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Unread 12-07-2013, 05:37 PM   #2431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
I believe that Gerald and the savvy crew is preparing for the King of the hammers competition so try and shoot him an email to see the availability of the skid. He's been really fast at getting back to me so give it a try.
Will do. Thank you.

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Unread 12-07-2013, 06:30 PM   #2432
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Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post
I plan on just running the center skid for now. Not the engine skid which requires the Savvy MML. Correct?
Correct. Just need anyones BL and MML to run our T-Case skid and cross members.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 06:48 PM   #2433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post

I plan on just running the center skid for now. Not the engine skid which requires the Savvy MML. Correct?
Yep but I don't have the engine skid either but figured that since I was at a point where I was going to do the mml anyways why not give myself the potential to easily run the engine skid later. Mine was an issue of money and yours may just be preference but I definitely am glad I went ahead and used the savvy MML instead of the jks I had originally planned. I really wouldn't want to have to redo that project.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 06:54 PM   #2434
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Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Yep but I don't have the engine skid either but figured that since I was at a point where I was going to do the mml anyways why not give myself the potential to easily run the engine skid later. Mine was an issue of money and yours may just be preference but I definitely am glad I went ahead and used the savvy MML instead of the jks I had originally planned. I really wouldn't want to have to redo that project.
My problem is that the JKS MML is already installed. So that being said, when the center skid is in the budget, I'll be tackling the Savvy MML then as well.

I'll knock out the Novak cable install at the same time I do the Under Armor.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 06:59 PM   #2435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaTJ View Post

My problem is that the JKS MML is already installed. So that being said, when the center skid is in the budget, I'll be tackling the Savvy MML then as well.

I'll knock out the Novak cable install at the same time I do the Under Armor.
Ah I see.. i had my jks mml still in the package when I decided to go savvy not on the jeep. I'm almost certain I would have left mine until I absolutely needed like you're doing if I already had the jks.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 07:08 PM   #2436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljcrawler05 View Post
Ah I see.. i had my jks mml still in the package when I decided to go savvy not on the jeep. I'm almost certain I would have left mine until I absolutely needed like you're doing if I already had the jks.
Like you're already saying…if you haven't installed the JKS pieces yet…get rid of it and install the Savvy MML.

My Jeep already has some home-made belly up skid but its heavy, has some sharp corners that snag and doesn't have the crossmember which allows you to drop the skid without supporting the transmission or transfer case.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 04:52 PM   #2437
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I am really close to pulling the trigger and getting the Savvy UA, but right now I am all stock with a 05 Rubicon SWB 6 spd. man. This would be my first modification. Reading some post I will have to get adjustable rear upper control arms. Is this true? What brand should I go for?
Also do I need to be concerned about front control arms? Is there anything else should know ahead of time?
My plan is to eventually get flat fenders and run 33"s then possibly add a 2.5"-3" lift and go with 35"s. This seems like it makes sense over getting a 4" lift. I like the idea of getting the added clearance and keeping my COG as low as possible. Good/ bad idea, any recommendations and/ or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Freddy
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Unread 01-19-2014, 05:21 PM   #2438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWRubi35 View Post
I am really close to pulling the trigger and getting the Savvy UA, but right now I am all stock with a 05 Rubicon SWB 6 spd. man. This would be my first modification. Reading some post I will have to get adjustable rear upper control arms. Is this true? What brand should I go for?
Also do I need to be concerned about front control arms? Is there anything else should know ahead of time?
My plan is to eventually get flat fenders and run 33"s then possibly add a 2.5"-3" lift and go with 35"s. This seems like it makes sense over getting a 4" lift. I like the idea of getting the added clearance and keeping my COG as low as possible. Good/ bad idea, any recommendations and/ or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Freddy
It's not a bad idea to stay a little low depending on where you are wheeling... at a minimum you are going to need to add a body lift and motor mount lift, if you are using Savvy's engine skid on the MUA then you have to use their motor mount lift, the skid bolts to it. You are going to need adjustable arms in the rear to set pinion angle and you might wind up needing a CV rear drive shaft if you get vibes. A cable shifter for the transfer case is a GREAT idea, the stock linkage isn't great and you will have to modify the mount if you want to retain it. I seem to remember someone on stock suspension having an issue with the front upper control arm hitting something, I think it was the passenger side upper but I could be wrong, you should try to find that out. It might not have been stock, might have been one of the 2" lift guys but its been a while. Other than that, with the Rubicon transfer case you'll need to dimple the tub slightly, not a big deal. A tummy tuck is fairly involved and affects a decent number of other parts so take your time. Oh, just remembered there is no provision for the Rubicon locker pumps so you are on your own. Lots of guys relocate them to the tray beneath the brake master cylinder, I just drilled 2 holes in the cross-member and mounted them on it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:59 AM   #2439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWRubi35 View Post
I am really close to pulling the trigger and getting the Savvy UA, but right now I am all stock with a 05 Rubicon SWB 6 spd. man. This would be my first modification. Reading some post I will have to get adjustable rear upper control arms. Is this true? What brand should I go for?
Also do I need to be concerned about front control arms? Is there anything else should know ahead of time?
My plan is to eventually get flat fenders and run 33"s then possibly add a 2.5"-3" lift and go with 35"s. This seems like it makes sense over getting a 4" lift. I like the idea of getting the added clearance and keeping my COG as low as possible. Good/ bad idea, any recommendations and/ or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Freddy
I have a 2006 LJ Rubicon with the auto trans and did the Savvy modular TT.
It is an awesome upgrade.
I have the OME 2.5" lift and 1.25 body. I high-lined it and am running 35's with no rubbing issues. You will need the cable shifter for sure. I also highly recommend you get the Savvy alum control arms. Go ahead and get all of them as you will be amazed how much better your jeep will ride. The only complaint I have about the Savvy Modular TT is the vibration at idle. Feels like a 84 diesel VW Rabbit :-)
I highly recommend the Novak cable shifter to anyone. Makes your Jeep shift smooth at butter!!
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:45 AM   #2440
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Originally Posted by church View Post
The only complaint I have about the Savvy Modular TT is the vibration at idle. Feels like a 84 diesel VW Rabbit :-)
I highly recommend the Novak cable shifter to anyone. Makes your Jeep shift smooth at butter!!
Church,
If you are running the Savvy MML, check to be sure you have clearance between the MML blocks and the engine-side mounting arms. I had an early set (way pre-modular) and the engine-side mounting arms hit the MML blocks, directly coupling the engine to the frame. I believe that they were modifying the newer blocks to avoid that, but it is worth a look and is not too hard to fix.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:49 AM   #2441
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Originally Posted by -JD- View Post
Church,
If you are running the Savvy MML, check to be sure you have clearance between the MML blocks and the engine-side mounting arms. I had an early set (way pre-modular) and the engine-side mounting arms hit the MML blocks, directly coupling the engine to the frame. I believe that they were modifying the newer blocks to avoid that, but it is worth a look and is not too hard to fix.
I'm currently running the JKS MML- I dont have the complete UA, just the modular one.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:00 AM   #2442
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Something is touching your tub, then. Even with the significantly stiffer Brown Dog rubber mounts and polyurethane body mounts, I don't have any perceivable or annoying idle vibrations. The isolation bushings used in the crossmember are Clevite rubber so this should not be an issue.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:11 AM   #2443
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Something is touching your tub, then. Even with the significantly stiffer Brown Dog rubber mounts and polyurethane body mounts, I don't have any perceivable or annoying idle vibrations. The isolation bushings used in the crossmember are Clevite rubber so this should not be an issue.
Tub has clearance around transmission and transfer case. Exhaust clears with no rubbing issues.
If I tach up to 800 to 1000 rpm it stops. Seems to be a lot worse with harptop on. Throwing it in neutral helps a little.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:13 AM   #2444
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Originally Posted by church View Post
Tub has clearance around transmission and transfer case. Exhaust clears with no rubbing issues.
If I tach up to 800 to 1000 rpm it stops. Seems to be a lot worse with harptop on. Throwing it in neutral helps a little.
Maybe the difference is your auto to my manual.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 03:14 PM   #2445
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I have the same idle issue with an auto transmission. Goes away after 1000 rpm
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aluminum , belly up , crossmember , high clearance , savvy , savvy under armor , t-case , t-case skid plate , transfer case , transfer case skid , under armor

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