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Old 08-09-2009, 09:46 PM   #16
geepguy99
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Originally Posted by Terrible2 View Post
where did you get the sander from? and how much was it?
I mostly used sheets of sand paper and did it by hand. I did have a palm sander that I used for some of the flat areas.

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Originally Posted by poobub View Post
Man I have been impatiently waiting for someone to match the spice so I could see if its something I would want to do. That thing is beautiful, very nice job. I love how you did the roll cage white, nice touch. Do you have a paint code you used for the spice?
Here is what the paint shop gave me..


You might want to go a bit more than the 10% as called out in the instructions cause the liner lightened it up a hair. Also, get yourself a mixing cup from the paint shop so you can get the right amounts easier than trying to find the lines in the Raptor bottles. I got a qt. cup to measure hardener and color out, then a 2.5qt cup to mix everything in. I found that 750ml of liner, 250ml of hardener, and 100ml of the tint didn't all fit in the bottle with the spray gun screwed on top

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Old 08-10-2009, 12:43 PM   #17
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Congrats, it looks really nice. First spice u-pol job I have seen.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:49 PM   #18
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That looks great!

I almost considered doing mine grey to match the interior panels, but the carpet was black and I've gotten so used to seeing it without carpet at all...
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:25 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by geepguy99 View Post
I mostly used sheets of sand paper and did it by hand. I did have a palm sander that I used for some of the flat areas.


Here is what the paint shop gave me..


You might want to go a bit more than the 10% as called out in the instructions cause the liner lightened it up a hair. Also, get yourself a mixing cup from the paint shop so you can get the right amounts easier than trying to find the lines in the Raptor bottles. I got a qt. cup to measure hardener and color out, then a 2.5qt cup to mix everything in. I found that 750ml of liner, 250ml of hardener, and 100ml of the tint didn't all fit in the bottle with the spray gun screwed on top
I appreciate the info. I will be taking a few days off sometime next month to try to do this project, and I will be sure to update you how it turned out.
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:57 PM   #20
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so you literally got on your hands and knees and scraped with sand paper for hours? isnt there an easier way?
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:48 PM   #21
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FWIW... I tried anything and EVERYTHING trying to speed it up and in the end it really is easier to just go at it with sandpaper by hand. Everything else I tried was overkill and I ended up stripping it down to bare metal in a lot of places, which isn't necessary. Just hit it up with 180 - 220 grit and scratch it up good. No need to get too crazy like I did
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:00 PM   #22
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oh, so you dont need to get it to bare metal, just get rid of anything which would be on top of the paint?
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:35 PM   #23
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Awesome job. What kind of spray gun did you use, and what is the clean up like? That stuff looks like it would be similar to trying to spray glue out of a paint gun?
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:23 AM   #24
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Thanks guys, I am happy with the way it turned out. I hadn't seen any spice done in the Raptor either and was a bit worried in the beginning, but it ended up turning out nicely and saved myself a bunch of $$ vs. linex or rhino. It isn't as thick as the Linex I had in my last truck, but you can always add some more bottles to it if you want it thicker. I used 5 on my tub and coated it well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrible2 View Post
so you literally got on your hands and knees and scraped with sand paper for hours? isnt there an easier way?
Basically, Yes. I had a palm sander which worked good for the rear, but as stated, it ends up just taking it all down to bare metal if not careful. I tried to use the palm sander on most of the tub for the flat surfaces, then sand paper by hand to get all the ridges and crevices (sp?) There is no easy way to do it all, and by the end of it I know why they charge so much to do it now.

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Originally Posted by mdawg4x4 View Post
Awesome job. What kind of spray gun did you use, and what is the clean up like? That stuff looks like it would be similar to trying to spray glue out of a paint gun?
There is a gun that comes with the kit. It is basically an undercoating gun that just sprays/splatters the liner all over. There isnt a lot of overspray when doing the tub, but doing a round rollbar there was a ton. I believe some kits dont have a gun that comes with them, so just make sure you get one with the kit. Cant beat less than $115 shipped to the door. I paid less than $60 for both colors of tint and some buckets.

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I appreciate the info. I will be taking a few days off sometime next month to try to do this project, and I will be sure to update you how it turned out.
Sure thing, post up some pictures when you get done! Just be sure to give it a few days to cure. It feels fairly dry to the touch soon after shooting, but is still soft. I am keeping my interior out this week while on vacation to let everything cure up then putting it all back in.
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:27 AM   #25
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oh, so you dont need to get it to bare metal, just get rid of anything which would be on top of the paint?
Preferably NOT to bare metal. If you sand down to bare metal you'll need to use a good primer on the metal before applying the bedliner. You only need to scratch up the paint to give the bedliner something to adhere to.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:08 AM   #26
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I've heard of people painting on top of the liner, but you mixed paint in with the liner? I'd like to do red on mine, but not sure bow to go about making it red...info please.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:55 PM   #27
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I've heard of people painting on top of the liner, but you mixed paint in with the liner? I'd like to do red on mine, but not sure bow to go about making it red...info please.
There is a tintable version of U-Pol Raptor. After adding the hardener to the bottle, you add 100ml of paint with the color you want. The only issue is that the bottle is a little bit too small so it is easier to mix it outside the bottle and then pour it back in. This is important because if you don't, the bottle is too full to shake properly.
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Old 08-11-2009, 01:37 PM   #28
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3M sanding sponges work really well too. I used one on mine.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:00 PM   #29
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So put all the liner and hardner and paint all in one bucket, mix and pour into canister to shoot on?
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:36 PM   #30
geepguy99
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Originally Posted by wrangler2007 View Post
I've heard of people painting on top of the liner, but you mixed paint in with the liner? I'd like to do red on mine, but not sure bow to go about making it red...info please.
Just get a tintable kit and then add your tint (no hardeners in the tint or anything like that) to it. I took a piece of my interior to the paint shop and had them match it. Just gave them my paint code for the white.

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3M sanding sponges work really well too. I used one on mine.
Yup, I used a couple on mine. Work well for the curved surfaces.

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Originally Posted by wrangler2007 View Post
So put all the liner and hardner and paint all in one bucket, mix and pour into canister to shoot on?
When I did mine, I poured the hardener in the bottle and shook it up (the liner is thick without it). Then dumped it into the bucket, added my color and mixed it up. Then poured the bottle about 3/4 way full and shot it on. You have to be careful not to tilt the bottle too much or liner can come out the suction hole on the top of the gun...dont ask me how i know...
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