Sold my 4-door JK Rubicon and, Bought a 2-Door TJ Rubicon - lift questions
I will admit that I used my JK hard. But, the motor had to be replaced, there were differential leaks and I really felt it was time to move on. So, I sold it and bought a hot-rod SUV (Trailblazer SS). I thought that I could let go of the Jeep.
Then I came to the realization that I really missed my off-road adventures. So, I bought a 2006 TJ Rubicon. I will not miss the JK motor and am looking forward to a long life enjoying this TJ.
Now, can someone tell me in one sentence, what is the best lift kit for this?
I wheel in the NW - mud, water, climbs etc. I want a real lift - not a body lift - this will not be a pavement princess. I am thinking 3 to 4 -inches. I want to run 33's (TJ is auto tranny) - I will add bumpers, winch, rock sliders - but that is about it. I hate these Wrangler tires - I want my Mid Terrain BFG's back (Northwest Mud!!). I have heard talk of short arm vs. long arm and am also told I will need to address axle (slip yoke eliminator). I have culled through the threads and have seen a lot of discension among forum members.
If you have my same year and model, please tell me what has worked for you.
Zone 4.25 combo lift it a good one on a budget. It's a 3" spring lift with a 1.25 body and a 1" mml.
Or go with the Currie 4" lift, one of the best short arm lifts out there.
The currie kit comes with a new front track bar, and an anti rock. Also uses johnny joint control arms. I would do a 3" spring lift and a 1.25 body lift so you can do a mml lift instead of a t-case drop. A small body lift also gives you the option to tummy tuck the jeep for much better clearance, which will require a CV rear shaft.
Savvy makes a real nice 3" suspension lift, pretty much the same kit as the currie 4" but an inch lower. I would pair that with a 1.25 body lift and 1" mml if you can afford it.
I would go with a 3 inch lift with a 1.25 body lift. The gearing isn't good, but it will be livable for the moment with 33's. Upgrade to a set of short arms with Johnny Joints(Currie/Savvy is a good place to look.) The adjustable JJ arms will also allow you to change you pinion angles when doing the lift/ tummy tuck (Undercover Fab works/Savvy have good ptions here for aluminium transfercase skid versions). You do not need to adjust your transfer case(slip yoke eliminator) as you have a Rubicon model and it is already done. You might need a longer rear driveshaft, but that would be about it.
In reality Just call up Gerald at Savvy and let him sort you out(have your credit card handy lol)
Thanks for the input. I don't really have a budget yet. Definitely will never put a body lift on my Jeep. I had a 4-inch lift on my JK (Superlift with Bilstein 5100) added 35's had to re-gear to 5.13. It was a good setup. I wheel with a friend whose dad has a TJ with 33's. It really seemed to be right for the size of the chassis. He had a 4-inch long arm kit. I think I want to stick with short arm.
I do have to ask why are you so against body lifts? A proper 1.25 inch body lift allows you to run the best tummy tucks and raise your gas tank without major modification. You can't even really notice the difference over stock. Now if you just mean the 2 inch and above then I completely understand.
I am coming from a JK. I thought there was no benfit to a body lift, other than your rig looking like it is lifted without being lifted (wonder bra lift). I put it in the same category as the guys that use 22-inch rims on a JK.
By your implication, is there a wheeling benefit to a body lift?? What do you mean when you say tummy tuck? I am here to learn and would appreciate a lesson here.
By your implication, is there a wheeling benefit to a body lift?? What do you mean when you say tummy tuck? I am here to learn and would appreciate a lesson here.[/QUOTE]
Body lift= more clearance for you wheels.Lifting tub higher from frame. most folks will tell ya 1.25" or less is best. I've seen some knuckle heads with 3" BL's and no way to shift into 4LO due to shifter binding.... flame suit on.
Tummy tuck= transfer case skid plate that is more flush with your frame rails thus giving you more clearance. Issues with this are you may need to modify your exhaust and drive line to have it work right.
2012 JKU Rubi,Auto, 4.10's "takes a licking and keeps on ticking"
99 Sahara D30/44 w ARB's and 4.10's, Warn 9.5TI,AA SYE & Wood's shaft,Raingler nets,Jeeperman trail skids,Warn gas tank and steering box skid's, BDS 2" springs, Currie control arms,32" MTR's,AEV Bridger wheels, custom made tire carrier bumper,Dynomax cat back JKS quicker disco's.PSC Trail Cage,Banks header,LiteDots.PSC Trail Corners.
92 CDN M101 trailer, 33" TSL Swampers,camo paint. Original camo tarp.
I have a 2004 TJ Rubicon. Had a 3.5" Rubicon Express Superflex lift installed, added Bilstein 5100 shocks, and am now adding a RE CV driveshaft and RE3783 Upper adjustable rear control arms to get the pitman angle just right. Running BFG 33" KM2's on my stock 16" moabs w/ spidertrack spacers. So far love the look and the ride!