Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05
That being said, either method should take you only a few minutes.
If I remember correctly, UCF just has a hole there which is obviously faster in respect to oil changes, but it leaves something to get hung up on. Certainly not a deal breaker, just something to think about.
Another good point... So basically dropping the skid on either is not that big of a deal, but which option do you do you have on your rig? How much experience do you have with both? And ultimately which one do you recommend more often?
As for recommendations, that's up to you. They're all good products, can't really go wrong with any. The big selling point on Savvy's skid for me was ending up with a completely smooth surface with no bolt heads or anything to get hung up on.
If I had to do it again I'd make my own, mainly just to say I did. Ie..
Well as for making my own that isn't really an option , but you said that It's completely flat with no bolts to get caught on... Does the UCF have bolts that hang down like that, or is it just a small amount that wouldn't really even be noticeable unless you hit a rock "perfectly"
More than likely if you're asking that question it won't be an issue for you. Either way it will be a big improvement over stock; like I said, it's something you need to figure out what you need for your wheeling style. It's not really something someone else can answer.
I understand that and considering the fact that I only have the opportunity to go places where the skid would even come in handy a few times per year anyways, so based on that I believe the ucf is probably my better option. Thanks for your input
Hey quick question. If I have a lj rubi with a 3" sl and a 1.25 bl,1"mml. And am getting the ucf ultra high with their lopro mount. I know I will need upper rear control arms and I already have rokmen lowers. My question is will I need a new rear drive shaft. It a Rubin so I have a fixed yoke. But I assume that it will be equal to a 5-6 drive train lift so a new shaft is required. Is this right?
Originally Posted by undercoverfab View Post
When I did my UCF ultra hi skid I needed a longer driveshaft on my 05 Rubi. I got it from Tatton in Utah. It was affordable good craftsmanship and had triple sealed Spicer 1330`s. Works great! With the rear hanging it did bind a little so I run a limiting strap in the center of the rear.
2015 Jeep Wrangler Willy`s Edition with 2.5 inch Tera Flex BB with quick disco`s. Much more to come!
Originally Posted by RubiconChris View Post
Got a question for ya. Im currently running a transfer-case drop on my np231 with the stock skid and running 3'' coils and flat flares in the back. Im gonna add a Rokmen 1/2'' body lift and add a BD 1''MML. Also gonna drop down to the 2'' BDS rear coils to help the driveline angles some. Will this combo allow me to get rid of the transfer-case drop? Also with your lo-pro mount, I'm thinking that the original high-clearance skid would work without an sye/cv ds. Am I correct in thinking this?
Originally Posted by MountainMan864 View Post
The LOPRO mount and the no body lift skid will save you over 1" of ground clearance from stock, but it will keep the transfer case within 1/2" of stock height.
It's likely you may be able to ditch the transfer case drop with the 2" springs and mml, but it may depend on how heavy your jeep is in the rear end.
I don't actually make an extra clearance skid for the early model TJ. It's either no body lift (1" deep) or ultra high clearance (2" deep).
Oh ok. My rear end isnt that heavy. aluminum trail corner guards and stock bumper. I dont do a lot of rocks just mud and nice trails. Im thinking the no-body lift skid might just be what I need even though i'll have a 1/2in body lift. With the MML and Lo-Pro Mount i'm sure ill be fine with the no-body lift skid. Why not have all 3 models for us early TJs? I have an AX-15 too if that matters.
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