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Unread 01-31-2014, 08:15 AM   #46
Ross
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Neither of which I really care about. What I do care about is that the right fault gets attributed to the right place regardless.

One can make a lot of generalizations about a lot of things. In cases like these, they do little to no good and you know better.
Of course and asking question as opposed to accusing is a better policy.

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Unread 01-31-2014, 08:59 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Neither of which I really care about. What I do care about is that the right fault gets attributed to the right place regardless.

One can make a lot of generalizations about a lot of things. In cases like these, they do little to no good and you know better.
^^This^^=100% my thoughts
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Unread 01-31-2014, 12:16 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
not on a cardan you wont, few degrees and it will shake like Elvis. the pin must be at least close to parallel to the drive shaft. +-1* . Tipping the rear up is the ONLY way to run these. Or it will fail Catastrophically. this can lead to a Tcase failure and other mayhem.
thank you
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Unread 01-31-2014, 03:20 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
not on a cardan you wont, few degrees and it will shake like Elvis. the pin must be at least close to parallel to the drive shaft. +-1* . Tipping the rear up is the ONLY way to run these. Or it will fail Catastrophically. this can lead to a Tcase failure and other mayhem.
It's been theorized in post 40 based on statements in post 38 that this is a front driveshaft.


It's also worth noting the guy is running a ~2" BB or equivalent, how many times do we see people on here with front driveshaft issues with BBs? Or even rear driveshaft issues with BBs?

If you look closely you'll see grease on the u-joint's trunion, and you'll see some grease splatter on the H yoke.


The most telling part of that picture is the actual fracture itself.

See how the top is a very bright whiteish color, indicative of a fresh break.
If you look lower you can see grease contamination on the same fracture.

To me it's highly unlikely that all the grease shot out and only hit a small part of the fracture. Even if that was the case, how often is the grease in a driveshaft that gray color? The grease on the trunion looks very lightly colored.

From what I'm seeing, it looks like the centering yoke got a stress crack in it, or more likely it had a defect from the manufacturer, and over time it finally let go.


That's my C.S.I. Jeepforum report based on preliminary evidence.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 08:12 AM   #50
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Your investigation seems to leave out the main issue it seems the op did not set the cardan correctly. This will cause things to fail and fail fast. most people that run BB's do not spend 1K on new drive shafts. BB's do not have adjustable control arms nor do lesser spring lifts. The stock DL is set so the pinion and the output of the tcase are parallel. if the the two are confused ;Houston, we have a problem.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 09:20 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Your investigation seems to leave out the main issue it seems the op did not set the cardan correctly. This will cause things to fail and fail fast. most people that run BB's do not spend 1K on new drive shafts. BB's do not have adjustable control arms nor do lesser spring lifts. The stock DL is set so the pinion and the output of the tcase are parallel. if the the two are confused ;Houston, we have a problem.
222Doc, this is Houston, we are seeing the problem here too. Some will never learn. I thought I couldnt make it any more clear with the pictures that came directly from TW's site, but I guess not.
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Unread 02-01-2014, 11:18 AM   #52
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i have three of tom wood's shafts on my jeeps among other things he makes or sells.
he gets my support and business because his product is solid and he's not afraid to answer his phone himself and listen to my stupid questions
thanks tom!
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Unread 02-02-2014, 12:52 PM   #53
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Don't apologize, some people hear get a little too but hurt if you say bad things about certain companies. Did you experience any vibrations after you installed it? I not I canít imagine that your drive ine angels were too far out, but who knows.

I believe in the center of that joint there is small grease fitting on the yoke that has the centering ball (not sure if I have the terms right) that requires a needle valve on your grease gun to get to. Did you every grease that?
So do you have butt hurt yet??? because we're not talking about your "brand"?
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Unread 02-03-2014, 07:00 AM   #54
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So do you have butt hurt yet??? because we're not talking about your "brand"?
I have no issue with Woods. I am planning to swap one for my front shaft after reading Stu Olson review of the Woods shaft. If the OP didn't feel any vibes form the shaft long before the issue I still say it is the center ball, either defective or lack of maintenance. My rear shaft would have been a wood’s shaft but JE Reel was able to ship it out faster so I got theirs. AS far as brand loyalty, I usually go with who has a good reputation and can ship the fastest.

If the OP is mad he is mad, noting wrong with that.
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Unread 02-03-2014, 10:26 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Your investigation seems to leave out the main issue it seems the op did not set the cardan correctly. This will cause things to fail and fail fast. most people that run BB's do not spend 1K on new drive shafts. BB's do not have adjustable control arms nor do lesser spring lifts. The stock DL is set so the pinion and the output of the tcase are parallel. if the the two are confused ;Houston, we have a problem.
So does the pinion still have to be adjusted on a front driveshaft, which appeared to be the same design as the TW one?
And my TW shaft was a lot less than a grand, I dunno about yours. Actually, it was cheaper than the stock one...


Anyway, I didn't take any more pictures, I have been focusing on being able to get to class today. I managed to procure my father's old Camry, which unfortunately is the temporary solution to the problem. Next weekend I will be able to work on it more, but as for now I am jeepless.
Thanks for all of y'alls help, and for setting me straight with my premature blame.

ps: I edited the first post so anyone else looking at this thread won't get caught up in the foolishness.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:30 AM   #56
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So I came back last night and went out to look at the heep, where i found a sizable puddle of transmission fluid. I assume these things are related. Does the t-case also have trans. Fluid? If the trans is bad, and can that have broken the shaft and caused the knocking with wheelspeed?

2014-02-06-20.08.38.jpg
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:40 AM   #57
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The transfer uses ATF.

Get under there and figure out where it's coming from. Anything else is just speculation at this point.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:47 AM   #58
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The transfer uses ATF.

Get under there and figure out where it's coming from. Anything else is just speculation at this point.
^^This^^
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:55 AM   #59
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OP, did you ever grease the centering ball or the U joints?
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Unread 02-07-2014, 08:06 AM   #60
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It seems to be coming from towards the back of the trans, behind the skid plate. That is where the t-case is, correct? I have greased all the bits that had the greaser thing. (zerk fitting?) The install instructions said to grease after deep mud and whatnot, so i did.
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