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Unread 02-12-2009, 10:53 PM   #91
SuperWade2
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Update to an old thread...

I freakin' HATE dealing with the Wilwood Brakes on this Axle...

I emailed Solid Axle...they said that most customers are happy with them and I need to call Wilwood, don't bother us, goodbye... I contact Wilwood, they first tell me they don't make kits for Jeeps ...followup with "well those pads shouldn't be making that much noise, and the braking "should" be much better... I tried removing the potential "glaze" (that I didn't really see) from the pads and rotors, re-bed per their recommendation... made everything worse...horrible smell coming from the pads, and the ear splitting squeal is pretty much any time I touch the brake pedal regardless of speed or pressure.

So far I've replaced the Calipers (had some "sticking" early on), a shattered caliper bracket and I have a set of pads on order... I have more $$$ into this kit than what an entire replacement disc set would cost.

I'm "this-close" to giving up on these things... SO frustrated...These things just suck balls and I'm tired of dealing with them...

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Unread 02-13-2009, 06:27 AM   #92
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Man, glad I came upon this thread, I've bee looking into solid axles for my Jeep, but will for sure keep the willwood brakes from being shipped to me.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 07:47 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I contact Wilwood, they first tell me they don't make kits for Jeeps
Technically, they don't. They make brake kits for a D44 that went into a Jeep. I wish I had something to say other than the wilwood brakes on my Solid HP60 work fine. Hopefully someone with brake knowledge can chime in and offer some suggestions.

I would keep calling Wilwood. "No one else has a problem" is not exactly customer service.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 08:02 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradleyfitz View Post
Hopefully someone with brake knowledge can chime in and offer some suggestions.
First couple pages of the thread...VanCo, MrBlaine and Jerry B all "suggested" that there might be problems... I just didn't listen...

Sw2

Does anyone know if this might be an option as a replacement?

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=1229

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Unread 02-13-2009, 10:24 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
First couple pages of the thread...VanCo, MrBlaine and Jerry B all "suggested" that there might be problems... I just didn't listen...

Sw2

Does anyone know if this might be an option as a replacement?

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=1229

Depends one what housing end bolt pattern you have.

That style of brake is available for two housing end bolt patterns. The ones from Currie use the Ford Big bearing housing end pattern and are the same as on the Ford Explorer 8.8.

It's also available in the Dana 44 housing end bolt pattern from the back of a TJ or Liberty.

If you can get in touch with Solid and ask them what bearing is in the housing end, that will get us much closer.

Set 10 is D-44
Set 20 is Ford 9" or 8.8
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Unread 02-13-2009, 10:26 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Depends one what housing end bolt pattern you have.

That style of brake is available for two housing end bolt patterns. The ones from Currie use the Ford Big bearing housing end pattern and are the same as on the Ford Explorer 8.8.

It's also available in the Dana 44 housing end bolt pattern from the back of a TJ or Liberty.

If you can get in touch with Solid and ask them what bearing is in the housing end, that will get us much closer.

Set 10 is D-44
Set 20 is Ford 9" or 8.8
Set 20 is what Matt @ Solid has set before...
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Unread 02-13-2009, 11:10 AM   #97
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Whats up with the willwood calipers.
We use them on our desert car with no issues. unless of course you bend a rotor and it melts the caliper.

Are they shimmed properly?
is the proper thickness rotor being used?
What master cylinder?
proportioning valve?
so on......
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Unread 02-13-2009, 11:28 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by crusty1007 View Post
Whats up with the willwood calipers.
We use them on our desert car with no issues. unless of course you bend a rotor and it melts the caliper.

Are they shimmed properly?
is the proper thickness rotor being used?
What master cylinder?
proportioning valve?
so on......
Most racing vehicles using wilwoods do not have power brakes, which is how Wilwoods are designed. Put a booster behind them and bad stuff happens. Put my hydroboost behind them and BOOM.

If you check out wilwood you will see they don't recommend pressures beyond 1000-1,100 lbs.

Manual Brakes: 700-900 Max Lbs of pressure
Power Brakes Single Diaphragm: 1,000-1,100 Max Lbs of pressure
Power Brakes Dual Diaphragm: 1,300-1,600 Max Lbs of pressure
Hydroboost Brakes: 2,000-3,000 Max Lbs of pressure


Now let's take this a bit further. If you're running a working stock proportioning valve (Stock meaning you did not modify it, Stock meaning it's not adjustable, Stock means it came in your vehicle originally). Then you can take those max pressure down 25-40%.

Example: You have a TJ stock booster and master cylinder, you are putting out 1,600 lbs of pressure to your front calipers. You are using the stock proportioning valve so take away 25%-40% for the rears. So, your TJ rears are seeing 960-1,200 lbs of pressure. That's right around where willwood wants you to be, in most cases putting them on the rear axle is fine.

"That's exactly what I did, why am I having a problem?"

Several possibilities.

1. It's not a stock valve, you took internet advice and either removed the o-ring and/or the spring of your valve, you're now getting the same (or close to) pressure to the back as you are to the front. You screwed yourself.

2. The prop valve isn't functioning.

3. You think you have a stock valve but are not the original owner, it's been changed out, screwed with or maybe even an adjustable now.

4. You're booster is just a screaming *** booster and putting out more pressure then usual (yeah, it happens).

This is all kinds of silly considering there's several kits out there using Original Jeep rear disc brakes or Ford rear disc brakes that don't have these problems at all. The best advice I can give anyone is this, if you're planning on using or are using power brakes, don't use Willwood calipers.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 11:42 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
Set 20 is what Matt @ Solid has set before...
Set 20 typically fits the Ford housing end that the Currie Brakes bolt up to. The only issue will be the axle bearing offset to make sure the rotors line up in the caliper brackets.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 12:15 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vancopbs View Post
Example: You have a TJ stock booster and master cylinder, you are putting out 1,600 lbs of pressure to your front calipers. You are using the stock proportioning valve so take away 25%-40% for the rears. So, your TJ rears are seeing 960-1,200 lbs of pressure. That's right around where willwood wants you to be, in most cases putting them on the rear axle is fine.

"That's exactly what I did, why am I having a problem?"

Several possibilities.

1. It's not a stock valve, you took internet advice and either removed the o-ring and/or the spring of your valve, you're now getting the same (or close to) pressure to the back as you are to the front. You screwed yourself.

3. You think you have a stock valve but are not the original owner, it's been changed out, screwed with or maybe even an adjustable now.
I'll take Door #1 (and or #3) for the Loss, Van...

The shop that installed the Axle and Brakes removed the o-ring and installed a Wilwood Prop Valve...Shop #2 removed prop valve and verified that the ring was in fact gone...

So neither of these were "screwing myself" exacltly, expect for maybe for taking my Jeep to shops who didn't know about these brakes...

Option 1 - Get New Pads, continue to futz with these things and never be happy with the way they perform...

Option 2 - Get the Axle Bearing Offset for my Axle (I have the Kit # of the Wilwoods, should I be able to match that offset), **** Can the Wilwood's and get an Explorer Disc Kit (will I still have probs since I now have a "modified" stock valve...?).
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Unread 02-13-2009, 12:21 PM   #101
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Depends on the money, I don't sell any of this crap so I don't know the costs. I see you having two options.

1. Get a new stock prop valve installed the way it originally was and replaced all the bad **** in the rear.

2. Buy a Ford or Jeep rear disc kit. At that point I'd put the adjustable back on (if it's not there), but the stock is still better assuming you're street driving.


What I would do? I'd buy the Currie stuff if it will fit since everything Currie is awesome (my opinion) and the stock valve.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 12:24 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post

Option 2 - Get the Axle Bearing Offset for my Axle (I have the Kit # of the Wilwoods, should I be able to match that offset), **** Can the Wilwood's and get an Explorer Disc Kit (will I still have probs since I now have a "modified" stock valve...?).

If you get serious about this option, I can measure my spare axle that has the Set 20 bearings on it and help you figure out what's needed.
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Unread 02-13-2009, 02:07 PM   #103
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If you get serious about this option, I can measure my spare axle that has the Set 20 bearings on it and help you figure out what's needed.
Yah, after this weekend of Snow wheeling up in the Sierra's, i'm ready to dump these things...the wet snow is making them suck even worse than dry... I'm ready to be done with them...
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Unread 02-14-2009, 07:17 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
Update to an old thread...
I emailed Solid Axle...they said that most customers are happy with them and I need to call Wilwood, don't bother us, goodbye...
Solid Axle Customer Service - What's that? (Oh! but they pride themselves on it )

Just in case your not aware Solid Axle Australia and Solid Axle in the US are one in the same, their diff covers and centres are made over here; then shipped to you guys for assembly. Apparently the tubes, knuckles etc for the diffs assemble in Australia come from the US.

Here's a few Aussie experiences (I'm not saying that the US side of Solid is the same? They have actually helped out in resolving a situation that I am aware of ~ with the poor service on the Aussie side of the World);

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ighlight=solid
It's good how they undercut the prices of their own retailers

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ighlight=solid

And theirs some of the Rockcrusher / Solid saga here (bottom of page 2) - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ad.php?t=65168
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Unread 02-14-2009, 07:36 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
Update to an old thread...

I freakin' HATE dealing with the Wilwood Brakes on this Axle...

I emailed Solid Axle...they said that most customers are happy with them and I need to call Wilwood, don't bother us, goodbye... I contact Wilwood, they first tell me they don't make kits for Jeeps ...followup with "well those pads shouldn't be making that much noise, and the braking "should" be much better... I tried removing the potential "glaze" (that I didn't really see) from the pads and rotors, re-bed per their recommendation... made everything worse...horrible smell coming from the pads, and the ear splitting squeal is pretty much any time I touch the brake pedal regardless of speed or pressure.

So far I've replaced the Calipers (had some "sticking" early on), a shattered caliper bracket and I have a set of pads on order... I have more $$$ into this kit than what an entire replacement disc set would cost.

I'm "this-close" to giving up on these things... SO frustrated...These things just suck balls and I'm tired of dealing with them...
after the dust settles. If you want rid of the Wilwoods, find me.
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