So you want a Tummy Tuck... - Page 48 - JeepForum.com

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post #706 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 12:58 PM
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Yeah, I realize about the tire size vs. angle thing, but I was just trying to throw out all the mods I'm doing so it might save some time later. I agree that a TT and BL go hand in hand from what I'm seeing so far. I will even have to purchase a TC shifter, but for now my only concern is to NOT have to replace the 4" springs with something like 2 1/2" springs due to the steepness of the drive shaft.

Last night I install the Metal Cloak front fenders, and boy that makes those 33's look small...
If it really does turn out to be too much but you want to keep the lift, don't forget that there are options beyond a standard double cardan driveshaft that can handle more angle. Yes, they do cost more but they exist. For example, look at TW superflex ujoints or BAMF CV joint.


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post #707 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
Yeah, I realize about the tire size vs. angle thing, but I was just trying to throw out all the mods I'm doing so it might save some time later. I agree that a TT and BL go hand in hand from what I'm seeing so far. I will even have to purchase a TC shifter, but for now my only concern is to NOT have to replace the 4" springs with something like 2 1/2" springs due to the steepness of the drive shaft.

Last night I install the Metal Cloak front fenders, and boy that makes those 33's look small...
OK, sounds like you know what your doing then. just trying to cover the basics.

but i guarantee someone here has a 4"SL with a TT that can give you some solid advice. good luck.

PS. post a picture of 4"SL with Metalcloaks and 33s.

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post #708 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
If it really does turn out to be too much but you want to keep the lift, don't forget that there are options beyond a standard double cardan driveshaft that can handle more angle. Yes, they do cost more but they exist. For example, look at TW superflex ujoints or BAMF CV joint.
Gottcha, and thanks. To be honest, I wouldn't mind getting rid of everything R.C. on my TJ. I already ordered the bilsein shocks from Kolack. I'm just doing it a little at a time so the wifey doesn't get too wise!

I'm not sure I even need a TT, but hate the looks of the shovel enough that I will probably do it.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #709 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
I'm not sure I even need a TT,

You're telling me you've never hit the stock skid?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
but hate the looks of the shovel enough that I will probably do it.
Try not to dig around too much. Looking at pictures of flat bellies will make you hate that stock POS skid with a passion.

OlllllllO

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post #710 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post

You're telling me you've never hit the stock skid?

I hate to admit this, but I have not wheeled the Rubicon yet! I've done my share of crawling in my CJ, but just got the Rubicon a few months ago. I do know that the shovel will hit at some of the places I want to go.

Try not to dig around too much. Looking at pictures of flat bellies will make you hate that stock POS skid with a passion.

Oh, trust me I already have the bug!
I love the looks of the longarm with a TT also, but I really need to be realistic at least for the short term. I'm ready to wheel, tired of it sitting in the shop all lonely. Hopefully after this weekend I'll have the armor installed.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #711 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 01:43 PM
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I ordered my UCF skid, which shipped last Thursday, 3 day UPS. The wagon train it is coming on must of got held up somewhere in Texas. Know anything about that BioTex

Wow, I'm a member. Thats not the word I'm normally called.
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post #712 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by polo196 View Post
I ordered my UCF skid, which shipped last Thursday, 3 day UPS. The wagon train it is coming on must of got held up somewhere in Texas. Know anything about that BioTex
Maybe the truck fell into the hole my shovel dug??? Frustrating isn't it? Where I live there is no such thing as next day. If you pay for next day, it still comes two or even three days. I just learn to live with it.

Keep us posted on the install though. I'm probably going with UCF also. (if the D.S. angle supports it)

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.

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06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's

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Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #713 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 02:52 PM
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The UCF ultra high clearance TT is doable with a 4" short arm lift, but you will need a 1.25" body lift, a 1" motormount lift, a Novack cable shifter, and you will need a quality CV rear driveshaft.

My newest build:
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post #714 of 1106 Old 06-01-2012, 03:02 PM
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And preferably a super short tail housing.....

Bottom line: Do whatever you can to make the drive shaft as long and as flat as possible.

OlllllllO

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post #715 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 01:37 PM
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I'm using the Nth TT, but it's all new territory as far as how it would all set-up with the TDI. I may need to lift the body at this point, but we'll see how it drives-out. Other than that, it came together well.
Attached Thumbnails
P1010469.JPG   P1010485.JPG   P1010480.JPG   P1010483.JPG  

"Hit em' where they ain't"

Roy D. Chapin Jr.

Last edited by AMCMasterTech; 06-03-2012 at 01:40 PM. Reason: pics upload
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post #716 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMCMasterTech View Post
I'm using the Nth TT, but it's all new territory as far as how it would all set-up with the TDI. I may need to lift the body at this point, but we'll see how it drives-out. Other than that, it came together well.
Is your rear pinion shaft a bit low?...
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post #717 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Is your rear pinion shaft a bit low?...
I'll know when it moves in a couple weeks. I'm not comfortable dialing the uppers out any more as it is now, and I can't get anymore tilt at the engine. If the vibes are unacceptable on test drive, then I'll figures something out.

I suppose I could install a xfer case drop kit on the TT...
Attached Thumbnails
P1010452.JPG   P1010490.JPG  

"Hit em' where they ain't"

Roy D. Chapin Jr.

Last edited by AMCMasterTech; 06-03-2012 at 05:38 PM. Reason: pics added
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post #718 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 06:16 PM
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Your lowers are likely longer than stock and are fixed. That's a problem.

OlllllllO

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post #719 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 06:22 PM
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Get adjustable lower control arms...
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post #720 of 1106 Old 06-03-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
And preferably a super short tail housing.....

Bottom line: Do whatever you can to make the drive shaft as long and as flat as possible.
Is a SS sye mandatory for all tummy tucks?
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