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Unread 11-24-2012, 08:10 PM   #886
RnEmOvr
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Where is the truly flat skid?



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Unread 11-27-2012, 06:12 PM   #887
rbkelley89
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Rnmover.
Did u stretch ur wheelbase to get a good angle drivetrain
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2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 07:07 AM   #888
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No I did a MML, SYE, 8.8 so I set it all up for that skid all at same time. Haven't had any issues including a 700+ mile drive from Oh to GA
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Unread 11-29-2012, 07:43 AM   #889
TroubleNEO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolesr View Post
Ok. (Glad I didn't pay for that!). So I guess this means I likely need the SYE/BL/ML?

Was hoping with the lift and extensive axle / shaft conversion this had been done. Guess not!
I'm going to go with they charged to shorten the shafts. At least on the rear I can see a weld that isn't there from the factory. So yeah, SYE/CV shaft in the rear.

I understand you don't want to do a TT just yet, but consider that you’ll be hard pressed to find a replacement skid that doesn’t give you some kind of extra clearance. The only one I would ever buy if I was dead set on not doing a BL/MML is the UCF one.

If you want to wheel the thing, I would say go with a TT skid right off the bat. You’re going to spend the same for a non-TT skid as you will a TT skid. You can get a BL/MML combo for well under $200 if you shop around. Call Nick from Kolak, he hooked me up with a deal good enough that I don’t want to post it publicly.
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Unread 11-30-2012, 02:50 AM   #890
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Thanks for the info TroubleNEO. I just finished installing my skid row engine skid plate. It sure makes the factory t-case skid look wimpy and low....gotta start saving...
img_3964.jpg  

Last edited by bolesr; 11-30-2012 at 02:55 AM.. Reason: pic size
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Unread 12-02-2012, 11:12 AM   #891
rbkelley89
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Help. I have installed 1" bd mml jeep came with 2"bl and. And a 4" rc lift and I got the jb ss sye and novak shifter cable. Currie upper adjustable arms that are extended to their limit and just picked up re lower adjustable ca locally that still need to be put on. I got a flat belly skid from Barnes on pb forum. Skids bolted directly to it right now but want to crissmember it. I got this because it was cheap and simple and I wanted to go comletly flat I knew it would be a little more work but it has taken longer than it should have. I talked to a local drive shaft guy high angle driveline and he said angles no more than 18 degrees. Picked up an angle finder and I have about 22 degree angle. So It needs more work to get this thing on there. Here are my options since i have a 4" lift going to 3" springs will help. Or I can throw the tc drop back under the flat skid to get around a 1" drop that was on the stick skid before or for more work and have it sit till summer time ditch the d35 and get a different rear axle and stretch it back a few inches. So what sounds like my best bet. It sucks because I really want to get this thing rolling but id hate to buy ds twice If I do end up getting an 8.8 or 14 bolt.
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2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 11:25 AM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbkelley89 View Post
Help. I have installed 1" bd mml jeep came with 2"bl and. And a 4" rc lift and I got the jb ss sye and novak shifter cable. Currie upper adjustable arms that are extended to their limit and just picked up re lower adjustable ca locally that still need to be put on. I got a flat belly skid from Barnes on pb forum. Skids bolted directly to it right now but want to crissmember it. I got this because it was cheap and simple and I wanted to go comletly flat I knew it would be a little more work but it has taken longer than it should have. I talked to a local drive shaft guy high angle driveline and he said angles no more than 18 degrees. Picked up an angle finder and I have about 22 degree angle. So It needs more work to get this thing on there. Here are my options since i have a 4" lift going to 3" springs will help. Or I can throw the tc drop back under the flat skid to get around a 1" drop that was on the stick skid before or for more work and have it sit till summer time ditch the d35 and get a different rear axle and stretch it back a few inches. So what sounds like my best bet. It sucks because I really want to get this thing rolling but id hate to buy ds twice If I do end up getting an 8.8 or 14 bolt.
I think you're going to have a hard time getting to 18 degrees with 4" of SL and flat belly. I think I'm at a tad under 21 degrees with Currie 4" springs, Savvy UA (which is not completely flat) and an LP third member in my F9. That is with a SSYE. I do have my lowers shortened as much as possible (some try to cheat a little length there), but if I didn't my F9 would likely have interference issues with gas tank skid. Right now my downtravel is limited by other suspension issues so this works right now, although once I fix those issues I am worried about binding at full droop. I had Tom Wood do clearancing on my yokes and CV joint in anticipation of that. If I end up having to I'll put a limit strap in the center over the diff. Hopefully the amount I'd have to limit will be minimal and I'll still have full travel out at the wheels when only one side at droop.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 12:15 PM   #893
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i just talked to someone over at tomwoods and they said it would work with some extra clearance grinding but for how long is the question. so i am going to install my lower adjustable and then measure and cycle the suspension to see how much i can get away with.
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2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #894
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I am at 25* with 4" pro comp springs and my truely flat skid and 8.8
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Unread 12-03-2012, 12:34 PM   #895
rbkelley89
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rnemovr - i saw your skid write up really nice work that what i want with my flat belly. Did u stretch your rear when u put the 8.8 in. Are you Long armed or short i have shorts. how did u get this to work correctly? i have lots of questions on how to get this finished, i run into problems with everything it do. Also did you go tom woods?
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2001 orange tj 2.5L (113,000) 35" Km2 Black rims D lp 30 Front and d 44 rear with ARB 1"BD MML, 1.25" BL, 4" RC Lift, Flat tc Skid, Adj rear ca's (front soon) TW rear DS, Novak shifter cable, JB ss SYE, RE angled rear trackbar, 8,000Lb Mile marker, Custom front and rear (w/swing) bumpers. Homemade CAI. Lots more to come.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #896
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No stretch, short arms, local driveline shop did shaft. When I did my skid I did my 8.8 at same time. I installed skid and SYE then mocked the 8.8 in place to get the angle I needed and then welded brackets in at the angle I needed so when I bolted everything up the control arms had full adjustment. You could do it with stock arms but I suggest fully adjustable. I am using a stock trans mount but I plan on adding a crossmember as funds allow
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Unread 12-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #897
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Rnemovr, don't assume that a crossmember will automatically allow your drivetrain to sit lower. With my flat skid and the UCF mount, I had the t-case sitting as absolutely close to the skid as I could get it. The lowest point was 1/4" off the plate and the skid was flat across bolted directly to the frame. I recently switched to a Savvy crossmember/aluminum skid, and with the crossmember bolted up, my t-case is 3/4" higher....and that's with the crossmember's 1.75" drop in the middle. So my skid/mount setup was a whole 2.5" more efficient than the Savvy setup. I'm not complaining since I love having the separate crossmember and the lightweight skid, but I'm just giving you numbers. This doesn't cause any issues for me since I've got a 1" body lift and 101" wheelbase so the drive shaft angle is still only about 18*.

When I was trying to figure out how to make my own crossmember that wouldn't raise the t-case at all over where it was, I honestly couldn't figure out how. There just wasn't enough room. You've got the potential for a lower drivetrain with the UCF mount and your skid than you do with a crossmember.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 02:24 PM   #898
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Quote:
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Rnemovr, don't assume that a crossmember will automatically allow your drivetrain to sit lower. With my flat skid and the UCF mount, I had the t-case sitting as absolutely close to the skid as I could get it. The lowest point was 1/4" off the plate and the skid was flat across bolted directly to the frame. I recently switched to a Savvy crossmember/aluminum skid, and with the crossmember bolted up, my t-case is 3/4" higher....and that's with the crossmember's 1.75" drop in the middle. So my skid/mount setup was a whole 2.5" more efficient than the Savvy setup. I'm not complaining since I love having the separate crossmember and the lightweight skid, but I'm just giving you numbers. This doesn't cause any issues for me since I've got a 1" body lift and 101" wheelbase so the drive shaft angle is still only about 18*.

When I was trying to figure out how to make my own crossmember that wouldn't raise the t-case at all over where it was, I honestly couldn't figure out how. There just wasn't enough room. You've got the potential for a lower drivetrain with the UCF mount and your skid than you do with a crossmember.
I am not doing it to lower the trans more. I am doing it so I do not have bolts going thru the skid.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 02:35 PM   #899
Moabrubi
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Finally getting around to checking if the driveshaft binds, I've jacked the jeep up by the gas tank skid until the load was off the axles. No binding, it rotates nice and smooth, but it sure does look steep!

I have the lowest profile UCF (Ultra clearance, I believe it's called? 1" lower than the frame) With the lowepro trans mount, 1.25" body lift, 4" Currie springs and Tom Wood driveshaft. I was expecting to get some binding, but none to be had!

Haven't wheeled with the 4" springs yet, was doing a quick test before the first trip of the fall now that the heat is gone!
Does that driveshaft have 1310s? When I called woods he recommended 1310's so it wouldn't bind. I was looking at putting that exact suspension and tuck setup you have there. What's the angle of that thing at full droop?

Would you also happen to know what it measured? I'm trying to get a general idea of what I'm doing before I build this thing.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 02:49 PM   #900
rbkelley89
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just took measurements to order rear drive shaft. 22" does this sound good. took measurements from flange to flange at 9' o'clock position
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