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Unread 03-23-2013, 08:58 PM   #991
MisfitSeven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris86vw
Finally got to doing mine, bought all the materials last summer but then I was traveling for work constantly and moving at the same time. Decided it needed to get done so got to it today. I still need to make a new skid, have a piece of aluminum I picked up last summer just need to drill and get it in place. Also need to paint it and rebuild the exhaust which I wanted to anyway. Unfortunately on the test drive I pulled the front shaft a part, apparently it is no longer long enough so I need to sort that out. When I did my super short SYE late last summer I built the shaft based on the tuck (know I would have no time to take it off road) so that is now perfect length.

I forgot to take pics of it in place once it was all done, phones out in the shop and I need to get home to walk the pups so I'll post up those later.
Why is the plate offset on your new crossmember?

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Unread 03-23-2013, 09:28 PM   #992
chris86vw
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Rear ds is fine, already built from an xj front shaft last summer (same with the one before the ss sye)

The front is the current problem it pulled apart on the test drive. I didn't put it back together since I needed to get home but it looked like it was only engaged about half an inch when I held the two halves in place. Will pull it tomorrow when I go back in to measure.

Stock xj front shaft is shorter than a stock tj shaft from what I have read, only junkyard I know of is closed tomorrow so can't check.

My guess is that my tc is slightly further back then most after the swap despite trying build it around a stock tc location, oh well. Guess i'll decide on a new suspension setup and leave it 2wd until then so I can build something custom.
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Unread 03-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #993
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What I meant was that your mount isn't centered between the driver and passenger side frame rails, not front to back. Why?
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Unread 03-23-2013, 10:09 PM   #994
chris86vw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
What I meant was that your mount isn't centered between the driver and passenger side frame rails, not front to back. Why?
I was replying to previous comments about using an xj front shaft.

The mounting points on the trans are not centered between the frame rails stock. The Cummins to gm bellhousing adapter clocks the trans slightly to the driverside which put my shifter into the side of the center console. Prior to the tt I slotted the stock mount so I could move the trans left to right to get into all the gears, so it is probably slightly more to the passenger side than most but still no more then a 1/4 inch or so.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 09:32 AM   #995
chris86vw
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some more pics from when I came into the shop this morning:




cross brace installed, ignore the few mig welds you can see, was using the shop one which is ancient and has been acting up, after some frustration I got unlazy and got mine out of the car the rest are much nicer, you just can't see them. The brace itself is tig welded but the brackets to the frame are mig:





And the clearance of the front output to the brace, super close its just barely touching right now with the axles pulled out and at an angle well beyond that of what it would see at full droop. I had no rubbing with the jeep in the air and axle all the way down so its future proof to the point of any lift I would do, plus a hp30 is coming soon.

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Unread 03-24-2013, 02:25 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris86vw

I was replying to previous comments about using an xj front shaft.

The mounting points on the trans are not centered between the frame rails stock. The Cummins to gm bellhousing adapter clocks the trans slightly to the driverside which put my shifter into the side of the center console. Prior to the tt I slotted the stock mount so I could move the trans left to right to get into all the gears, so it is probably slightly more to the passenger side than most but still no more then a 1/4 inch or so.
Very good. I wasn't aware of your unique setup. It actually looks just like my crossmember.

When I swapped my 4.0L in place of the 2.5L the motor mounts moved right before burning them in place. This placed my trans crossmember mount a few inches off of center. So I built my own using tabs, tube, and half of the stock mount. It came out off center just like yours, which lines up perfectly with the offset of my 8.8.

So, are you planning on swapping out your rear axle? I think an 8.8 is right up your alley.
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Unread 03-24-2013, 10:05 PM   #997
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I waited 6 weeks one excuse after another, finally gave up.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 06:00 AM   #998
chris86vw
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Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
So, are you planning on swapping out your rear axle? I think an 8.8 is right up your alley.
Yup 8.8 sometime sooner than later. I hadn't done it since I was deciding on gearing. Now that I'm settled on 3.07 I'll get to doing it. Well now I have to decide if I want to 4link or not...

Unfortunately all the 8.8s with that gearing are drum I believe from my research
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Unread 03-25-2013, 06:18 AM   #999
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wait, you want 3.07 gears?
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:06 AM   #1000
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wait, you want 3.07 gears?
sounds about right for a Cummins 4BT swap, depending on tire size.

redline is like 3000rpms, and you probably want it to run around 1500-2000 rpm on the highway.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 07:10 AM   #1001
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that is what i wanted to know. just seemed odd, but i have no experience with the cummins
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Unread 03-25-2013, 10:33 AM   #1002
chris86vw
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
sounds about right for a Cummins 4BT swap, depending on tire size.

redline is like 3000rpms, and you probably want it to run around 1500-2000 rpm on the highway.
hey now I have the 32000 rpm spring in it!!

But yes 3.07s put me at about 1700 or so doing 70mph on the highway with 31s or 33s, forget my last calculations which is pretty much ideal. Right now with the 4.10s and the 31s doing 70 down the highway I am over 2200 rpm I think (no tach and forget what it worked out to) which is sort of fine but out of its efficiency and doesn't give you any room to speed up if needed. 3.07s it pulls like a freight train to 90+ I drove it up from GA to WV end of last summer with the 4.10s and it was miserable.

with the 4.10s and the torque though my twisty hilly drive to work though I rarely need to leave 5th gear I can go from 20-60+ never shifting, but I"m always looking for 8th gear when it is straight.



Anyway my new trans brace is making fitting my exhaust quite fun, decided to give up on reconfiguring the existing pieces and just starting from scratch again. The downpipe was stainless and the rest was mild which I wanted to redo anyway as well as get rid of the muffler. So she sits while it snows unable to be driven.

The few rips around the area with no exhaust on it the trans feels great, much more solid, no more hitting stuff in the cup holders or jamming my finger on the parking brake if I put it in reverse before releasing the brake. Have not warmed it up fully but I suspect cabin vibrations will be up a bit, however it will be worth it with the way the trans feels now.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #1003
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Anyone have a good online source for aluminum sheet for the skid? my local steel supplier cant or wont bother to get anything more than really thin stuff.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 11:55 AM   #1004
chris86vw
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Anyone have a good online source for aluminum sheet for the skid? my local steel supplier cant or wont bother to get anything more than really thin stuff.
Metal supermarkets, not sure how far any of their pnw stores are to you, but you can order online and pickup in store if they aren't too far.
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Unread 03-25-2013, 12:10 PM   #1005
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I'm not sold on aluminum for the center skid.
My first real trip out in some rocks with my 1/4" UCF skid, and it's dented in pretty bad.
Not sure if I want to replace it or what, kinda bummed with the cost/performance ratio on the part.
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