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So you want a Tummy Tuck...

391K views 1K replies 219 participants last post by  SouthernGypsy 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So you want a Tummy Tuck

I am aware there is a thread out there similar to this in the fact that it list some of the facts about several skids on the market, but this one is complete and it just for setting up a tummy tuck. This thread will be devoted to the TJ, as this is the TJ Technical Forum and that is what most have on here. LJ's are a bit different when it comes to driveshaft requirements, but most principles still apply.

Everyone thinks they need a tummy tuck these days. They are very useful off road and even make a TJ look better because you are no longer seeing the ugly shovel. A tummy tuck takes more than just several hundred bucks to buy one, there are other things that have to be dealt with. Most decide they don't need one when they figure out how much it will cost. The stock skid not the stoutest, but will hold up to mild wheeling, and comes in at 41.5 lbs.

Depending on the Jeep you have and which route you intend on going you might need one or more of these for your tummy tuck:

1" Body Lift- All depends on how much hammering (or 'modification') you want to do on the transmission tunnel. There are various routes to go with body lifts which include JKS ($135), Daystar, Performance Accessories, Currie, etc. It seems like everyone is scared to do one of these[, whether it be due to looks or difficulty of installation.] I have seen at least 30 posts asking if they can get away with doing such and such skid without one. A lot of people that are concerned with performance think that every Jeep should have came with one from the factory. The 1" body lift is hardly noticeable and will allow other mods like a high clearance gas tank skid. They also help lift the body without changing the COG very much, reducing the amount of bumpstop you need to clear a given tire size.

Motor Mount Lift (MML)- Is needed when doing any high clearance t-case skid on a Jeep that has a suspension lift of 2" or more. Stockers can usually get away with out it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. The reason this needs to be done is when you are stuffing your tranny and tcase farther up you want to tilt the output shaft of the tcase down to help with the geometry you are messing with. By bringing the front of the engine up, you will be able to tilt the output shaft of the tcase down. There are various ways to lift your motor which include JKS(spacers-$60), Brown Dog(full replacement-$84), and M.O.R.E(full replacement-$139). If you choose new motor mounts instead of the spacers, get the rubber bushing versions to reduce engine vibrations. Poly bushings **can** transmit more engine vibrations, but they greatly reduce engine movement and will not degrade as fast as rubber. Rubber's lifespan is usually a few decades...so its your choice.

Double Cardan Driveshaft- Is needed when doing any skid on a Jeep that has been lifted 1.5- 2" or more via its suspension. Stockers can usually get away without it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. Will be needed, Rubicon or not. There are a few out there (Currie, Teraflex, ect, but only one that I would go with- Tom Woods which run around $315 (Quadratec).

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE)- Is needed when doing any skid on a Jeep that has been lifted 1.5-2" or more via its suspension. Stockers can usually get away without it, but if you are doing a tummy tuck chances are you aren't keeping the stock suspension height. If you have a Rubicon, you will not need one of these. Many people say that the Rubicon already has an SYE, but that is incorrect. It would have to have a slip yoke in the first place to elimininate it - Rubicons have fixed flange rear outputs. There are several good kits on the market such as Advance Adapters ($270 Quadratec), JB Conversions($300-$400), Rubicon Express ($330)

Rear upper adjustable control arms- Will be needed to rotate your pinion upward. There will be some fine tuning to eliminate driveshaft vibrations. Rokmen and Currie are the only ones I would consider when dropping money on them as of right now. Rokmen-$249. Currie- ($229)

More info on SYE/CV shafts & pinion angle: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/what-cv-shaft-why-do-i-want-one-854790/

CV trackbar bracket-This angled bracket will be needed for your trackbar when rotating the pinion. With out this bracket your stock or adjustable trackbar will bind. Rubicon Express-$70

Rear lower shock mount extenders- When rotating your pinion up, you will find that the can of your shock (if you have piston down, you may not have this problem) will rub the axle. Some extensions like those from Currie-$30 will get the job done. If you're looking for maximum flex, this is a good time to consider shock mount relocation to use long travel shocks - read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/low-lift-long-shocks-diy-shock-shifters-whats-advantage-852221/

Spring perch modications- Will sometimes have to be done, but I personally have not seen a Jeep that has absolutely needed it. Rotating the pinion will cause the spring sit a bit different- resulting in the spring trying to arc...meaning the bumpstops will no longer align. This mod is not absolutely necessary with smaller lift heights, and mainly helps suspension geometry on taller lifts.
Read Humbolt's write up: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/outboarding-rear-shocks-upper-spring-bucket-relocation-929056/
Also see this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/rear-spring-relocator-kit-856163/

Transfer case bracket- Anyone that knows transfer case brackets know that Novak ($150) is in the top of the game. There are others out there like the one from Advance Adapters or Skyjacker that are cheaper alternatives, but just doesn't work like the Novak. The stock shift lever can often be used when a TT is install in conjunction with a MML & BL, since these keep the drivetrain and accessory angles as close to stock as possible.

Skids

Kilby- I really haven't seen many people run this skid, but looks to be well made. Skid is made from 3/16" bare steel (you will need to paint or powdercoat it). Skid can be done without a body lift. Incorporates Rubicon locker pump mount. Clearance gains?
Weight- 38lbs
Price- $340

AEV- I haven't seen one complaint with this skid. Skid is made from 1/4'' gusseted steel and 2.75" more clearance is possible with this skid, but where the tcase sits it has less clearance. Uses a super low-profile tranny mount. Skid comes with flat bolts that cannot hang up on rocks and comes powdercoated. Skid can be done without a body lift, but 42RLE auto owners might need to 'modify' the firewall/trans tunnel. Incorporates Rubicon locker pump mount.
Weight- ?
Price- $529

Rokmen- Beautiful skid, best tig welding I've seen for mass production Skid is made from 1/4" laser cut bare steel (you paint it) that is CNC formed. Gains of 2.25" will be seen. Uses stock tranny mount. Body lift is suggested. I have seen the back of this skid bend from mild wheeling, but this skid provides one of the best all around deals.
Weight-?
Price- $344. +$20 for Rubicon locker pump mount.

Clayton- This skid uses the 2 piece design. I haven't seen many people use this skid. It might have something to do with it only advertising .5" gain for 97-02 and 1" gain for 03-06 Wranglers. Uses 3/16" steel for the cradle and 1/4" for the skid plate. Comes with a finish, but not specific. Works with their long arm set up if you ever decide to go that route.

Price- $475
Weight- ?

Skyjacker- Zinc coated skid made from 3/16" steel with gusseted corners. Comes with shifter bracket. Gain in clearance is not specified. Only made for 97-02 Wranglers. Body lift required
Price- $410 (Quadratec)
Weight-?

Teraflex- Up to 2 3/8" gain. Made from 3/16" steel. Body lift recommended for Rubicon. Comes with finish, but not specific. Comes with a 5/8" MML.
Price- $450 + Rubicon compressor mount for Rubicons
Weight- 79 lbs

Under Cover Fabworks- Made for 97-06 Wranglers, the skid is fabricated from 3/16" thick carbon steel plate (with optional upgrade to 1/4" plate). The parts were designed in 3D CAD software and laser cut then bent on a CNC press brake. The UCF Transfer Case Skid Plate is reinforced in the middle of the skid from one side to the other with a stiffening channel/transmission mount. The front and rear edges are ramped to increase strength and aid in sliding over obstacles. Clearance gains of about 2" over the factory skid plate will be seen. The total height of this skid is about 2". Skid comes bare and does not include hardware.
Price- $169 for 3/16 and $229 for 1/4"
Weight- 60lbs (Im guessing for the 1/4")
New:
Under Cover Fabworks has released a skid that has the exact characteristics of the steel skids they produce, except they will be offered in 304 Stainless and 6061-T6 Aluminum.
Price- $329: 1/4" Aluminum
Weight-26 lbs

33 Engineering- As far as I know they are out of business, if you can still find one it is the 1 of only skid made that can be dropped without supporting the tranny. It uses a crossmember and a skid that is bolted to it. 2.75" of added clearance are said to be gained from the skid. that was ordered bare or powdered. 1" body lift required.

Never buy anything directly from these guys or anything that will be drop shipped from them. Buy from people that have the skid in stock or do not buy at all.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f176/offroadtoystore-33-engineering-kaput-so-my-dough-811839/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f176/dont-buy-anything-offroadtoystore-com-809307/index2.html
Offroad Toy Store Reviews

Price-?
Weight-?

Jeepmedic-. Although no longer in business, you may be able to find one used. Skid is made from 1/4" gusseted steel with quality powdercoating. Gains of 2.25" will be seen from this beefy skid. Reuses stock trans mount and includes Rubicon locker pump mount. This was regarded as the best skid on the market at the time JeepMedic closed.

Price - ~$200-400 used in good condition
Weight-?

Goferit- Im not sure if these guys are still around. There isn't much info about these skids and not many people run them. Steel thickness? Clearance?
Price?
Weight?

Savvy Offroad- Everyone is talking about this skid. Will be made from aluminum and there has been word that it will be a completely flat skid. This not only will have the highest clearance, it will have a chance (with the UCF skid) to be the lightest of any skid listed. Savvy has some competitive pricing so I like most people I can wait to see this thing. You will most defiantly have to run a body lift if this skid is flat or do some serious modding to the tub.
Clearance gain-?
Price-?
Weight-?

*Exhaust mod- For every skid listed you will likely have to mod your exhaust so it will not contact the skid and or the lower control arm. Some people can get this done by themselves while others need to go to an exhaust shop. Going to an exhaust shop usually isn't too expensive for this fairly simple mod.

*BL or No-Some skids say body lift required or recommended, but can be done with out with enough hammering on the tranny tunnel as stated in the beginning. While most skids can be done without a body lift, you are tucking the transfer case closer to the body. There will be more noise as well as more heat coming from the exhaust as well as the tcase transferred to the floor board. Keep in mind - with a tummy tuck you are lifting the entire drivetrain up 2" or more - meaning you're changing the output shaft angle and you need to make room for the relocated components. The easiest way to do this is a 1" MML + BL.

*Prices are from the manufacturer unless stated otherwise

Do the math on the products you need for your specific Jeep, can you afford a Tummy Tuck?? Do you play in the rocks enough to justify one? If there are any errors or anything that needs to be added, let me know. Thanks. Thank you Unlimited04 for your help.
 
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#780 ·
So many of you have asked for a modular Under Armor kit so the entry point would be a lot less. Well, here it is. These are spy photos. No pricing or availability yet, should be 3-4 weeks before I can get pricing but it will be very competitive. SO DON'T ASK YET!

We will now be selling them by kits.

1. Transmission Cross Member - Allows Jeep to be driven with the skids off
2. Aluminum Transfer Case Center Skid with steel cross brace
3. Transmission and Engine aluminum Skid with steel front brace



 
#781 ·
I had a few questions on a Tummy Tuck I’ve been wanting to do for a while now. I've got most of the bases covered, already have a rear CV shaft etc.

I obtained one of the old Jeep Medic skids locally from a friend and cleaned it up and painted it. It’s been sitting for a while now because I wanted to do it as part of some suspension modifications. Now that I’m getting very close to that point, I was wondering what exactly is involved with putting a high clearance skid on without doing a BL/MML. I have the body and motor mount lift sitting here, I would just like to put the skid on without installing them if possible.

I know that you may have to possibly clearance the tub depending on the skid. The Jeep Medic skid as far as I know isn’t necessarily as high clearance as the highest UCF, but it is still far higher than the factory skid. I don’t have a problem with clearancing the tub since you most likely will never see where it has been clearanced. But, I was wondering are we talking a few dimples here and there, or beating the tub to death with a hammer in quite a ways?

Another concern I have, is that my rocker guards sandwich between the body mounts, and with the way the JKS body lift installs I’m thinking it might move my rocker guards and require me to re-drill the mounting holes on the side of the tub.

It would be great to hear from someone who installed a Jeep Medic skid or has one just to get an idea of how high it really stuffs the transfer case up there. From my understand I’ll need at least a quarter of an inch between any transfer case surface and the tub.
 
#783 ·
I had a few questions on a Tummy Tuck I've been wanting to do for a while now. I've got most of the bases covered, already have a rear CV shaft etc.

I obtained one of the old Jeep Medic skids locally from a friend and cleaned it up and painted it. It's been sitting for a while now because I wanted to do it as part of some suspension modifications. Now that I'm getting very close to that point, I was wondering what exactly is involved with putting a high clearance skid on without doing a BL/MML. I have the body and motor mount lift sitting here, I would just like to put the skid on without installing them if possible.

I know that you may have to possibly clearance the tub depending on the skid. The Jeep Medic skid as far as I know isn't necessarily as high clearance as the highest UCF, but it is still far higher than the factory skid. I don't have a problem with clearancing the tub since you most likely will never see where it has been clearanced. But, I was wondering are we talking a few dimples here and there, or beating the tub to death with a hammer in quite a ways?

Another concern I have, is that my rocker guards sandwich between the body mounts, and with the way the JKS body lift installs I'm thinking it might move my rocker guards and require me to re-drill the mounting holes on the side of the tub.

It would be great to hear from someone who installed a Jeep Medic skid or has one just to get an idea of how high it really stuffs the transfer case up there. From my understand I'll need at least a quarter of an inch between any transfer case surface and the tub.
I haven't had any experience with Jeep Medic skids, but if you do some measuring you might be able to get a ruff idea of where your transfer case will end up at under the jeep.

I have an AEV skid, which does not need a body lift to install. A big part of the reason why a body lift is not needed is the low profile transmission mount.

AEV and UCF both have low profile mounts, it basically raises the skid without having to raise the transmission/transfer case as much as it would with the factory mount.

I'm sure either would work, you just might have to modify the skid plate, or maybe it will just work.

As far as modifying the tub, it's different with every skid and every transmission, usually it's just a little bit. AEV ships there skids with a piece of pipe cut in half so you can place it between the transmission and tub and jack the transmission up into the tub until it dimples the tub. I did not have to do this with a 32rh 3 speed auto trans. My cat did come in contact with the skid, they had 2 models, a round one and an oval one, I ended up getting rid of my 3rd cat, some people replaced there's with the more oval model.

Hope that points you in the right direction.
 
#784 ·
You mean the actual weld on mounts that move the entire body mount up on the frame? Crap. So there is not normal puck style body lift out there that would work with my rocker guards? Maybe I could put them on top of the lift pucks? Man, that's kind of disheartening news, I wasn't looking to get into that much work.
 
#787 ·
WKdeuce said:
Yeah, no vibes, for now.

14" at the belly (no lift & 32" tires). almost 3" higher & over 20lbs. less than the stock skid.
only other thing was modifying the 4x4 shifter cause it was a little wacked.
What all did you do to make that happen?
 
#789 ·
2.5L, 5 speed.
1" brown dog mounts, 1.5" body lift, UCF ultra high clearance skid
Stock suspension (springs, shocks, & all 8 arms), no lift, no SYE.
The 4WD shifter moved in relation to the bracket it sits in, so the 'catch' where it goes into 4LO isn't in the right spot. 4" cutoff wheel until it worked right.
 
#790 ·
man thats awesome, i cant afford a lift right now, and don't really need one for my current wheeling i do, but getting everything up and armored and flat would be awesome. You have inspired me to go this route and then when the time comes for lift, i'll be ahead and tucked. Thank you for your info and help :highfive:

i understand that every Jeep is different, and if i do receive vibes then SYE, Shaft, and rear adj. upper CA's will be a must. Fingers crossed though haha.
 
#794 ·
So recently I installed a UCF ultra hi t-case skid and need to address some issues. My shock are dam near the coil buckets so should I notch the bucket or relocate shock location? And my rear trac bar is bound because of the rear upper control arms being adjusted for the proper pinion angle. So can I modify my drop down bracket I have by heating and bending it? I`m kind of tapped out after all the upgrades so not looking to spend alot right now. Thanks
 
#795 ·
RubiconChris said:
So recently I installed a UCF ultra hi t-case skid and need to address some issues. My shock are dam near the coil buckets so should I notch the bucket or relocate shock location? And my rear trac bar is bound because of the rear upper control arms being adjusted for the proper pinion angle. So can I modify my drop down bracket I have by heating and bending it? I`m kind of tapped out after all the upgrades so not looking to spend alot right now. Thanks
Grind down the back of spring buckets. Might be able to modify bracket but a new angled one shouldn't be that expensive.
 
#798 ·
Thanks guys, I`m gonna trim the buckets and I ordered a JKS angled trac bar bracket from Quadratec for $50.
My Clayton lower control arms are as short as posible and my uppers are out as far as they can be safely. I`m hope`n I dont get a driveline vibration. I`m running a 17 inch cv Tatton shaft. But the breakover angle with 35`s and that UCF ultra hi clearance skid is amazing!
 
#803 ·
I`m getting close to finished with my tummy tuck. I need to make a limiting strap and I guess bend my gear shifter. Its really close to my dash. Any ideas, pics or suggestions are appreciated.
 
#804 ·
As for the limit strap, I just threw on a set of 4" springs last weekend, and with my transfer case stuffed up so high, I suspect I'll need a limit strap on the rear pumpking as well. How does one mount a limit strap onto a stock D44 in the center? It's been hot out on the trails, so I've not really had the jeep out much lately, waiting for things to cool down. :)


as for the shifter, I took my gear shifter out, heated it for a few minutes until it started to glow where I wanted the bend, then and bent it back using the bench vice and a piece of pipe for leverage.
 
#814 ·
My buddy took one of those drop t-case adapters you get with a lift and turned it upside down and put a brass pushing in it. Its works as good as stock if not better! I`ll post a pic in a few. And I have no driveline vibes with my 17 inch Tatton shaft.
Took it up to 90mph on the interstate cause my test drive was going that good. Woods test today. I did put a limiting strap on the rear from the top 2 dif bolts to the cross member because the driveshaft binded a little at full droop. We did have to call Matt cause we were to dumb to figure out the Rubi pump mount. He answered the phone as always. The only complaint I got was from the UPS man! lol
And as far as my shifter, after I drove it I left it where it was cause I kinda liked it. So I didnt even bother bending it. Its closer to the dash but its not like my hand hits or anything.
 
#816 ·
OK, here's an off-the-wall question...

Would it be better to do a SYE or just find a used Rubicon transfer case to do a tummy-tuck?

(It's my understanding that the Rubi transfer cases already have the SYE.)
 
#817 ·
OK, here's an off-the-wall question...

Would it be better to do a SYE or just find a used Rubicon transfer case to do a tummy-tuck?

(It's my understanding that the Rubi transfer cases already have the SYE.)
The 241OR has a fixed output shaft, so yes it doesn't need an SYE. It would be nice to have one for the 4:1 low range, but typically they're hard to find, expensive if you do find them, and a bit larger so tucking them up with a TT can be a bit harder. If you can find a good deal on one I'd say go for it, but they're typically not cheap. The only ones I've seen under $1000 are not local and would cost a good bit to ship. Pirate4x4 has some occasionally, might want to keep an eye out over there.

Good luck.
 
#824 ·
Thanks Bio...

Can someone elaborate on the difference between a standard SYE and a SS SYE? Short shaft? Huh?

(It sucks being stupid!)
 
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