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Unread 03-20-2011, 12:46 AM   #46
JeepNE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
Nope, still haven't fixed it.

Today I did the rotors, no luck. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brakes, the fluid is pretty nasty. If that doesn't do it it's new calipers and/or brake lines. New calipers and brake lines might be a good thing anyway, calipers are like 20 bucks each and brake lines are 18.

If I had the money I would do the vanco kit, but I don't have almost a grand laying around for that.
Yeah, I'm having the exact same problem. I've been trying to figure it out for quite a while. I'm at the point where I'm so frustrated with it i just hope something brakes or siezes up so i know what the heck it is. Let me know if new fluid changes anything. Don't remember if you had mentioned it earlier in the thread, but have you changed the pads since it started? I'm kind of wondering if it has something to do with a slightly warped rotor(since yours when away for a while with a new rotor and came back after what I would assume is some heavy braking with the 33's) and possibly metalic brake pads, which are what I have.

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Unread 03-20-2011, 01:19 AM   #47
RaggedOleMan
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If it were me I'd replace that u-joint, because if it turns out that's the source of the squeak, it could cause some real damage to your rig at highway speeds...besides they're inexpensive (Spicer) and it probably wouldn't hurt anyway if it's been a few years since it's been looked at. Besides that, if the old one is in good shape you can keep it for a trail spare...it all just makes sense.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 09:42 AM   #48
freeskier93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNE View Post
Yeah, I'm having the exact same problem. I've been trying to figure it out for quite a while. I'm at the point where I'm so frustrated with it i just hope something brakes or siezes up so i know what the heck it is. Let me know if new fluid changes anything. Don't remember if you had mentioned it earlier in the thread, but have you changed the pads since it started? I'm kind of wondering if it has something to do with a slightly warped rotor(since yours when away for a while with a new rotor and came back after what I would assume is some heavy braking with the 33's) and possibly metalic brake pads, which are what I have.
I had replaced the pads with Thermoquites, wish I had known about the black magic pads because I would have bought those. I had also replaced the rotor, should have replaced the other rotor but didn't, that's what I did yesterday.

I thought the squeak had momentarily gone away when I did the pads because I had to compress the caliper piston, and after a couple times on the brakes they started dragging again. That's why I'm leaning towards calipers, but I got brake fluid buy one get one free so I have a bunch of it and it's worth a shot to bleed them before I spend money on calipers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
If it were me I'd replace that u-joint, because if it turns out that's the source of the squeak, it could cause some real damage to your rig at highway speeds...besides they're inexpensive (Spicer) and it probably wouldn't hurt anyway if it's been a few years since it's been looked at. Besides that, if the old one is in good shape you can keep it for a trail spare...it all just makes sense.
I've thought about this to. My guts still telling me its the brakes, but if calipers and brake lines don't fix it u-joints were next on the list.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 07:39 PM   #49
JeepNE
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Got a chance to work on mine a little today. I pulled the caliper off and sanded down the points on the hub and pad where they rub together and greased the $!** out of them with brake lube. So far the noise has stopped but today was a lot colder than the past few days when the noise started so i dont know if that has anything to do with it. I'll let you know if it pops back up again.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 09:19 PM   #50
freeskier93
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Ugh, I didn't do anything today. My parents have been working on the landscape and bought all new patio furniture so I spent the whole day putting everything together and helping them with everything. Then my dad changed the oil in his car, and if anyone owns an Infiniti QX4 knows how hard the oil filter is to change.

My mom was kind enough to offer her help with bleeding d my brakes tomorrow.
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Unread 03-21-2011, 06:36 PM   #51
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Got the brakes bleed this afternoon. God it was embarrassingly gross. I don't know if my dad had ever done it or had it done. The rear drums were a PITA, the front calipers were easy. Everything went great, can't tell a difference in the feel of the pedal, as I think it's normal for jeeps to have a slightly airy feel at first because of the brake booster, but the pedal is def. firm. It also doesn't pull anymore under heavy braking.

After asking mrblaine some questions regarding procedure, this is what I did:

I bought a turkey baster and clear PVC hose. I found an old mason jar to catch all the fluid. First I used the turkey baster to suck as much fluid out of the MC as I could. I got as much out as I could, then filled it with new fluid, the repeated a copule times. I also found the turkey baster was to big to fit all the way in there, but I did figure out how to make a siphon. Cutting a smaller piece of hose, is stuck it in the MC to the very bottom. Then using the turkey baster I stuck it in the other end of the hose and used it to suck fluid through the hose until I got a siphon going.

Next after topping the MC off with fluid, I started on the rear passenger side drum. These are a ***** because the bleeder screws are pretty shallow and the lip of the drum is in the way. My procedure was open the bleeder screw and let it gravity drain for a sec. Then had my helper push the pedal all the way to the floor, no pumping, just a good push. They then told me when the pedal was to the floor and I closed the bleeder screw and told them to let the pedal back up. Repeated this about 10 times per wheel.

During my test drive I thought I could still faintly hear the squeak I think it got better, however it could just be in my head since it's been taunting me for so long. I'll drive around the rest of the week listening for it. I'm leaning toward the conclusion it's a combination of the fluid and the calipers and/or brake lines.
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Unread 03-21-2011, 07:09 PM   #52
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Was it hard to tell the difference between when the new fluid and old fluid was coming out? Just wondering because after about 209,000 miles I think it's probably time to change mine haha
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Unread 03-21-2011, 09:03 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNE View Post
Was it hard to tell the difference between when the new fluid and old fluid was coming out? Just wondering because after about 209,000 miles I think it's probably time to change mine haha
Old fluid looked like well used motor oil, almost black, and new fluid was clearish. I think it depends on manufacturer as they dye them differently so new can be differentiated from old.

I only used one bottle (1 quart) of fluid, wether the squeak is gone or not and I replace the calipers, I'll probably bleed them again since I still have another bottle and just to really get all the old fluid out of the MC and I might not have done the rear drums as much as I could have.

I can take a pic tomorrow of the old fluid in the jar just to show how gross it was.
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Unread 03-22-2011, 06:22 PM   #54
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Well, the squeak def. hasn't gone a way. I was doing some searching and realized I don't have any anti rattle clips on my calipers, what exactly do they do? I'm also thinking it could be the slider pin. I tried to lube it last time, but its kinda hard. You put lube inside the rubber boot and pin right? Last time I just covered the pin in grease then pushed it back into the boot and made a huge mess.

I'm still thinking of replacing the calipers anyway. 92 bucks with 25 dollar core charge per caliper, so 42 bucks for both calipers, minus 10 dollars because of an online code. I'm doubtful it's the brake lines, seems like if they were collapsed or something bad things would be happening.
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Unread 03-25-2011, 12:02 AM   #55
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I know I don't have any anti-rattle clips on mine. From what I can tell, the point of them is if your pads dont fit very tightly on the hub then it will keep them from "rattling" and bouncing around when you go over bumps by pushing the pads to the top of the hub, therefor keeping them tight and in place. IMO, I don't think this is the problem becuase the noise is a squeak(not rattle) that occurs at a frequency corresponding to how fast the tires are turning(not at random, such as when going over bumps).

If you think about it, to me it seems like it has to be some kind of lateral movement thats causing the squeak. I think this because its rotational and went away for a while when you replaced the rotor, so that makes me think the squeak is being driven by a slightly warped rotor. The old one was warped from a lifetime of use, then you got the new one which was nice and straight so the noise went away, after some use and a fair amount of braking the new rotor has become slightly warped due to the heat generated from braking. Now, the rotor may be the cause but it is definitely not the solution. The warped rotor will be pushing the whole caliper side to side when the warped section on the rotor hits the pads, so based on my reasoning the squeak could really only be coming from a fitting or contact point that provides for lateral movement. As long as the pads are in good shape and installed correctly on the caliper then i see no reason why the pad/caliper contact points would be making noise, but i suppose it couldn't hurt to toss a little brake lube on them anyways. When it really comes down to it, the only two points where I could see the noise coming from are the 4 contact points between the pads/hub and the caliper slides.

^ That was the reasoning I went through when i read this thread based on the symptoms you described and the ones I've been experiencing. When I removed my caliper I moved the slides back and forth and they seemed pretty well lubricated; I also didnt want to mess with the boot on them, end up wrecking the seal and having dirt get in there or rust start to form. This led me to the pad/hub contact points. The hub looked clearly worn where the pads ride on it so I took a pad off the caliper, slid it around on the hub where it appeared to normally sit, and it made a little bit of a noise that I could absolutely relate to the squeaking noise while driving. I sanded down both the pads and hub with a wire wheel and emery cloth until they were a smooth surface/bare metal. Then I thoroughly covered all contact points with brake lube and reassembled it all. So far: no squeak, 5 days from now: who knows?

Don't know how much I'm telling you that you dont already know/realize; just compiling information, I guess...

One more thing, I dont know what youre using for greasing your parts but just make sure use a good quality grease designed specifically for use on brakes. Regular grease will not hold up to the heat dissipated by the brakes.
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Unread 03-25-2011, 12:19 AM   #56
jpsjp
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Had the same thing. Zerk gun on all the fittings fixed it. Not sure if its the same issue as yours but sounds like it. I was crying when it first started, pulled over and stopped right away and it was just the grease, What fixed it was the axle zerk.....
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Unread 05-30-2011, 02:03 PM   #57
freeskier93
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Well I've started working and was able to replace the calipers. Squeak completely went away when I did a test drive after the new ones were on. However later that evening I was driving it and the squeak was back.

When I had the calipers off I tried to file the grooves on the knuckle where the pads rub. Oddly enough I couldn't find the right grease for brakes, but I might try finding some and greasing the back of the pads and other contact points. I also know it not the slide pins because the reman calipers came with new slide pin hardware and were already liberally greased.

The other things I could think of were partially collapsed brake line still not letting the calipers fully open, warped rotor, or the thermoquite pads are really crappy and making the noise.
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