So you want a Tummy Tuck... - Page 51 - JeepForum.com

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post #751 of 1106 Old 06-13-2012, 08:28 AM
geiman
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Shouldn't be any problem installing the Novak shifter before the TT; it's what I ended up doing to save time with the UA.

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post #752 of 1106 Old 06-14-2012, 01:20 PM
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On my local forum a few months back a member was asking about buy an aluminum skid and everyone said stay away from it. They said an aluminum skid is like Velcro on rocks and it won’t slide it will hang you up. Is there that big a different between aluminum and steel for a skid plate?
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post #753 of 1106 Old 06-14-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by midnight_f150 View Post
On my local forum a few months back a member was asking about buy an aluminum skid and everyone said stay away from it. They said an aluminum skid is like Velcro on rocks and it won’t slide it will hang you up. Is there that big a different between aluminum and steel for a skid plate?
Look around here a bit and you'll see that isn't the case. I was on my aluminum belly skid a good bit this weekend, and I was able to slide off of it each time with a little work instead of just being high centered. If I had been on my not-flat stock steel skid, I would have been stuck.

I've yet to be in a situation where I couldn't slide across my aluminum skids. And considering that the guys who pretty much started the aluminum fad do nothing but play in the rocks, I'd say it works just fine when the proper type is used.
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post #754 of 1106 Old 06-14-2012, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by midnight_f150 View Post
On my local forum a few months back a member was asking about buy an aluminum skid and everyone said stay away from it. They said an aluminum skid is like Velcro on rocks and it won’t slide it will hang you up. Is there that big a different between aluminum and steel for a skid plate?
THINK about this.....

Do you really think someone like Blaine, who exclusively plays in some of the gnarliest rocks in the world, would choose aluminum over steel if it provided any real disadvantage over steel? The alloy used in the skid will not gouge anymore than a comparable steel skid when put in the same scenario.

OlllllllO

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post #755 of 1106 Old 06-14-2012, 03:00 PM
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I sprayed mine down with Pam.. nothing sticks to it now, and it always smells like breakfast!

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post #756 of 1106 Old 06-14-2012, 05:25 PM
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Put the MTRs on, mysterious coincidental DW is gone. I have something smacking the tunnel when i accelerate. Pretty sure its my.cobbled up transfer case linkage. Just ordered cable shifter from Gerald. Hope it gets here quick wanna get it together on monday. I also need to check the transmission vent tube. Think i might of pinched that, dont know what it is but something else is rattling under there near the transmission Having exhaust tweaked on tuesday.

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post #757 of 1106 Old 06-20-2012, 07:30 AM
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almost there....
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post #758 of 1106 Old 06-20-2012, 07:44 AM
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almost there....
nice work. I like it


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post #759 of 1106 Old 06-22-2012, 11:45 AM
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Continuing saga of novice tummy tuck install:
I put a Novak on yesterdY and took transmount off the cut an inch out of cat support, dropping it away from the body. Still have that metal to metal scratching when i hit a bump. Tracked it down to the top of the trans where it exits the tunnel to engine compartment. Looking at getting lopro mount or taking 1/4 inch spacers out from under mml. I dont know if i need the spacers but they came with mml so i stuck them on there. Tried to call UCF this am and got voicemail again.

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post #760 of 1106 Old 06-23-2012, 11:43 PM
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Just as i suspected the transmission has a reinforcing ridge that runs along the top and parallel to the trans. This Area was barely contacting the tub. If u look down the back of the motor it will be just to the passenger side of center. Its hard to see but its there. I took the 1/4 inch spacers out of my mml and lowered the engine. I then had to do some cutting on the bottom of the fan shroud. It all works fine now.

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post #761 of 1106 Old 06-24-2012, 01:36 AM
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After searching through about 15 random pages here i am at a loss in finding the the results to my question, apologies if im beating a dead horse. Kindly redirect me to a previously written solution if so.

I am currently wheeling on stock suspension right now and will not be doing a lift for at least another year. My question is what would be the neccesities to accomplish a TT while knowing a 3-4" lift is in store in the future? From what i've read a MML, SYE, nor CV shaft is needed at stock hieght. Would the BL and Skid plate be all i need at the moment and then once the lift comes accompanied by a CV and SYE should i go for the MML? Am i missing anything else?
Is it possible? Or should i just wait untill i lift to do a TT?

Sincerely, Clueless in Afghanistan


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post #762 of 1106 Old 06-24-2012, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SandKing View Post
After searching through about 15 random pages here i am at a loss in finding the the results to my question, apologies if im beating a dead horse. Kindly redirect me to a previously written solution if so.

I am currently wheeling on stock suspension right now and will not be doing a lift for at least another year. My question is what would be the neccesities to accomplish a TT while knowing a 3-4" lift is in store in the future? From what i've read a MML, SYE, nor CV shaft is needed at stock hieght. Would the BL and Skid plate be all i need at the moment and then once the lift comes accompanied by a CV and SYE should i go for the MML? Am i missing anything else?
Is it possible? Or should i just wait untill i lift to do a TT?

Sincerely, Clueless in Afghanistan
To tummy tuck with no suspension lift at all I would think that a body lift and motor mount lift would be minimum, and maybe a set of upper or lower adjustable control arms for the rear to adjust the pinion angle.

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post #763 of 1106 Old 06-24-2012, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat View Post
To tummy tuck with no suspension lift at all I would think that a body lift and motor mount lift would be minimum, and maybe a set of upper or lower adjustable control arms for the rear to adjust the pinion angle.
Appreciate the response but i am still very new to jeeps and follow that answer with another question...
Are there adjustable control arms that could be used while stock and lifted? Or am i going to have to replace those once i lift with longer control arms?


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post #764 of 1106 Old 06-24-2012, 01:14 PM
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Appreciate the response but i am still very new to jeeps and follow that answer with another question...
Are there adjustable control arms that could be used while stock and lifted? Or am i going to have to replace those once i lift with longer control arms?
That's a hard question that I'm not sure I can answer correcty, but I'll try taking a stab at it, and if I'm wrong hopefully someone else will jump in and correct me.

Just looking at it from the pinion angle side and needing to make a slight correction for the 3" of lift the transfercase output shaft will see, minus the little bit of downward angle that you'll gain back from the MML, I would guestimate the pinion to be aabout 8 degrees off of where it should be. If you got adjustable uppers they would need to be able to become shorter than stock to rotate the pinion downwards since you don't plan on running a SYE/CV driveshaft right away. I'm not sure if there are any adjustable control arms that allow you to go shorter than stock though. If you go with adjustable lowers, you should be OK because you would be adjusting them to be longer than stock to drop the pinion angle.

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post #765 of 1106 Old 06-24-2012, 07:49 PM
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interesting, im starting to understand now but i have the same question along a different road. what if i went with the sye and cv, would i need a long cv after i lift?


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