[BusyDoinNothing]

K so I had a check engine light come on. so because I couldn't get an OBD reader I took it down to the dealership. I just got a call and they say that the code says that it's something with the transmission, either the torque converter or if its bad i might need a new transmission. they said it would be from $1500 to $3000 depending on what the problem is. Oh and that BTW that'll be $160 to check the code.

First of all you never told me that it would be $160 to check the code nor did i even sign anything. had i known it was that much i would have just gone down and got my own.

Second. Now what? How hard is this to do? If it is the whole transmission what would you guys suggest? I'm thinking about taking it to someplace i trust a little more.

Thanks.

[EDIT] its a 32RH i believe. It's a 99' I6 AUTO

[95BadBoy]

Did your rig drive / run OK after you got the CEL. ? You may be screwed on the billing for thier testing - but I would def see the service writer and then the service manager and raise a little heck till some reduction is handled for not being notified about the high scan charge. Always worth a try, when a dealer fee is somewhat retarded.

I had a GM dealer (service manager) try to charge me a scan when I had already had one done, the service manager was adament on charging me till I informed him it was already done by his old boss. Only then did he back off the fee.

It would also help if you would fill in your vehicle's profile, many people do not read the bottom end of most postings - as it is oft times quote's ect..

[TXjeepTJ]

id take it to autozone or a place that can physicaly show you the code, or buy an obd2 reader- they come in handy and you can buy them pretty cheap now

a guy at my shop said the place he use to work at would tell people their whole transmissin needed to be replaced, when it was just something small- so they would replace the small thing and charge the person for a whole new transmission (i hate this guy now btw)

[Unscathed]

They can't charge you 160 for reading a code.. that's like actuall robbery.. lol. I mean after all a mechanic paid by the hour is give or take 65/hr. to hook up a code for less then a minute? I mean really.

And they are supposed to have you sign off BEFORE they do anything to your vehicle. If you didn't SIGN off... that is their problem for not telling you in the first place.

just tell em to take you to small claims court and bring your signed Authorization of "permission to repair statement for services"... they will drop it right there. And don't go back to that STEALERSHIP

take the 160 you should be saving by not paying them, and go buy yourself one. And next time, go to Autozone or Advance and they will read your CODE FOR FREE.

Then depending on what you want to do with your ride down the road.. you can pick up a nice Chevy 700R4 transmission, some advance adapters and install yourself a nice beefy transmission for under 2000 bucks. that way in the future, you can throw that LS2 you know deep down inside that you want to put under th hood.

[Jerry Bransford]

Unscathed, I was under the impression a 700R4 had such a protrusion on its side (pan) that there was insufficient clearance for a TJ's front driveshaft. Not true?

BusyDoinNothing, what symptoms are you having? Exactly what is the transmission doing that is not right? Have you checked the transmission fluid level and its condition? You must do that when the engine is running with the transmission in neutral.

If there is truly something wrong with the transmission and you're in Southern California, you can take it to Joe at Westminster Transmission in Westminster (Orange County) and trust he will be honest and do good work without overcharging you like a dealer usually does.

And yes it's a 32RH which is a member of the TF-999 family.

[BusyDoinNothing]

Well, thanks. The car has been running fine. I did check the fluid level and it was fine. The only thing that i dont like is that it jerks a little when you switch gears but that's not anything new i assume its just because its a Jeep not a BMW. I'm actually up in the bay area so OC's a little far.

[Jerry Bransford]

I'd start by doing a partial ATF drain/refill with a new filter, making sure to use only either ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluid. If that doesn't help, it may only need to have its bands adjusted, a minor procedure.

[Unscathed]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Unscathed, I was under the impression a 700R4 had such a protrusion on its side (pan) that there was insufficient clearance for a TJ's front driveshaft. Not true?

There is a tab but does not interfere with drive line stuff but AdvAdapters recommends cutting it off so it tucks up and in better especially if you don't have a body lift