Skidplate Reattachment Opinions Please - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
CarmenS
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Skidplate Reattachment Opinions Please

My son and I have owned a 1999 Wrangler Sport since its birth. It is in great shape however last week I noticed the right side of the skidplate had fallen away from the frame. The frame rusted through. I considered buying a frame repair piece and having it welded in place however the cost was estimated here in Cincinnati at $1000 - $1500. Since I only use the Wrangler around the city as a second car I tried a repair of my own design. Cost was about $30. I am asking for any and all opinions as to the serviceability of the "fix". The photos will show the problem and the repair. I wrapped three 3/8" U-bolts around the frame and fabricated supporting straps. As you can see they are not exactly placed evenly because of the frame and skidplate design but they are evenly tight. It required drilling a three holes in the plate but the whole job now that I know how to do it would take only a couple of hours. Thanks for any comments or replies.

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post #2 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 07:35 AM
NotURMailman
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I wouldn't run like that. You're pulling up on the skid by putting pressure just on three spots of the lip on the edge of the skid. I don't see how that is putting proper clamping force of the skid to the frame. I would be afraid it would either shift or bend that lip and become loose. But, that's just me...


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post #3 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I agree that it would need watching. In the last 5 years I have averaged less than 2000 easy miles per year. I can't see that it's not worth a try and keep an eye on it. At 18 years old now I don't know what other big $$ things are going to come up to bite me. Thanks again.
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post #4 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 09:55 AM
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As something temporary to get around with no long trips or stress, I'd probably live with it. But in no way would I be happy with it for any extended period of time. And I'd be worried about the rest of my frame also.
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post #5 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 12:30 PM
rsurran
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How about a gap filler between the skid plate and the clamp so the clamp is not stressing the lip? Visualize a 2x4 or similar bar of aluminum. That would spread the clamping force evenly and not only on the lip. I would also be worried about the lip bending and the clamps coming loose.

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post #6 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 01:51 PM
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As a quick fix I'd remove the original bolts, drill corresponding holes in the top of the frame and bolt through using appropriate hardware.
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post #7 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
As a quick fix I'd remove the original bolts, drill corresponding holes in the top of the frame and bolt through using appropriate hardware.
With those holes in the frame he's not going to get any real clamping force fit. Even leaving aside the issue of the dead space in the frame (which is why we don't through bolt there generally) there is no faying surface left.
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post #8 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Good idea. Since I could not get the original bolts out perhaps an aluminum strip with holes drilled for the bolt heads. If I see any stress on the lip of the plate I will do that. Thanks.
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post #9 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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"As a quick fix I'd remove the original bolts, drill corresponding holes in the top of the frame and bolt through using appropriate hardware."

I was aware of that fix but could not remove the bolts and did not want to deal with the limited space above the frame I had just enough room for the 3/8" U-bolts. Thanks.
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post #10 of 24 Old 09-21-2017, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmenS View Post
It is in great shape
Based on the photos you've provided, I will have to disagree with your assessment.

Given the estimate you received I would be inclined to ask around to other shops to see if you can get better quotes. Alternatively, you could inquire of any local offroading clubs if there are any members who have the capability and willingness to help repair your frame. Conversely, for the cost of your original estimate you could pick up a welder and fix it yourself. In the long run having access to a welder and the skills to use one will by far be your best investment as I can pretty well guarantee the rest of your frame will also be needing attention sooner rather than later.

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post #11 of 24 Old 09-22-2017, 10:54 PM
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That factory skid, as wimpy as it is, does provide structural integrity to the frame. The U bolts may hold the skid up but I don't think it's doing much for rigidity in a lateral sense, not to mention the torque it sees from the trans mount.

I don't think that's a terrible fix to get it from A to B to get it fixed properly. I'd seriously inspect the rest of the frame to decide if it's worth fixing it there just to have problems later, or buy another clean frame now. They sometimes sell for a steal

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post #12 of 24 Old 09-23-2017, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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"Based on the photos you've provided, I will have to disagree with your assessment."
Mukluk you made me smile! You are right beauty is in the eye of the beholder. About the estimate I think it is probably correct. The ART-131 frame piece is a few hundred, a new skid plate since the bolts are rusted in and probably on the left side as well is another couple of hundred. Then the welding labor (the outside is no problem it is the inside that requires removal of the exhaust system that makes it tough) is the skill needed. At 75 years of age I don't think I'm going to acquire that new skill. Thanks for your input.
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post #13 of 24 Old 09-23-2017, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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"or buy another clean frame now. They sometimes sell for a steal"

Never thought past a fix at the spot, I'll check locally, thanks.
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post #14 of 24 Old 09-23-2017, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeezyBlue View Post
or buy another clean frame now. They sometimes sell for a steal
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmenS View Post
Never thought past a fix at the spot, I'll check locally, thanks.
Check Davey's Jeep
http://www.daveysjeeps.com/index.html

If you do buy a frame from a junkyard or a private seller be sure it's square, straight, and not tweaked, look for rust in and out of the frame tubes, and that all the brackets are there and straight, holes not oval-ed out.
No sense in spending the money to end up with scrap metal or do all that work to have to do it again in 5 to 10 years.

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post #15 of 24 Old 09-23-2017, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
I wouldn't run like that.
x3. I'd only do that so I could get the skid held up enough to pull it onto a flatbed tow truck....

wthe engine torque and trans movement while driving is going to have that frame twisting like crazy and the skid moving all over. I wouldn't be surprised if that low grade hardware breaks in short order.

It would have been better to weld the skid to the frame with a few beads for a short term fix....


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