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Unread 08-29-2010, 05:40 PM   #1
bmxrules39
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sleeve currie arms to make them long arms?

Ok so an idea popped into my head the other day while looking at my jeep and dreaming about a long arm setup.

I'm thinking I could cut my currie arms and sleeve them with a longer section of DOM tubing and weld the joint to one end and the threaded section to the other end, so I can thread the adjustable end back in, and I'd have long arms.

This would save me a ton of money, and I think it could be done and look really nice you can get DOM tubing with a .25 wall and a 1.25 ID so the original currie arms would fit nice and tight.

Also I'm thinking I would need to weld a nut to the end of the adjustable side so the jam nut has something nice and flat to tighten against

I just can't see why this might be a bad idea, but it seems like kind of a stretch, so I'm asking for some input.

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Unread 08-29-2010, 05:45 PM   #2
bmxrules39
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One more thing; I thought about selling my short arm lower curries, but from what it would cost to get all new joints, brackets, DOM tubing, and the $25 a piece threaded nuts- I really wouldn't make enough to come close to what it would cost
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Unread 08-29-2010, 05:59 PM   #3
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What about picking up some overtime, selling your currie arms and then building it right the first time?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #4
bmxrules39
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i just love how some people race to be the first to make a snide comment on any thread that's posted, if you don't have any input or real reason why this way is a bad idea then why do you feel like you have to post something?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxrules39 View Post
Ok so an idea popped into my head the other day while looking at my jeep and dreaming about a long arm setup.

I'm thinking I could cut my currie arms and sleeve them with a longer section of DOM tubing and weld the joint to one end and the threaded section to the other end, so I can thread the adjustable end back in, and I'd have long arms.

This would save me a ton of money, and I think it could be done and look really nice you can get DOM tubing with a .25 wall and a 1.25 ID so the original currie arms would fit nice and tight.

Also I'm thinking I would need to weld a nut to the end of the adjustable side so the jam nut has something nice and flat to tighten against

I just can't see why this might be a bad idea, but it seems like kind of a stretch, so I'm asking for some input.
Not sure why you want long arms, but the flaw in your theory is that one who is well versed in suspension design would know that the larger 1.25" shanks for use in lower arms are vastly preferred.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:05 PM   #6
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i just love how some people race to be the first to make a snide comment on any thread that's posted, if you don't have any input or real reason why this way is a bad idea then why do you feel like you have to post something?
I just love how some folks race to come up with ****amamie ideas to save a few pennies and can't wait to post it without thinking it through. Does that bother you as well?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:07 PM   #7
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Not a terrible idea. So why do you "dream" of long arms?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:15 PM   #8
Benderff
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It's an internet forum. You wanted input about your lame idea, and I gave you some. If my idea of spending a couple extra dollars and doing it right the first time is so offensive please ignore it.



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i just love how some people race to be the first to make a snide comment on any thread that's posted, if you don't have any input or real reason why this way is a bad idea then why do you feel like you have to post something?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:17 PM   #9
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The thing that really sold me on long arms was when I was doing the golden crack in Moab, my driver front was all the way down in and I was trying to move forward, it felt like something was weird so I really watched that tire. As i moved forward the tire was actually trying to push down into the crack instead of rolling up it, I kept inching forward and it finally popped up over. It wasn't dangerous or intense, but watching it really made me realize that if my arms were on less of an angle it probably would've rolled through a lot smoother. I'm sure this has happened in other situations that I haven't realized as well.

I'm also looking for the better on road ride, and not so much inward movement when I'm flexing
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:22 PM   #10
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The thing that really sold me on long arms was when I was doing the golden crack in Moab, my driver front was all the way down in and I was trying to move forward, it felt like something was weird so I really watched that tire. As i moved forward the tire was actually trying to push down into the crack instead of rolling up it, I kept inching forward and it finally popped up over. It wasn't dangerous or intense, but watching it really made me realize that if my arms were on less of an angle it probably would've rolled through a lot smoother. I'm sure this has happened in other situations that I haven't realized as well.

I'm also looking for the better on road ride, and not so much inward movement when I'm flexing
Maybe you should figure out your shock lengths and run a swaybar?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:23 PM   #11
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Not sure why you want long arms, but the flaw in your theory is that one who is well versed in suspension design would know that the larger 1.25" shanks for use in lower arms are vastly preferred.
blaine you're not worth arguing with, i was actually hoping you'd find this and have something to input. but I'm not sure what a shank is? Is that another word for a johnny joint? Sorry I haven't been at this as long as you I don't know all the lingo and can't see every angle of everything without some help, isn't that why this forum is here?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:29 PM   #12
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Maybe you should figure out your shock lengths and run a swaybar?
you almost make it sound like it would be a bad idea to go long arm, or mid arm or change it at all. I'm sure a sway bar in the golden crack wouldn't be a better alternative than having long arms, and I haven't really found it worth while to fork out the money for a Currie anti rock, while it would be sweet I can't see it solving too many issues.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:37 PM   #13
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blaine you're not worth arguing with, i was actually hoping you'd find this and have something to input. but I'm not sure what a shank is? Is that another word for a johnny joint? Sorry I haven't been at this as long as you I don't know all the lingo and can't see every angle of everything without some help, isn't that why this forum is here?
Alright, let me see if I can help. The problem with your current JJ's is they have a 1" threaded section that screws into the tube and that's called the shank.

If you increase the length of the arm, it's very possible to land on a rock close to the frame side of the arm end and the leverage from the spring pushing down will bend the shank. You need to increase the shank diameter to the larger 1 1/4" versions if you increase the arm length.

Currently you have no issues because the length of the arm is a short enough lever that it's pretty difficult to bend the threaded shanks.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:39 PM   #14
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you almost make it sound like it would be a bad idea to go long arm, or mid arm or change it at all. I'm sure a sway bar in the golden crack wouldn't be a better alternative than having long arms, and I haven't really found it worth while to fork out the money for a Currie anti rock, while it would be sweet I can't see it solving too many issues.
I can see no reason for 99.9% of the TJ's out there to ever run long arms. Long being 36-38" or longer.

I'm a huge fan of 26-28" arms and even then the 1" shanks are not ideal.

I'm sure you don't know that an Anti-rock helping to pick up that tire in the crack would be a bad idea. If you've never wheeled with one, try and limit your assumptions about how much they really do help.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:47 PM   #15
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I can see no reason for 99.9% of the TJ's out there to ever run long arms. Long being 36-38" or longer.

I'm a huge fan of 26-28" arms and even then the 1" shanks are not ideal.

I'm sure you don't know that an Anti-rock helping to pick up that tire in the crack would be a bad idea. If you've never wheeled with one, try and limit your assumptions about how much they really do help.
I think it's more of a- completely had no idea rather than an assumption, but it does make sense now that you bring it to my attention.

So then a shank is the diameter of the threads coming off the joint. Why is it that they are ok to run with a short arm setup? Or do you not like them even then?
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