lifter can not pump up fully either due to wear or the oil hole getting clogged. When that happens, they tick. Sure, a miracle in a can, like Risoline, Seafoam or ATF may sometimes help with a lifter that is bleeding down, but most of the times not. Then,the problem can be traced to a worn part, either the lifter, rocker arm, pushrod or cam.
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Unread 03-10-2008, 01:16 AM   #12
ranger140892
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You guys need to help me out here. How do you know your valves are "sticky"? You can't see, or feel them. Are you hearing something? The push rod is gonna move them no matter how sticky they are. Or break. And where is it sticking at: Seats or guides?
I can understand how some type of additive put in the intake would maybe clean the seats but not the guides. And v/v on oil additive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptowntj View Post
Using ATF fluid is an old trick, and it works well. run it right before your oil change and put some fresh stuff in it. It works great for my ranger which has very sticky valves towards the end of its oil change intervals.
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Unread 03-10-2008, 01:18 AM   #13
Greg_Volkman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NakedJeeper View Post
Old mechanics tip from an old mechanic I knew:
Change your engine oil, but use at least one quart of dexron ATF instead of oil. Its thinner and has more detergent. Run the RPMs up on the freeway. You may be able to get the lifter unstuck. Change your oil and filter again within a couple of days.

No guarantees! I have done this several times to my TJ and to my CJ with no ill effects.
I wouldn't ever drive with the ATF in the crank. I have drained a quart of old oil, poured in a court of ATF, let it idle for 10 mins, then drained it all and replaced the oil/filter.
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Unread 03-10-2008, 01:36 AM   #14
ranger140892
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That reminds me: Years ago an old fart told me to do that in my 77 Bronco. So I did it without question. The next day the rear main, and timing cover were leaking oil. That was back in the day when I had to drive 40 miles to the nearest parts store, then come back 4 days later when the parts came in.
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Originally Posted by Greg_Volkman View Post
I wouldn't ever drive with the ATF in the crank. I have drained a quart of old oil, poured in a court of ATF, let it idle for 10 mins, then drained it all and replaced the oil/filter.
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Unread 03-10-2008, 06:06 AM   #15
barty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptowntj View Post
Using ATF fluid is an old trick, and it works well. run it right before your oil change and put some fresh stuff in it. It works great for my ranger which has very sticky valves towards the end of its oil change intervals.

Even if you keep it in there for the full duration of the oil change, it shouldn't cause any problems. It is roughly the same as 5w-30 oil so I have been told. I found this out after an acquaintance dumped about 2 quarts of ATF in their engine. I asked around and the general consensus was that it wouldn't hurt anything if the motor didn't have a ton of mileage on it.

Any seal leakage is from the detergents breaking down the crud that tends to build up around the gaskets and seals and not because ATF is doing anything sinister to the seals themselves.
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