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post #721 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 06:15 PM
Knuckelhead
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Is a SS sye mandatory for all tummy tucks?
Nope...

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post #722 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 06:19 PM
clg82
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Nope...
which ones is it required for then?
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post #723 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 07:04 PM
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which ones is it required for then?
I don't know, mine doesn't require one...
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post #724 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
I don't know, mine doesn't require one...
which one are you currently running?
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post #725 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
Is a SS sye mandatory for all tummy tucks?
You're asking the wrong question. The necessity is a function of droop, drive shaft length, and static drive shaft angle. Simply put, if your CV binds at or before full droop, you've got the potential for issues. Whenever you tuck the drivetrain, a top goal needs to be maximum clearance gain with minimal vertical drivetrain change in order to keep the drive shaft as shallow as possible. This is a scenario of logic, not one of "which tummy tuck do you have."

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post #726 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
You're asking the wrong question. The necessity is a function of droop, drive shaft length, and static drive shaft angle. Simply put, if your CV binds at or before full droop, you've got the potential for issues. Whenever you tuck the drivetrain, a top goal needs to be maximum clearance gain with minimal vertical drivetrain change in order to keep the drive shaft as shallow as possible. This is a scenario of logic, not one of "which tummy tuck do you have."
so when I do my TT, I need to buy a standard SYE, with CV driveshaft...and then if i bind from that setup, I need to turn around and buy another one that works better?
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post #727 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 08:30 PM
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so when I do my TT, I need to buy a standard SYE, with CV driveshaft...and then if i bind from that setup, I need to turn around and buy another one that works better?
Of course not, where at all did you see me say that? You need to determine that before-hand. You're on 4" springs with a SWB TJ. Get the SS housing.

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post #728 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 08:31 PM
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of course not, where at all did you see me say that? You need to determine that before-hand. You're on 4" springs with a swb tj. Get the ss housing.
swb?
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post #729 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 08:34 PM
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Short wheel base. Pretty much stock height or lifted with factory arms. Compared to one with a stretch or lj/unlimited.

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post #730 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 09:26 PM
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which one are you currently running?
tf...
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post #731 of 1106 Old 06-11-2012, 10:23 PM
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Aww jeez, just spent 8 hours trying to get my ucf skid on. First problem was i had to remove the transfer case shift linkage i put on with the lift. I got that off and jacked the skid up and the TC linkage was in a bind. Tried to call ucf but got voicemail and no call back So i pulled it off and welded a tab to the bottom, then drilled a hole lowering the pivot point. This worked out well and the TC shifts like its suppose to. I modded my skid row oil skid and bolted it up to the ucf. Then adjusted rear uppers and lowers. I started with a Ds angle of 18, no vibes. It was now 25. So i adjusted it down to 22 at ds and 20 at pinion. Two degrees difference is what i had read so i thought i would be ok. But now i have vibes and terrrible Dw. I parked it and started crackin beers. BTW I did nothing to the exhaust yet. It is snug. Also the steering feels kinda strange when I turn to the left.

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post #732 of 1106 Old 06-12-2012, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by polo196 View Post
Aww jeez, just spent 8 hours trying to get my ucf skid on. First problem was i had to remove the transfer case shift linkage i put on with the lift. I got that off and jacked the skid up and the TC linkage was in a bind. Tried to call ucf but got voicemail and no call back So i pulled it off and welded a tab to the bottom, then drilled a hole lowering the pivot point. This worked out well and the TC shifts like its suppose to. I modded my skid row oil skid and bolted it up to the ucf. Then adjusted rear uppers and lowers. I started with a Ds angle of 18, no vibes. It was now 25. So i adjusted it down to 22 at ds and 20 at pinion. Two degrees difference is what i had read so i thought i would be ok. But now i have vibes and terrrible Dw. I parked it and started crackin beers. BTW I did nothing to the exhaust yet. It is snug. Also the steering feels kinda strange when I turn to the left.
Make sure that you're actually in 2wd. When I put my TT on I didn't get the shifter lined up right and it showed I was in 2wd when I was actually in 4wd. I had some really bad steering until I figured it out.
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post #733 of 1106 Old 06-12-2012, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polo196 View Post
Aww jeez, just spent 8 hours trying to get my ucf skid on. First problem was i had to remove the transfer case shift linkage i put on with the lift. I got that off and jacked the skid up and the TC linkage was in a bind. Tried to call ucf but got voicemail and no call back So i pulled it off and welded a tab to the bottom, then drilled a hole lowering the pivot point. This worked out well and the TC shifts like its suppose to. I modded my skid row oil skid and bolted it up to the ucf. Then adjusted rear uppers and lowers. I started with a Ds angle of 18, no vibes. It was now 25. So i adjusted it down to 22 at ds and 20 at pinion. Two degrees difference is what i had read so i thought i would be ok. But now i have vibes and terrrible Dw. I parked it and started crackin beers. BTW I did nothing to the exhaust yet. It is snug. Also the steering feels kinda strange when I turn to the left.
Please keep updating your progress. I`m planning on running the same UCF skid and I`m nervous as hell that I`m going to cause more bad than good. I have a 1 1/4 body lift, mml and adjustable Clayton arms. Do I need/want the lo pro tranny mount? I still need to get a rear driveshaft. Was thinking of getting a Tatton shaft. And I guess I`m gonna need a cable shifter. Then I was going to try to use my Warn oil pan skid to work with the UCF skid. Any input is much appreciated. I`m running a 05 Rubicon 6 spd with a 4in suspension lift.

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post #734 of 1106 Old 06-12-2012, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RubiconChris View Post
Please keep updating your progress. I`m planning on running the same UCF skid and I`m nervous as hell that I`m going to cause more bad than good. I have a 1 1/4 body lift, mml and adjustable Clayton arms. Do I need/want the lo pro tranny mount? I still need to get a rear driveshaft. Was thinking of getting a Tatton shaft. And I guess I`m gonna need a cable shifter. Then I was going to try to use my Warn oil pan skid to work with the UCF skid. Any input is much appreciated. I`m running a 05 Rubicon 6 spd with a 4in suspension lift.
Yes, please do keep us updated. I'm going to be putting a set of second hand Jeep Medic skids on here soon and I'd like to avoid making my Jeep drive worse.

I have a Tom Woods rear shaft that's only a few days old, and a cable shifter. I hope I don't get the skids on and immediately have vibration issues if I get the pinion angle dialed in right.

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post #735 of 1106 Old 06-12-2012, 08:13 AM
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You'll only have issues if you don't know how to avoid them. Get under your Jeep, use your eyes and brain, and make the necessary adjustments and/or purchases. You can read this thread all day long but unless you actually understand what's changing when you raise the drivetrain up, you're wasting your time.

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