Skyjacker lift questions? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 06:18 AM
tyvanwie
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The shocks may look new, but if they were on the whole time they're pretty used. Control arms, don't bother. Honesty, I wouldn't even get any of it. You're better off getting a new kit.

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post #17 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 07:14 AM
Ironhead
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^^^ agreed. if you want to use the shocks and springs, ok, but even that is questionable

IMO, the stock control arms are better than the ones in that kit. they offer flex where the fixed ones put too much stress on the mounts
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post #18 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 08:26 AM
McLovin
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I think you would be better off with a budget boost and some quality shocks

I have 4 new zone hydro shocks for sale...PM for a price.
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post #19 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
mnm99
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That was another question. Do I need control arms with a 2.5' lift anyway? I see kits with them and without. Should I also use a track bar bracket too front and rear? I'd like it to be centered. Transfer case drop down bracket?
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post #20 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 08:34 AM
cellis
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Check your sway bar links. I did a stupid thing when I installed my lift. I without realizing the back and front links are different lengths, got them switched around. I ended up with a lean to one side. I got out tape measure and realized my rookie mistake. Only 1" difference but results in a very obvious lean. Just my two cents with my limited experience. May be an easy fix for you if that's the case.
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post #21 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 08:46 AM
jeepbro's
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My 2 cents,
I had that same kit on my jeep when i got it, if you said it has the nitro shocks then the only thing of value in that kit is the springs. The LCA's flex worse than stock because of the poly bushings and since they are fixed and wont twist like stock arms, and after going through 2 sets of bushings i swapped them for stock arms which drive better now. The skyjacker hydro shocks actually ride pretty good, thats what i replaced my shocks with when they went out. And as for t-case drop brackets, you most likely wont need that with only 2" lift, at most youll need just some washers on the t-case skid bolts to slightly lower it.
"

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post #22 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 09:33 AM
McLovin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnm99 View Post
That was another question. Do I need control arms with a 2.5' lift anyway? I see kits with them and without. Should I also use a track bar bracket too front and rear? I'd like it to be centered. Transfer case drop down bracket?
No you don't need the control arms. If you want your axles centered buy adjustable track bars, track bar brackets are just a band aid. With the increased leverage you can actually rip the mount off the frame. Why on earth do you seem so set on buying a kit everyone here and the person your buying it from says it rides like crap?

I have 4 new zone hydro shocks for sale...PM for a price.
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post #23 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 09:41 AM
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Shocks have 25,000 miles on them, springs are rusty, missing the rear track bar bracket... McLovin is right, a budget boost and a good set of shocks are probably a better bet at this point.

Control arms are not necessary at 2.5" and a tcase drop likely is not either.

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post #24 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 09:51 AM
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Just to clear up the "are control arms necessary" thing, using 'lift height' alone as a yes/no decider isn't exactly accurate. What if the OP wants a flat skid? How are the stock arms going to work when higher pinion angles and front caster/pinion angle requirements far exceed them? I actually sit at a hair under 2" if you look at 'lift over stock' and no longer have stock control arms or mounts.

For the OP, yes stock arms are probably fine....for now, until he gets tired of bashing the stock t-case skid and living with the stock t-case output.

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post #25 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
mnm99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLovin View Post
No you don't need the control arms. If you want your axles centered buy adjustable track bars, track bar brackets are just a band aid. With the increased leverage you can actually rip the mount off the frame. Why on earth do you seem so set on buying a kit everyone here and the person your buying it from says it rides like crap?
Im not set on anything! Im doing my reasearch... im looking at kits for around $800 and all that's missing in this one is around $150 worth of stuff. Im asking to see what's needed and what's not. Some will say. The ride sucks and some may like it.. eyeryone has an opinion. For instance your the first person that said I could rip the bracket off the rear using a drop down bracket. That's pretty dangerous. How many time has anyone heard of this?. The whole reason this started was. Because its leaning inch on the pass side.. people say when I sit in it measure it then.....what happens when I have a passenger .I have a bb on hand.
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post #26 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 10:00 AM
tyvanwie
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You're exactly right about the lean. That's one of the stupidest things I have ever heard. The coils don't have a left and right, so why would the drivers side sit higher? It shouldn't. It should sit level.

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post #27 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 10:10 AM
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you could swap front coils to see if the lean follows or if the problem is elsewhere
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post #28 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
mnm99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
you could swap front coils to see if the lean follows or if the problem is elsewhere
I could do that or the backs. If I'm going to troubleshoot anything I'd like to go up also.
Another reason I was asking so many questions was because I have a BB lift that came with the truck still in the box. If I could sell it for $100 the kit my friend is selling would only cost $100 plus whatever else I would need. Thats a pretty big savings that could go toward tires. If you are all saying it will rattle my teeth and 25K is pretty much done with wear and tear then I will look at something else. As IMPED said about the "OP"...I like things done right. I can weld and fabricated a complete twin turbo show quality system on my 68 Camaro Convertible. If is stuff I can learn I will ask. Thank you so far by the way.
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post #29 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnm99 View Post
I could do that or the backs. If I'm going to troubleshoot anything I'd like to go up also.
Another reason I was asking so many questions was because I have a BB lift that came with the truck still in the box. If I could sell it for $100 the kit my friend is selling would only cost $100 plus whatever else I would need. Thats a pretty big savings that could go toward tires. If you are all saying it will rattle my teeth and 25K is pretty much done with wear and tear then I will look at something else. As IMPED said about the "OP"...I like things done right. I can weld and fabricated a complete twin turbo show quality system on my 68 Camaro Convertible. If is stuff I can learn I will ask. Thank you so far by the way.
you are guessing that it is the springs causing your rig to lean, it may be, or it may be something else. it only takes an hour to swap the springs. you may find that they have nothing to do with it and putting bigger ones on wont solve the issue
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post #30 of 39 Old 05-14-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyvanwie View Post
You're exactly right about the lean. That's one of the stupidest things I have ever heard. The coils don't have a left and right, so why would the drivers side sit higher? It shouldn't. It should sit level.

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I bought a new RC 3.25" kit for one of my Jeeps.It sat 1.5" lower on the passenger side front.Swapped coils side to side,no difference.I added a 1.5" spacer on the low side and ..................NO DIFFERENCE! I was pissed after taking it apart several times.I called RC and Jeffery sent me some new 4" coils free and all problems were solved.

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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Springs have one job and one job only and it isn't to affect, determine, or create ride quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
$1K for pinion seal and axle seals? Do you wear a ski mask while you work?
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