Steering Stabilizer Removal - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-18-2004, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
jdubb1000
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Steering Stabilizer Removal

What is the best way to remove the stock SS? I took the nut off (towards the center of the jeep) and beat the bolt. Did I just not beat hard enough or what? Also how hard is the other side (towards the passenger side). Thanks All!

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post #2 of 12 Old 05-18-2004, 07:38 PM
alabama sahara
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If I am not mistaken on what your talking about, the bolt 'does not' come out. The Shock slips over the bolt shaft, and the new one just slips back on over the existing bolt. The nut is all you have to remove.
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-18-2004, 07:40 PM
BigWaylon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdubb1000
What is the best way to remove the stock SS? I took the nut off (towards the center of the jeep) and beat the bolt. Did I just not beat hard enough or what? Also how hard is the other side (towards the passenger side). Thanks All!
I posted the exact same question one day...

the answer came back as: GET A BIGGER HAMMER!!!

It's a tapered bolt, and assuming you got a new one (or a straight bolt with a tapered sleeve like I did) with your new SS, you won't care what kind of shape it's in...

I went back outside and it took about 3 good whacks and it popped out...

some people have success with tapping directly on the side of the spot the bolt goes through to loosen it a bit, then give it a good whack on the end...

Greg

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post #4 of 12 Old 05-18-2004, 07:43 PM
BigWaylon
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here's my post:

steering stabilizer install

Greg

2001 TJ 60th Anniversary Edition (details in Profile)
www.carolinarockshop.com
All the pics I have...including a Table of Contents
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-11-2011, 05:14 PM
onyx
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lmao i just started a new lift on my 95 zj i hit it i used a pitman puller and everything else i can think of the pitman puller pushed so hard the bolt shortened and spread out the sides so now i cant even remove it
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-11-2011, 05:21 PM
man44a
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Mine bent when I used the pitman arm puller, or rather crushed. I had to cut the end off with my dremel. Best tip I could give would be use pb blaster and hammer. Keep soaking and hammering till it pops out.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-11-2011, 08:56 PM
reddirtTJ
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I replaced mine two weeks ago and I called one of my buddies with the same question. He told me to give my wife the hammer... needless to say it only took a few more swings. It's in there solid.

97 TJ 4.10s, 33s, 4" Clayton.

"TJ's and CJ's are Jeeps. BJ's are something else entirely. I can only help you with the first two." Sundowner
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-12-2011, 12:48 AM
RogueSpear2023
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get a torch and bigger hammer.

Max

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post #9 of 12 Old 04-12-2011, 04:00 AM
Nasmith1
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go to the nearest auto zone and by using their loan-a-tool program (free) get the small pitman arm puller for small foreigh cars. it will force the bolt right out.

when using that program you pay for the tool, but they refund the entire amount upon the tools return. you could buy one, but I broke mine, so I recommend borrowing.

3 xj's - 1992 k2500 diesel - 1992 corolla (doubled my money..... after I blew it up) - 1995 yj - ***1997 Jeep TJ***
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-12-2011, 08:31 PM
alramr
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The stabilizer on my Jeep was OEM. First, I used PB blaster, then I beat on the area where the bolt is and then used a propane torch. After all this, I noticed there was a hexagonal shape on the bolt portion. I used an open ended wrench and hammer to loosen. I am not referring to the castlenut either.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-29-2011, 06:55 PM
Overheat
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If you don't have a gear or pitman arm puller, it can be done with a bfh and a bar. Leave the shock/dampener attached near the wheel. Then, put the bar between the tie rod and the shock absorber rod so that you have strong pressure (you will probably bend the shock absorber rod if you are doing it right). Next, while it's under pressure, whack it with a bfh. You might get lucky and pop it from the bottom, or you may need to smack it a few times on the tie rod where the bolt passes through. When it comes off, it will come off with a loud pop. Despite tons of overnight penetrating oil, mine was dry as a bone. The trick is banging on it while it is under adequate pressure. If you have a puller, that should give you adequate pressure to bust it loose with the hammer from the side, but it isn't necessary to drop the money if you don't already own one.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-31-2011, 07:27 AM
geiman
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Make sure you're hitting the drag link where the SS bolt passes through and not the actual bolt.
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