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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:15 AM   #61
XTRyan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
It seems to be coming from towards the back of the trans, behind the skid plate. That is where the t-case is, correct? I have greased all the bits that had the greaser thing. (zerk fitting?) The install instructions said to grease after deep mud and whatnot, so i did.
Did you grease the flat grease fitting on the centering ball? The one you need the needle style grease gun end for? I didn't receive the needle style end and missed that part in the instructions. I wasted the centering ball on my TW shaft in no time flat. Even though it was completely my fault, TW fixed the shaft for the cost of the parts, no labor. Get in touch with them and see what they can do for you.

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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:26 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
It seems to be coming from towards the back of the trans, behind the skid plate. That is where the t-case is, correct? I have greased all the bits that had the greaser thing. (zerk fitting?) The install instructions said to grease after deep mud and whatnot, so i did.
Did you get the one in the pic belo. it is hard to find and may require you to remove or at least disconnect the drive shaft in order to move things around enough to get to it. The fitting you need to get for the ball is the little silver fitting you see here in the middle of the joint.

You will need a grease injection needle to grease this fitting.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:29 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
It seems to be coming from towards the back of the trans, behind the skid plate. That is where the t-case is, correct? I have greased all the bits that had the greaser thing. (zerk fitting?) The install instructions said to grease after deep mud and whatnot, so i did.
Do you have any good pics of it? Yes the transfer case is behind the transmission but your description of the leak is rather vague.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:36 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Did you get the one in the pic belo. it is hard to find and may require you to remove or at least disconnect the drive shaft in order to move things around enough to get to it. The fitting you need to get for the ball is the little silver fitting you see here in the middle of the joint.

You will need a grease injection needle to grease this fitting.
Right grease zerk but wrong fitting. This is the style of fitting needed.



I know TW used to supply a plastic fitting to use however I'm not sure if they are still doing that. I lost mine a while back and picked up one like pictured from Napa for little money.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 09:55 AM   #65
jeepinhokie
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it is possible that the lack of driveshaft maintenance caused the DC joint to freeze up and crack the t-case...

its happened before but typically more catastrophic.



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Unread 02-07-2014, 10:06 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by rchase559 View Post
Right grease zerk but wrong fitting. This is the style of fitting needed.



I know TW used to supply a plastic fitting to use however I'm not sure if they are still doing that. I lost mine a while back and picked up one like pictured from Napa for little money.
Both should work. I found a real nice needle fitting a while back and now use on all my fittings.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 10:43 AM   #67
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I got the plastic fitting, but I don't recall doing that little one in the middle. If that's all it is then I will be grateful. Haha. I know my description of the leak is vague, but so is the info I have. Haha. I can't see where it has come from, there is fluid all over everything. But if I didn't grease the centering ball, and it busted the t-case, could that have caused a wheelspeed consistent clunk, or am I looking at a third problem? should I have needed to grease it after only three or four months of having it? The stock shaft didn't need to be greased and it lasted 16 years...
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Unread 02-07-2014, 10:49 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
I got the plastic fitting, but I don't recall doing that little one in the middle.
Then that is almost definitely what killed your shaft; not TW's work, nor Dana, nor anyone else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
should I have needed to grease it after only three or four months of having
Possibly, and judging from the pictures probably yes. How many miles do you put on your Jeep in 3 or 4 months? I grease mine every oil change just so I know it gets done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
The stock shaft didn't need to be greased and it lasted 16 years...
The stock shaft (in the rear) doesn't even have a CV joint to grease. But use Google to search this forum for angry sparrows once. That problem is the centering ball on the front shaft going out from lack of grease, just how your shaft failed from not being greased. Difference being it's not greasable from the factory so it will last a bit longer without maintenance, but once the sealed in grease is "used up" it needs replaced whereas the greasable one from TW can be greased overtime and hopefully have a longer service life.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 10:57 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
I got the plastic fitting, but I don't recall doing that little one in the middle. If that's all it is then I will be grateful. Haha. I know my description of the leak is vague, but so is the info I have. Haha. I can't see where it has come from, there is fluid all over everything. But if I didn't grease the centering ball, and it busted the t-case, could that have caused a wheelspeed consistent clunk, or am I looking at a third problem? should I have needed to grease it after only three or four months of having it? The stock shaft didn't need to be greased and it lasted 16 years...
It will cause the noise and destroy the joint. If it does bind up enough it can destroy your TCase or other parts.

I had a drive shaft from Currie (made by Coast drive line) it had no lube point for the ball or the shaft. They used this blue crap like you will see on the stock front drive shaft splines on your jeep if you remove the boot. It lasted for about 25 K miles before it started vibrating real bad. A year or so after that I had to have my TCase rebuilt. Not sure if the two are related.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:01 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
So does the pinion still have to be adjusted on a front driveshaft, which appeared to be the same design as the TW one?
And my TW shaft was a lot less than a grand, I dunno about yours. Actually, it was cheaper than the stock one...


Anyway, I didn't take any more pictures, I have been focusing on being able to get to class today. I managed to procure my father's old Camry, which unfortunately is the temporary solution to the problem. Next weekend I will be able to work on it more, but as for now I am jeepless.
Thanks for all of y'alls help, and for setting me straight with my premature blame.

ps: I edited the first post so anyone else looking at this thread won't get caught up in the foolishness.
Front is another issue. in 2x4 the front has "no load" meaning no power to the front. so in most cases it wont rattle. Example is (not recommended) if i was to set my rear pinion at a stock pinion angle. it will start to growl at about 20-25 mph. let off the gas it goes silent and wont vibrate. give it gas and its Elvis.

the front will be the same. So for most people they set the front to caster at least the min. say 4*. now if you use 4x4 at speed depending on gearing that is going to hit a wall under load. The fix for that is not the drive shaft. You need to have a front end built to the right angle, and as most know we are talking big money now. unless you can build it.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:08 AM   #71
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Then that is almost definitely what killed your shaft; not TW's work, nor Dana, nor anyone else.



Possibly, and judging from the pictures probably yes. How many miles do you put on your Jeep in 3 or 4 months? I grease mine every oil change just so I know it gets done.



The stock shaft (in the rear) doesn't even have a CV joint to grease. But use Google to search this forum for angry sparrows once. That problem is the centering ball on the front shaft going out from lack of grease, just how your shaft failed from not being greased. Difference being it's not greasable from the factory so it will last a bit longer, but once it's done it needs replaced whereas the greasable one from TW can be greased overtime and hopefully have a longer service life.
I gotcha. I prefer greasing. It is the front shaft. That makes sense. So the fluid looks like it's coming from the.. er... middle of the transmission/t-case assembly? (God I could never be a mechanic.) I tried to take a picture but all you could see was the top of the muffler. I am gonna take it to a shop, (I know a good trans guy) but I really want to know if the trans or the t-case is the source of the knock, because if there is a third problem my jeep may be down for the count. I don't have that kind of money.
I also haven't gone more than... 3-4,000 miles? I only live a mile from school...
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:09 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by mclovinal View Post
I also haven't gone more than... 3-4,000 miles? I only live a mile from school...
Did you grease it when you first installed it? I can't remember if TW recommends doing so, but I would have.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:15 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Front is another issue. in 2x4 the front has "no load" meaning no power to the front. so in most cases it wont rattle. Example is (not recommended) if i was to set my rear pinion at a stock pinion angle. it will start to growl at about 20-25 mph. let off the gas it goes silent and wont vibrate. give it gas and its Elvis.

the front will be the same. So for most people they set the front to caster at least the min. say 4*. now if you use 4x4 at speed depending on gearing that is going to hit a wall under load. The fix for that is not the drive shaft. You need to have a front end built to the right angle, and as most know we are talking big money now. unless you can build it.
So with basically no lift, measuring the length to have the shaft built, shouldn't my DS be almost exactly the same as stock? Or should I replace this one with a stock shaft again so not to have to do anything I can't afford? Or should I part out my Jeep and keep driving the camry, because the Jeep life is just too rich for me? Haha. Jeeping is seeming more and more like a rich people sport, and i'm just getting poorer as college goes on.
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"if you ain't gettin' stuck, you ain't doin' enough."
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:16 AM   #74
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Did you grease it when you first installed it? I can't remember if TW recommends doing so, but I would have.
No, but I greased the u-joints at a thousand miles ago or so. I didn't know that middle one was there though, so...
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:21 AM   #75
geiman
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IIRC, Tom has a piece of paper he includes with the plastic fitting that explains the importance of greasing the CV joint; you might have just overlooked that or assumed it meant the obvious ones on the u-joints.
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