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Unread 11-23-2014, 05:47 AM   #1
LifeProof
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Setting up pinion angle w/new brackets

So my current state of building has me undergoing axle swaps and a tummy tuck all around the same time.

My rear axle needs brackets on it and I have seen where people set the angle of this pinion prior to leveling out the brackets. However, here stu Olsen pinion angle, it goes about explaining that you need your CV driveshaft angle to find the matching angle of the pinion.

I am waiting to measure yoke to yoke before I order my driveshaft though.

It seems I'm in a predicament. I need a driveshaft to set my pinion angle, but I need my pinion in place to order my driveshaft.

Can anyone shed some light on what I'm not understanding here?

Thank you.

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Unread 11-23-2014, 07:26 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeProof View Post
So my current state of building has me undergoing axle swaps and a tummy tuck all around the same time.

My rear axle needs brackets on it and I have seen where people set the angle of this pinion prior to leveling out the brackets. However, here stu Olsen pinion angle, it goes about explaining that you need your CV driveshaft angle to find the matching angle of the pinion.

I am waiting to measure yoke to yoke before I order my driveshaft though.

It seems I'm in a predicament. I need a driveshaft to set my pinion angle, but I need my pinion in place to order my driveshaft.

Can anyone shed some light on what I'm not understanding here?

Thank you.
Eyeball the pinion to set it pointing straight at the TC output. You'll be close enough.
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Unread 11-23-2014, 09:09 AM   #3
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The eyeball trick is usually pretty close.


If you want to gnat's *** it grab a magnetic angle finder from harbor freight or similar for 2 bucks and use that. I like to set between 1-2* below directly at the tcase output.
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Unread 11-23-2014, 09:40 AM   #4
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Thanks guys.
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Unread 11-23-2014, 09:43 AM   #5
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Your pinion will likely be in the 15-20* range, depending on drive shaft length and how high you tuck the case. I'd split the difference and call it 18* and then setup the brackets. For example, tack the coil buckets in at 0* with the pinion at 18*. Tack, check, and don't full weld until you're 100% happy.
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Unread 11-23-2014, 09:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeProof View Post
So my current state of building has me undergoing axle swaps and a tummy tuck all around the same time.

My rear axle needs brackets on it and I have seen where people set the angle of this pinion prior to leveling out the brackets. However, here stu Olsen pinion angle, it goes about explaining that you need your CV driveshaft angle to find the matching angle of the pinion.

I am waiting to measure yoke to yoke before I order my driveshaft though.

It seems I'm in a predicament. I need a driveshaft to set my pinion angle, but I need my pinion in place to order my driveshaft.

Can anyone shed some light on what I'm not understanding here?

Thank you.
When given a choice to nail it such as when you are setting up brackets, I do it a bit differently. I don't know what my rear pinion angles are, don't care.

If you want it as close as possible to satisfy the same desires I have to not guess at anything, it is very easy to do and when done you will enjoy knowing that you nailed it.

Set your wheelbase, get the t-case up where it is going to live, and then get yourself a mock up driveshaft and it should have the CV at the T-case end because the driveshaft doesn't point directly at the output, it points at a spot slightly rearward that is the result of the CV splitting the angle.

At ride height, bolt it up, adjust the pinion until it is dead on and tack your brackets.

If you don't have your driveshaft, beg, or borrow one or mock one up using a CV and a chunk of tube to extend it. I've even used fronts and just tacked some crap together to get it dialed in before I welded up the brackets.

Put another way, I never put brackets on an axle without a driveshaft that lets me know precisely where the pinion needs to be. I tack them, but only well enough to be able to load the suspension and then I cut and move as needed.
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Unread 11-23-2014, 01:21 PM   #7
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
When given a choice to nail it such as when you are setting up brackets, I do it a bit differently. I don't know what my rear pinion angles are, don't care.

If you want it as close as possible to satisfy the same desires I have to not guess at anything, it is very easy to do and when done you will enjoy knowing that you nailed it.

Set your wheelbase, get the t-case up where it is going to live, and then get yourself a mock up driveshaft and it should have the CV at the T-case end because the driveshaft doesn't point directly at the output, it points at a spot slightly rearward that is the result of the CV splitting the angle.

At ride height, bolt it up, adjust the pinion until it is dead on and tack your brackets.

If you don't have your driveshaft, beg, or borrow one or mock one up using a CV and a chunk of tube to extend it. I've even used fronts and just tacked some crap together to get it dialed in before I welded up the brackets.

Put another way, I never put brackets on an axle without a driveshaft that lets me know precisely where the pinion needs to be. I tack them, but only well enough to be able to load the suspension and then I cut and move as needed.

That's actually a good point. I always say the output but really I set it 1-2 degrees below the driveshaft angle, which splits the CV as you said.

Bad terminology on my part.
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