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Savvy Aluminum Gas Tank SkidFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Stainless Steel Door Hinge Pins

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Unread 01-29-2013, 11:00 PM   #961
rchase559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05
Oh ok couldnt tell from the pictures
The full Savvy underarmor has it while the modular underarmor doesn't IIRC

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Unread 01-29-2013, 11:03 PM   #962
Ljcrawler05
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Alright thanks for the heads up on that. Just gotta decide which one I want now.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 05:21 AM   #963
geiman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Alright thanks for the heads up on that. Just gotta decide which one I want now.
If you have a door that needs to be unbolted (ie the full UA), it's pretty much the same amount of work when you're looking at either Savvy's full UA or modular UA. Since the skid hugs the oil pan so closely, it can be a little more difficult to remove/install the bolts closest to it. Because of that, I'd say it would be just as quick to drop the front skid than it is to remove the oil pan door.

That being said, either method should take you only a few minutes.

If I remember correctly, UCF just has a hole there which is obviously faster in respect to oil changes, but it leaves something to get hung up on. Certainly not a deal breaker, just something to think about.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 06:43 AM   #964
Ljcrawler05
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Another good point... So basically dropping the skid on either is not that big of a deal, but which option do you do you have on your rig? How much experience do you have with both? And ultimately which one do you recommend more often?
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Unread 01-30-2013, 07:00 AM   #965
geiman
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Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Another good point... So basically dropping the skid on either is not that big of a deal, but which option do you do you have on your rig? How much experience do you have with both? And ultimately which one do you recommend more often?
I have the full/original UA.

As for recommendations, that's up to you. They're all good products, can't really go wrong with any. The big selling point on Savvy's skid for me was ending up with a completely smooth surface with no bolt heads or anything to get hung up on.

If I had to do it again I'd make my own, mainly just to say I did. Ie..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/so...l#post13651515
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Unread 01-30-2013, 07:07 AM   #966
Ljcrawler05
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Well as for making my own that isn't really an option , but you said that It's completely flat with no bolts to get caught on... Does the UCF have bolts that hang down like that, or is it just a small amount that wouldn't really even be noticeable unless you hit a rock "perfectly"
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Unread 01-30-2013, 07:15 AM   #967
geiman
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Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Well as for making my own that isn't really an option , but you said that It's completely flat with no bolts to get caught on... Does the UCF have bolts that hang down like that, or is it just a small amount that wouldn't really even be noticeable unless you hit a rock "perfectly"
Depends on how/where you wheel. Some people put a TT on and say how they hardly ever hit their belly again, whereas others wheel where they still hit it easily. In particular I seem to grind the sides where normally the 3 large bolts hang down on the stock skid; being flat there helps me out, but not everyone might benefit from that.

More than likely if you're asking that question it won't be an issue for you. Either way it will be a big improvement over stock; like I said, it's something you need to figure out what you need for your wheeling style. It's not really something someone else can answer.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 07:27 AM   #968
Ljcrawler05
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I understand that and considering the fact that I only have the opportunity to go places where the skid would even come in handy a few times per year anyways, so based on that I believe the ucf is probably my better option. Thanks for your input
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Unread 02-01-2013, 05:05 AM   #969
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Hey quick question. If I have a lj rubi with a 3" sl and a 1.25 bl,1"mml. And am getting the ucf ultra high with their lopro mount. I know I will need upper rear control arms and I already have rokmen lowers. My question is will I need a new rear drive shaft. It a Rubin so I have a fixed yoke. But I assume that it will be equal to a 5-6 drive train lift so a new shaft is required. Is this right?
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Unread 02-01-2013, 05:41 AM   #970
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Originally Posted by kylekae View Post
Hey quick question. If I have a lj rubi with a 3" sl and a 1.25 bl,1"mml. And am getting the ucf ultra high with their lopro mount. I know I will need upper rear control arms and I already have rokmen lowers. My question is will I need a new rear drive shaft. It a Rubin so I have a fixed yoke. But I assume that it will be equal to a 5-6 drive train lift so a new shaft is required. Is this right?

Yes. I would plan to install a new driveshaft when the skid goes on.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 07:49 AM   #971
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Yes. I would plan to install a new driveshaft when the skid goes on.

When I did my UCF ultra hi skid I needed a longer driveshaft on my 05 Rubi. I got it from Tatton in Utah. It was affordable good craftsmanship and had triple sealed Spicer 1330`s. Works great! With the rear hanging it did bind a little so I run a limiting strap in the center of the rear.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 08:13 AM   #972
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Originally Posted by RubiconChris View Post
When I did my UCF ultra hi skid I needed a longer driveshaft on my 05 Rubi. I got it from Tatton in Utah. It was affordable good craftsmanship and had triple sealed Spicer 1330`s. Works great! With the rear hanging it did bind a little so I run a limiting strap in the center of the rear.
You did get a double cardan shaft made, right? If so you may be able to clearance it a little and get rid of the binding.
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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:46 PM   #973
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Got a question for ya. Im currently running a transfer-case drop on my np231 with the stock skid and running 3'' coils and flat flares in the back. Im gonna add a Rokmen 1/2'' body lift and add a BD 1''MML. Also gonna drop down to the 2'' BDS rear coils to help the driveline angles some. Will this combo allow me to get rid of the transfer-case drop? Also with your lo-pro mount, I'm thinking that the original high-clearance skid would work without an sye/cv ds. Am I correct in thinking this?
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Unread 02-20-2013, 02:59 PM   #974
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Got a question for ya. Im currently running a transfer-case drop on my np231 with the stock skid and running 3'' coils and flat flares in the back. Im gonna add a Rokmen 1/2'' body lift and add a BD 1''MML. Also gonna drop down to the 2'' BDS rear coils to help the driveline angles some. Will this combo allow me to get rid of the transfer-case drop? Also with your lo-pro mount, I'm thinking that the original high-clearance skid would work without an sye/cv ds. Am I correct in thinking this?

The LOPRO mount and the no body lift skid will save you over 1" of ground clearance from stock, but it will keep the transfer case within 1/2" of stock height.

It's likely you may be able to ditch the transfer case drop with the 2" springs and mml, but it may depend on how heavy your jeep is in the rear end.

I don't actually make an extra clearance skid for the early model TJ. It's either no body lift (1" deep) or ultra high clearance (2" deep).

Thanks,
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Unread 02-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #975
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Oh ok. My rear end isnt that heavy. aluminum trail corner guards and stock bumper. I dont do a lot of rocks just mud and nice trails. Im thinking the no-body lift skid might just be what I need even though i'll have a 1/2in body lift. With the MML and Lo-Pro Mount i'm sure ill be fine with the no-body lift skid. Why not have all 3 models for us early TJs? I have an AX-15 too if that matters.
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