steering and transmission problems, 2000 tj sahara - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
KyleHart18
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steering and transmission problems, 2000 tj sahara

Hi everyone, so recently I've been having problems with my steering and my transmission when I first start it up in the mornings.
first the steering. I have a 2.5 rough country lift with 32" Dunlop tires. I have 2" spacers as well. about a couple weeks ago, I started driving down the road and I couldn't keep my jeep from going straight. it kept swerving back and fourth. about 2 weeks ago I had my passenger side sway bar snap off and now it keeps disconnecting since someone has fixed it. I don't think that could be the situation but just giving all the info. the steering is tolerable at 30-40 mph but when I have to drive to Vermont after vacations for 3 hours, going anything more then 40 I don't feel safe for myself and other on the highway. I got new control arms and track bar when I got the lift installed about 10 months ago. wheel bearings an tie rods were fixed and replaced about a month ago. I talked to my buddies who know more about jeeps then me and thought it could be the track bar bushings. so If anyone knows what the problem might be let me know.
now the transmission. so in the morning when its cold or hasn't been started in a while, it doesn't go into gear (right word?). so I turn the jeep on, put it in reverse and it is fine, then put it in drive, give it a little gas and doesn't move, it acts like it s in neutral. I then give it a little more gas and when its gets to about 2 or 3 rpms. it jumps into drive. all of that time is was in drive though.. I looked on here for other people with transmission problems like I did and they said to get a filter and fluid change? I talked to the guy that works on my jeep and he say if I flush the transmission fluid now it will worsen the transmission problem.
if anyone has any solutions or ideas on what it might be I'm all ears. I hope someone can help. if anyone need to know anymore ill answer the best I can. I'm new to all of these bigger problems. my jeep is a 2000 jeep wrangler sahara 4.0 straight 6.

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 07:43 PM
JBTJ
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For your transmission problem, there is a anti drain back valve on the output line from the transmission to the radiator that is leaking. It's a common problem with the 32RH transmission. Looks like the dealer want's $90 bucks for a new line. That's too much for me to spend for that small of a problem so at startup I just put it into neutral for about 5 seconds to allow the line to fill back up and then put it into what ever gear I want and proceed.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
KyleHart18
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@jbtj

I can do that for the beginning when I first put it in drive and when I am stopped at a stop sign, so I will defiantly do that! but even when I'm driving until the engine and everything is warmed up, it still does it for about 15 minutes. like ill be going 30 -40 mph and it will stop driving and act like its in neutral, then my rpms are around 2-3 and then it jumps and starts driving again. any suggestions there? its gotten worse from just the first time putting it into drive it did it till now when I'm driving too.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:03 PM
JBTJ
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Originally Posted by KyleHart18 View Post
I can do that for the beginning when I first put it in drive and when I am stopped at a stop sign, so I will defiantly do that! but even when I'm driving until the engine and everything is warmed up, it still does it for about 15 minutes. like ill be going 30 -40 mph and it will stop driving and act like its in neutral, then my rpms are around 2-3 and then it jumps and starts driving again. any suggestions there? its gotten worse from just the first time putting it into drive it did it till now when I'm driving too.
When was the last time you dropped the pan and replaced the filter and all 9+ quarts of ATF that's in the system. If it's been awhile or never done, that's where I'd start.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:04 PM
rondak46
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Your broken sway bar can be causing your steering trouble. It very likely is.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:07 PM
ravenworks
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
For your transmission problem, there is a anti drain back valve on the output line from the transmission to the radiator that is leaking. It's a common problem with the 32RH transmission. Looks like the dealer want's $90 bucks for a new line. That's too much for me to spend for that small of a problem so at startup I just put it into neutral for about 5 seconds to allow the line to fill back up and then put it into what ever gear I want and proceed.
Save your money: $16
PRESSURE VALVE - Mopar (55116910AA)
But also take JB's advice and change your fliud
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:08 PM
JBTJ
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After completely reading your symptoms it seems the filter and fluid hasn't been replaced, so that's where you need to start. It's very easy to do and here’s how you do it.


How to completely replace the ATF in your 32RH transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator on the driver's side. Connect one end of the 3/8th's rubber hose to the metal line and secure with a hose clamp, then stick the other end into the milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place into neutral. This will begin to pump ATF into the milk jug and allow to fill up to the 3 quart mark, once it does place back into park and turn off the motor. By doing this you will be empting most of the ATF from the pan so when you go to drop the pan ATF will not spill out every where creating a mess. Now go ahead and remove the pan and replace the filter. Then clean the pan thoroughly and reinstall the pan. Next is to top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4 by pouring it down the dip stick tube. At this point your are ready to replace the ATF in the torque converter. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened place the transmission back into park and dispose of the old ATF, then add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Remember your transmission only pumps the ATF when it's in neutral. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 6 more quarts to complete this process, but you may want to run a couple more quarts through to be sure you get all the old ATF out. Total system holds 9 quarts. When your finished disconnect the 3/8th's hose from the metal transmission cooler line and reconnect it to the radiator. Now start the engine and move the gear selector through all gears, then take the JEEP out for a test drive and ensure the transmission is up to normal operating temperature and while on a flat surface and in neutral pull out the transmission dipstick and verify the fluid is at the full mark.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
KyleHart18
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JB: ill be sure to do that when I'm home. all of my tools and stuff for that is back at home. but I don't think anyone has done that to the jeep ever. the owner before me didn't take good care of it.
Raven: what will that do? sorry for the dumb questions
Rondak: the guys that work on my jeep said that I should get longer sway bar links because they don't it the lift. they're stock sway bar links and the recommend longer ones or ones that are pinned disconnect since I go off-roading. but its fixed now so I don't think that's the problem because they're both connected and tight.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:38 PM
JBTJ
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I also installed an external transmission filter to make it easier to service the transmission. Now I can do it standing up with no tools in about 15 seconds.


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post #10 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 08:44 PM
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Raven: what will that do? sorry for the dumb questions
That is a replacement "Check Valve" that is in your line.
They do go bad from time to time,for peace of mind I'd just replace it.
You will need two more fittings, compression on one end and barbed on the other end.

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post #11 of 12 Old 01-19-2016, 11:42 PM
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I also installed an external transmission filter to make it easier to service the transmission. Now I can do it standing up with no tools in about 15 seconds.


My 2000 Sport with the 32RH and cruse control doesn't have room for placing the add-on filter in that location.

So I put it in another location:


... HTH
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-20-2016, 05:20 PM
JBTJ
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
My 2000 Sport with the 32RH and cruse control doesn't have room for placing the add-on filter in that location.

So I put it in another location:


... HTH
Yeah mine didn't either until I relocated the cruise control unit under the add-on filter.
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