...So I got a York... - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
Dangle
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...So I got a York...

So I picked up a york today from a U-Pull-It. how do I test if it works, I know I am supposed to touch the wire to my positive on my battery, but everywhere I read, I am supposed to ground the York, How do i do that??


98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #2 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 04:40 PM
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they ground through their chassis. you can bolt it in the bracket, or just hold a wire up against the chassis or the york and the other end to ground.

'03 Rubicon
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post #3 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
Dangle
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would i have to remove the grime first, or would that not matter...

98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #4 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangle
would i have to remove the grime first, or would that not matter...
Well you need metal to metal contact. Heres what I would do. Take a drill battery (since most of the cars in the junkyards wont have batteries) 14.4v or less and some jumper wires with those aligator clips on them. With the york still in the vehicle attach a jumper wire from the negative of the drill battery to the mounting bracket touch the positive wire from the clutch to the battery postive. You should hear the clutch click.

My bad didn't realize you already have the york. In that case clean up a spot on the york and set it on something metal on your engine. Touch the clutch wire to the battery positive.

2004 Black Rubicon w/ 5 spd

RE 3.5 SuperFlex & Front Trackbar / JKS 1.25" BL & MML / 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x8 AR-23s / Currie Anti-Rock / Jeeperman Bumpers / Rokmen Sliders / York OBA / Harbor Freight 8k Winch
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post #5 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 05:04 PM
allen150
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what's a york?
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post #6 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allen150
what's a york?
AC compressor that works well as a compressor for on board air.
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post #7 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
Dangle
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alright, thanks guys..Ill test it out tomorrow...I hope it works, i dont want to go back and get another one...

98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #8 of 49 Old 05-03-2005, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangle
alright, thanks guys..Ill test it out tomorrow...I hope it works, i dont want to go back and get another one...
You know if it doesn't click it doesn't mean the compressors bad, just the clutch. Depending on your setup you might need to get a new clutch if you need a serptenine one and have a vbelt clutch.

To test the compressor you can just place your finger over one of the ports and see if you get suction or pressure.

2004 Black Rubicon w/ 5 spd

RE 3.5 SuperFlex & Front Trackbar / JKS 1.25" BL & MML / 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x8 AR-23s / Currie Anti-Rock / Jeeperman Bumpers / Rokmen Sliders / York OBA / Harbor Freight 8k Winch
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post #9 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
Dangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner85
You know if it doesn't click it doesn't mean the compressors bad, just the clutch. Depending on your setup you might need to get a new clutch if you need a serptenine one and have a vbelt clutch.

To test the compressor you can just place your finger over one of the ports and see if you get suction or pressure.
I heard new clutches for yorks where expensive, and its easier (and cheaper) to just find one that works??thanks guys

98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #10 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 10:21 AM
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You'll hear a loud clunk if the solenoid is good when you apply power. Connect the battery's negative post to the compressor body and the positive post to the solenoid wire to engage the solenoid which engages the clutch. When it is engaged, spin the pully to make sure you have good suction and pressure from the two ports. If you have a few Yorks to choose from, select the one with the best suction and pressure. I noticed a substantial difference in a few of the ones I tested so I chose the best of the bunch.

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post #11 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
Dangle
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IT WORKS IT WORKS...so it works, which im excited about, but im not sure which model I got, the original tag had been replaced, but ive read there is a way to remove the clutch to find out which one I have...Ive removed the four small bolts behind the pulley, is this correct??Im assuming the bolt right in the middle is next??but i cant figure out how to stop the pulley from spinning when i try and disconnect it...thanks for the help guys...

98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #12 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 11:07 AM
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One thing to keep in mind with your junkyard york. Most likely, you are going to need a new clutch and pulley assembly anyway. Depending what it came out of, it probably has a V-belt pulley on it, and you will need a serpentine pulley.

Www.onboardair.com has all the nitty gritty details you'll need.

-BN

'97 Forest green. ~6" total lift, 8.8, etc. 36" TSL's, winch. You get the drill.
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post #13 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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ok, so im a little worried I might have damaged insides...I can turn the pulley on the front with one of the ports closed on top, but I dont feel any suction or blowing....is there another way to determine this...I dont want to take it back and return it....

98 TjX
4.5 RE SF, 1" body, 1" MML, 35" MTR's,, SYE & Driveshaft, Dana 44 in the rear, 7" wheelbase stretch, multiple skids protecting front to back, Flat Fendered, O.R.O U-Turn, PSC P-Pump, Vanco Hydroboost, Aussie locker in front and some other bullsh#t
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post #14 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangle
IT WORKS IT WORKS...so it works, which im excited about, but im not sure which model I got, the original tag had been replaced, but ive read there is a way to remove the clutch to find out which one I have...Ive removed the four small bolts behind the pulley, is this correct??Im assuming the bolt right in the middle is next??but i cant figure out how to stop the pulley from spinning when i try and disconnect it...thanks for the help guys...
To Get the pulley bolt off, you almost HAVE TO have power going to the clutch so it's engaged. Grab the pulley with a pair of vice grips, and then take a 1/2" wrench to the center bolt. It's frustrating, but it works (only way I could do it.)

You might have to tap on the pulley to get it off as well.

If it looks like Herman Munster's head, you have the right compressor. There should be two markings on the top where the fittings are. One should say V and one shoud say D, or something similar. Basically, vacum and discharge. The other way to tell is to put your finger over one of the holes and use a power drill to turn the pump. If it blows air, it's the discharge,. If it sucks, it's the vacum. This is also a good way to tell if the seals are still good inside.

Also, something I found with mine. Since it's mounted in a horizontal way instead of vertical as it probably was in the donor car, it WILL SPIT OIL. Most likely, it's full of oil at the top and that will cause all sorts of problems for you at first.

First, remove the oil plugs on the side (1/2 again, I think) and let the oil drain from the inside. You want to replace that anyway.


Next, Take the bolts off the top cover very carefully and pry the cover up slowlyl. Don't dent the aluminum or you are screwed.

Get some rags and let the compressor sit upside down overnite to drain all the blow by oil out of the top. After that is done, get some pwper / cork gasket material (NOT RTV, it will blow out!) and make a new top gasket and re-seal everything.

I fought with two compressors before I figured out there was oil in the top that was giving me hell.

-BN

'97 Forest green. ~6" total lift, 8.8, etc. 36" TSL's, winch. You get the drill.
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post #15 of 49 Old 05-04-2005, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangle
ok, so im a little worried I might have damaged insides...I can turn the pulley on the front with one of the ports closed on top, but I dont feel any suction or blowing....is there another way to determine this...I dont want to take it back and return it....

If you are trungin it by hand, you won't feel much. Once you have that pulley off, take the bolt and thread it back into the hole, and use a power drill to turn the pump over quickly. It should make a sucking noise.

-BN

'97 Forest green. ~6" total lift, 8.8, etc. 36" TSL's, winch. You get the drill.
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